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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just purchased a Porter Cable router on Facebook Marketplace and the seller included a Woodpecker router table plate specific for that Porter Cable router. Are plans easily available on line for constructing the router table top or do I need to contact Woodpecker. Just thinking they might not be helpful if I'm not buying. Thanks for your advice.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Woodworking is my hobby, I'm probably "intermediate" between "novice" and "advanced" in ability. I don't think I have the skills yet to build fine furniture, more like utility woodworking. I just completed a 13ft long work bench for my DeWalt miter saw, with some drawers and shelves and a charging station for my cordless tools. I was thinking of replacing my narrow outfeed table behind my Craftsman contractor style table saw with a bigger outfeed table that could now include a built in router table. I know most router tables are along the side of a table saw so they can use the same rip fence, but I would just have to remove the router table fence form the rear outfeed table when cutting longer boards on the table saw. Thanks John for your interest.
 

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Mike
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You dont need plans.
My table is simply two 3/4 inch pieces of MDF sandwiched together. I used contact cement to bond them.
Plastic laminate top and bottom and edge banded with 3/4 inch oak.
I used T-Track to mount the fence.
It's heavy, flat and has held up great for 20+ years with heavy use.
Simply make a template to cut the size of your insert.
 

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Termite
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You dont need plans.
My table is simply two 3/4 inch pieces of MDF sandwiched together. I used contact cement to bond them.
Plastic laminate top and bottom and edge banded with 3/4 inch oak.
I used T-Track to mount the fence.
It's heavy, flat and has held up great for 20+ years with heavy use.
Simply make a template to cut the size of your insert.
Some do...
 

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Check some videos on YouTube.

I've made 3 different ones exactly as Pretender described. IMO you can't go wrong. BUT -- don't assume MDF is flat. Be careful what you pick and store the sheet either vertically in a rack or flat on a table. Don't ever leave it (or plywood) leaning against anything or it will warp!!! Once its warped, its toast.

When you laminate the 2 layers of MDF, screw them together in a pattern 6" apart, then remove the screws after the glue is dry. Make sure everything is on a flat surface. I usually clamp them between cauls, then screw together.

The hardest part is routing for the insert. So far, I've never gotten one "perfect".
 

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many cabinet shops, and big box stores, have countertop remnants/cut offs. the curved front and backs can be cut away and you get a nice flat laminated surface. you can glue 2 together as suggested to get what you need.
 

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You dont need plans.
My table is simply two 3/4 inch pieces of MDF sandwiched together. I used contact cement to bond them.
pretender has a fancy smancy router table, my router table is one layer of particle board screwed to my workbench
but i agree, no plans needed on simple tables or fancy tables like reb's tri-power table
just do it!

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks to all for your advice. My concern for plans is hoping they will suggest the best way to cut out the insert. Like Dr Robert said, this is the hard part. Should I first cut out the hole with a jig saw or with a plunge router? Should the width of the rabbit around the edge match the radius of the corners of the insert? Do I make a wooden frame around the hole so the router can run up against it while cutting the rabbit or do I use a router base insert like I see on dovetail jigs? I have not found the right video on YouTube yet
 

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Termite
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I'm not sure what th radius of the corners are but you can normally make a picture frame tight to the insert and using a flush bit with bearing(1/2) and it usually works pretty good.
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Thanks to all for your advice. My concern for plans is hoping they will suggest the best way to cut out the insert. Like Dr Robert said, this is the hard part. Should I first cut out the hole with a jig saw or with a plunge router? Should the width of the rabbit around the edge match the radius of the corners of the insert? Do I make a wooden frame around the hole so the router can run up against it while cutting the rabbit or do I use a router base insert like I see on dovetail jigs? I have not found the right video on YouTube yet
Some of the router plate manufacturers have templates available for their router plates. Here is Woodpecker’s template and also templates with matching router bits.

 
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