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journeyman carpenter
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333 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
my router lift is in the extension of my ts. no cabinet, just hanging out there. the fence that came with the lift has a dust port for upper collection. but that only works within a small range near the bit. i am wondering what people have done to improve this, and what they have done for the underside. oh and sorry if this has been covered. i need to get better at using the search function..

ok, what i should have said is that i plan on making this myself. i just want to see what some of the folks here have done themselves and get some ideas or info from experience.
 

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where's my table saw?
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28,163 Posts
These are pretty common

I don't own/use one cause I think the $80.00 price is too steep. I think one could be made from a plastic bin/tray or a waste basket with a 4" hole for the DC. I don't think the adjustable air inlet is real necessary unless it's seal up tight against the table. You don't want to overheat the router for sure. This is for wooden tables that you can screw right into. Mine is cast iron so it will be mounted a little different.

http://www.ptreeusa.com/routerTables.htm#3593
Router Table Downdraft Box




Dramatically change your router tables ability to collect dust while
making your cuts. Our Router Table Downdraft Box attaches directly
underneath your router table top and surrounds the entire router
itself, giving you more dust collection control than on a typical router
table dust collection unit. Measuring 13" x 10" x 14" deep the downdraft box is designed to house most types of routers and router lifts. Made out of stamped steel, the box is easy to assemble and has a large access door panel allowing for easy access to make adjustments to your router when necessary. The unit has a drop-off hole cut into the bottom for attaching the 4" dustport (included) and hose (not included) to the box.rice
Quantity
3593
Router Table Downdraft Box
$79.99

 
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The Young Blood
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550 Posts
Make one out of wood or buy a hand riveting tool and make one from aluminum. Then just buy a Jointer dust hood connection and mount it to the bottom of the box. Would be easier if it was out of wood, but would look nicer if it was out of the aluminum or steel. Then again, up to you.
 

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journeyman carpenter
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333 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
right. i get that i can make one. that is my plan. i just wanted to see some of the homemade ones and get some ideas.:thumbsup:
 

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The Young Blood
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550 Posts
Hey man,
I got yah, unfortunately I do not have any homemade ones for you to look at. "woodnthings" posted a good pictures above, I would end up going from that.
 

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Thumb Nailer
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2,454 Posts
This is going to sound funny, but I am working on taking an old cat litter tub, the kind that #40 cat litter comes in, and building a bracket that I can just set up some turn knobs to hold to the bottom of the table, then attach a 4" dust port near the bottom corner. I have a 4" port on my fence as well, so I should be okay there... Not pretty, but certainly functional.
 

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journeyman carpenter
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333 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
that's what i'm talkin about. good idea dbhost. easy on/off is what i am after.
 

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where's my table saw?
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28,163 Posts
Yup!

That's what I liked about this one I posted above:

Instead of enclosing the whole motor/lift this uses a small cup surrounding the cutter made of flexible silicone. I truly believe that a point source collection is better than a cabinet or housing type.....I just think it's more effective. No proof except the newer table saws use blade shrouds rather than cabinet dust collection, my RAS use the blade guard as a major dust collection source, and my overarm blade guard gets a lot of dust off the blade. The high velocity of the Shop vac will "reach out" and get dust from several inches away.

A modified vac nozzle might do just as well under the router table..I donno, but I'll be tryin' something soon. A lift solves the bit changing issue with bent wrenches it's no longer a PITA.

The router table should be considered as whole system rather than a bunch of separate issues solved one by one, but no company thus far seems to have done that. You got the routers, the lifts, the tables , the fences, the dust collection, the bit changing wrenches etc..etc.. so it falls upon some clever wwr's to come up with the whole package that works best for them. I think I'm pretty close. Then there's the idea of having more than one router table set up to minimize bit changes and setups......:eek: bill
 

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Really underground garage
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2,552 Posts
Our router table is built on a 3 sided cabmet.The front is open and I store 2 biscuit cutters and a laminate trimmer,wrenches and what-not......moving on.......The 3x5 steel angle fence accepts 1/4" luan replaceable inserts at point of cut.The "dust collection" consists of a sheet metal enclosure that sits on the backside of fence and is runnin at a 45*,upward angle.It accepts a std shop vac hose,we don't use it that much(shapers).

Point of above diatribe is that theres NEVER any dust in/on the upper shelf under router.Its because we're getting enough,upward and outward air flow that it just isn't an issue whatsoever.And does a fine e-vac job in general.Routers runnin upside down suffer from heat issues,we run a shop-air line to ours when ever it gets used for more than onesy twosy.This is from under and again,pointing up @ 45*.It cools and marginally helps with evac.

Enclosing the motor as has been pointed out will make adj a problem.Heck our whole table pivots on back to allow full view of router and can't remember the last time it was up?Just reach under loosen the big Milwaukees thumbscrew and jerk the POS out,slap it on the top and change bits.Look,I'm all about sheet metal...eat it for breakfast....love it,give me more.But theres no enclosure on ours,we WANT the updraft.BW
 

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journeyman carpenter
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333 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
when i can use the dust collection from the top it does work fine. but like i said mine only works within a close proximity to the bit. when making dado's it is useless and the dust builds up near the bit. this is what i am trying to solve.

changing the bits is easily done from the top on my setup. especially since i added the collet extension.

i like the second system you posted woodnthings. forget the box and just get the suction near the cut.
 
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