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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a Hitachi M12VC 2.25HP router that I think I want to use as a dedicated router in a router table. Are there are prebuilt router tables that won't break the bank or am I better off making my own?

If I make my own does anyone make a lift for this router?
 

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John
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I have a Hitachi M12VC 2.25HP router that I think I want to use as a dedicated router in a router table. Are there are prebuilt router tables that won't break the bank or am I better off making my own?

If I make my own does anyone make a lift for this router?
Hi - That's a nice little router but, IMO, not the most table friendly. The issue I have with table mounting it is if the fixed base is installed in the table, the motor must be rotated to adjust the bit depth. I don't think it will do above table bit changes either. I just use mine hand held and usually pull it out of the base to change bits because there is no shaft lock (two wrench system). A router raiser may work with the plunge base, I'm not sure.
This is arguably the best bang for the buck in router tables that I know of right now
http://www.grizzly.com/products/Router-Table-with-Stand/T10432

Most lifts are designed for the larger 3+ HP routers but some, like Jessum, Woodpecker, Incra and a few others offer adapter spacers for the smaller 3½" diameter motors.
The only lift I know of specifically designed for the small motor is the MLCS motorized lift.
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shop...?zoom_highlight=router+lift#routersize_anchor

Nice lift but spendy IMO.
There are also several plans for shop built lifts available.

There are also routers available in the <$100 range with built in lifts. Like this one:
http://www.sears.com/craftsman-12-a...p-00902768000P?prdNo=3&blockNo=3&blockType=G3
Good luck:smile:
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
If I were to keep the Hitachi for handheld routing what are some of the better routers to use to mount to a table?
 

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John
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If I were to keep the Hitachi for handheld routing what are some of the better routers to use to mount to a table?
That Craftsman I linked to has a built in lift that will adjust above the table... $80 for the fixed base. The plunge base on that router doesn't do above table so the fixed kit only would be what you want. Power is roughly the same as for the Hitachi. There are several other routers suitable but I don't know of any for less $$. Bosch 1617 is a good choice but just about 2X the cost. :smile:
 

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My theory for under table routers is to go with big power in case I ever want to turn big bits. I don't think many guys would complain that their table router has too much power.

There are some choices in routers in the 3+ HP range that have above table adjustment so you don't need to go to the expense of a lift. A few are the Milwaukee 5625-20, the Bosch 1619EVS and the Triton TRA001. Freud had one but from what I understand, they are out of the router business. There are probably more out there from other manufacturers.

I just bought a Triton TRA001 and installed it under my table. The adjustment and above table bit change is very nice but I haven't used it enough to justify an overall review yet. It (and the Milwaukee and Bosch) usually go for about $290-$300, less than many lifts for a big router.

Incidentally, I have one of the Craftsman routers like jschaben mentioned. I've had it for 2-3 years and it's a nice mid-size router. It might not hold up to production work, but for a hobbyist like me, it's great for hand-held use.

Bill
 

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bzguy
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Big routers are the best for tables, especially variable speed ones.
They allow you to make big things with the right bits that are normally made on a shaper.
As for access, I hinge my table to the base from the back side, attach a appropriate length "hinged" stick with one screw to hold it up.
Just lift and lock for easy bit change, height adjustment.
Cut a kerf in bottom of fence for dust to slide into.
 

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I use Milwaukee 5625-20 in 2 of my tables, a PC890 in another and a DW625 on my Woodrat. Both the Milwaukee and Porter Cable have above the table adjustment, but the Milwaukee require under-the-table latching. I don't use the feature on either as I prefer to eyeball at table level adjusting from my little mechanics seat. I have yet to feed the 5625 something it cannot chew, but the smaller PC can get bogged down with large bits. But I use it for smaller bits.
 

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John
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While I do agree that, in a table mount, bigger is generally better, I disagree that a tank router is a "must have" for table mounting. I run the Freud 3000 in my main table and a Freud 1700 in my portable table and can make raised panels, or much of anything else on either. The main difference is # of passes to get a quality cut. On soft woods, two passes on the large table but 3 on the smaller one does the job.
The other main difference is the cost of the router. Most 3+ HP are well north of $300 with the exception of the Hitachi M12 (not M12VC) which are just a little over $200.
Admittedly, having that big Freud in there is pretty sweet but in all honesty, I could do about everything I do now for a whole lot less money. If one is on a budget, I always recommend the 2HP range router. They are at least adequate in the table and much friendlier hand held from a weight perspective. JMHO:smile:

Edit - Freud 3000 is still available in the US, pretty spendy though
Amazon.com: Freud 3-1/4 Hp Variable Speed Plunge Router: Power & Hand Tools
 
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