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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i have a router table but the router is really stiff to raise up . i would like to know the best way to resolve this. do i make something to raise it up or do i take the prings of the router ...???. :icon_wink:
 

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Don't know what kind of router you have but taking the springs out sounds like a good plan to me.
I know access in a router table is usualy very limited. I have a PC 3.5 HP mounted in an Eagle RT and really need a shaper for what i have been doing. But I have the same problem except that the PC has a handy raise/lower jack screw.
I never thought of removing the springs tohough for when I need to move it more than a fractin of an inch. I thnk my springs are internal but still I bet it could be done and would work.
Try it out and let us know!:cowboy:
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks i'll give it a go taking springs off . there on the outside of the legs so shouldn't be too much of a problem. router make is PRo 2.0 h.p....:icon_wink:
 

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Hi guys,
Just on the subject of routers what would be some good stats to look for when buying a router(within a reasonable price range)
Looking to purchase one soon as my last one died(Ryobi).
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Just to let you know springs on router were internal just had to remove the cotter pins on base and the spring just popped out, put pin back in and works exellent slides up and down easy. there was only one spring in my router so made it easier, took me longer to take the router of my table than it did to take spring out....:thumbsup:. if need to ever put it back it's as easy as it was to take it out ...

talking about recommended router types i use a 2 hp (800 - 1600 watt) well it's a hitachi 1600 watt variable speed router for hand held work, and a 2000 watt PRO for my router table ..I don't know if they do this type in aussie but it's a great machine .the hitachi i have was about £250 uk pounds so maybe it is a bit pricey for what you need. Makita make a good machine but it depends what your using it for.. I would go for a 2 hp unit it's the standard size. You can buy less powerful machines (1 hp) but these are only for very light work and trimming . Most people I know use this size of machine . I can only give you views on routers I have used but all the other guys might add some different types. I would also try to get a variable speed router as it gives you more flexibility so you can adjust your speed to the size of bit and type of wood you are using ... Goodluck looking..:icon_wink:
 

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Porter Cable is the brand I prefer....Dewalt is similar in quality. The motor/brushes seem to determine router life, and a heavier router means more motor typically (weight of windings and case). I think 3 hp is a little overkill unless it will be on a router table for life, but that is just my opinion.
 

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routers?

Hi guys,
Just on the subject of routers what would be some good stats to look for when buying a router(within a reasonable price range)
Looking to purchase one soon as my last one died(Ryobi).
Well, that sorta depends on what you are going to be using it for...
freehand or table mounted? A very good router for just about anything
you would do is a Dewalt 616 or 618 3 base kit. These routers are easy to use, adjust, and switch form table use to handheld in a minutes time. The 616 is 1&3/4 hp the 618 is 2& 1/4 hp, they share
the same bases, all are interchangeable, use the same edge guide,
bit changing tools, collets and so on. I have the 616 and three bases
two fixed ones and a plunge base one of the fixed bases is in my router table, I just slide the motor out and drop it into the other fixed base
or plunge base as needed. The depth adjustment is real easy to use
on either one and I never had a minutes trouble with this router
and I highly recommend it. eezlock
 

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I use the DW621 plunge base router by Dewalt almost exclusively. I have 2 that are set up with matched tooling for rail & stile doors and 1 that is setup with a lock joint tool for drawer boxes. These are never changed. I also have 1 mounted in my table saw for occassional use with whatever tool that might be needed. These are all on lift out plates so they can be changed at will and used in either the router table or the table saw table. I also have a 621 for free hand work and a 625 for free hand work when a little more horsepower is required. I really like soft start and speed (rpm) sensing of these tools in additional to the ease of speed change. These are the machines that get my recommendation.
 
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