Woodworking Talk banner
1 - 13 of 13 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
930 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Finally took some time over the long weekend to start my new router table. I do a lot of template work as well as other router table tasks daily so having multiple tables is nice however I decided to consolidate 3 router tables (Jessem lift with PC 7518, Rockler table with PC 890, shop made portable table with Bosch Colt palm router) into 1 very flexible router table to save some room. To quickly change between tasks I am using 3 PC 890 motors in the Porter Cable base with above table locking/unlocking/height adjustment capabilities (forgot to drill the holes for that so I'll have to take it apart again!) along with "quick change" inserts I made from UHMW plastic. One motor will have the spiral flush trim bit for template work, one will have a 1/8" roundover bit that I use almost daily and the 3rd will be used for other bits when needed so I don't have to remove the 1/8" or spiral bit. Also, you'll notice there is no miter gauge slot as in over 20 years of woodworking I have yet to find a use for it other than holding feather boards ( I use "Board Buddies" or a long feather board clamped to the front of the table and I use a sled for narrow end grain work). In my next installment (hopefully next weekend) I will show the modified Jessem stand along with the under table dust collection set up. My main goals were..

1. solid/flat table with direct router mounting (I originally planned to use 3 separate plates with routers attached for quick change but this plan worked out better and I didn't have to buy 3 plates!)

2. quick/easy change of motors/inserts for different bits/tasks

3. easily converted fence for different tasks

4, excellent dust collection above and below the table

5. use materials I already had

With these goals in mind I started by laminating 2 pieces of 12mm multi ply birch together and stacked about 250 lbs of MDF on top to keep it flat. After curing over night I covered the top with some white laminate and treated the edge with 1" plastic T molding.







I made a template from 3/4" MDF sized to the removable insert and drilled a hole a bit larger than the biggest bit I would use. I centered it on the top using a jig made of 1/2" MDF clamped to the table so I could easily remove the block for the next step and enlarged the pilot hole with a template bit. After removing the block from the jig I routed the square recess a little deeper than the thickness of the insert leaving about 3/16" of material on the bottom for leveling screw platforms.









I made several different size hole inserts from 3/4" UHMW plastic with a 1 3/8" counter bore to clear the collett and tapped 1/4"-20 threads directly into the blocks for 1/4" leveling set screws (took the idea from how table saw inserts are made)






With the PC 890 motor/base installed you can see that even with a 1" thick top the bit comes up high enough to change from the top however since I'll be switching motors more than changing bits I don't think this feature will find much use.



This is the basic fence base that will be used for free hand template work (I will be adding a plexi guard) and I plan to drill mounting holes so I can quickly install the Peach Tree Router Table Uni-T fence sections as seen below when needed.
http://www.ptreeusa.com/routertableFence.htm
With the slots in the fence and 2 sets of holes drilled for the cam clamp bolts I have about 7" of travel from the center of the bit which is more than enough for what I do. Also, the 4" hole seen inside the fence opening leads to the under table dust collection and my next installment will show more detail on that.





Stay tuned for the dust collection and Jessem stand modifications coming next week if all goes well!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,339 Posts
Looking great Marv!

Thanks for all the detailed commentary and clear photos.

Subscribed!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Marv said:
Finally took some time over the long weekend to start my new router table. I do a lot of template work as well as other router table tasks daily so having multiple tables is nice however I decided to consolidate 3 router tables (Jessem lift with PC 7518, Rockler table with PC 890, shop made portable table with Bosch Colt palm router) into 1 very flexible router table to save some room. To quickly change between tasks I am using 3 PC 890 motors in the Porter Cable base with above table locking/unlocking/height adjustment capabilities (forgot to drill the holes for that so I'll have to take it apart again!) along with "quick change" inserts I made from UHMW plastic. One motor will have the spiral flush trim bit for template work, one will have a 1/8" roundover bit that I use almost daily and the 3rd will be used for other bits when needed so I don't have to remove the 1/8" or spiral bit. Also, you'll notice there is no miter gauge slot as in over 20 years of woodworking I have yet to find a use for it other than holding feather boards ( I use "Board Buddies" or a long feather board clamped to the front of the table and I use a sled for narrow end grain work). In my next installment (hopefully next weekend) I will show the modified Jessem stand along with the under table dust collection set up. My main goals were..

1. solid/flat table with direct router mounting (I originally planned to use 3 separate plates with routers attached for quick change but this plan worked out better and I didn't have to buy 3 plates!)

2. quick/easy change of motors/inserts for different bits/tasks

3. easily converted fence for different tasks

4, excellent dust collection above and below the table

5. use materials I already had

With these goals in mind I started by laminating 2 pieces of 12mm multi ply birch together and stacked about 250 lbs of MDF on top to keep it flat. After curing over night I covered the top with some white laminate and treated the edge with 1" plastic T molding.

http://s29.photobucket.com/user/MrM...Build/PART_1378164428116_zpsf165c3f5.jpg.html

http://s29.photobucket.com/user/MrM...Build/PART_1378164380307_zps57101df6.jpg.html

http://s29.photobucket.com/user/MrM...Build/PART_1378162897785_zps92f41d09.jpg.html

I made a template from 3/4" MDF sized to the removable insert and drilled a hole a bit larger than the biggest bit I would use. I centered it on the top using a jig made of 1/2" MDF clamped to the table so I could easily remove the block for the next step and enlarged the pilot hole with a template bit. After removing the block from the jig I routed the square recess a little deeper than the thickness of the insert leaving about 3/16" of material on the bottom for leveling screw platforms.

http://s29.photobucket.com/user/MrM...Build/PART_1378164228018_zpsa512dfdd.jpg.html

http://s29.photobucket.com/user/MrM...Build/PART_1378164321176_zpsbd705797.jpg.html

http://s29.photobucket.com/user/MrM...Build/PART_1378164143457_zpseb5eece1.jpg.html

http://s29.photobucket.com/user/MrM...Build/PART_1378164012901_zps1a2bc2d0.jpg.html

I made several different size hole inserts from 3/4" UHMW plastic with a 1 3/8" counter bore to clear the collett and tapped 1/4"-20 threads directly into the blocks for 1/4" leveling set screws (took the idea from how table saw inserts are made)

http://s29.photobucket.com/user/MrM...Build/PART_1378163566103_zps3813d916.jpg.html

http://s29.photobucket.com/user/MrM...Build/PART_1378163565125_zps78e5fd6b.jpg.html

With the PC 890 motor/base installed you can see that even with a 1" thick top the bit comes up high enough to change from the top however since I'll be switching motors more than changing bits I don't think this feature will find much use.

http://s29.photobucket.com/user/MrM...Build/PART_1378167335962_zps4c81aa63.jpg.html

This is the basic fence base that will be used for free hand template work (I will be adding a plexi guard) and I plan to drill mounting holes so I can quickly install the Peach Tree Router Table Uni-T fence sections as seen below when needed.
http://www.ptreeusa.com/routertableFence.htm
With the slots in the fence and 2 sets of holes drilled for the cam clamp bolts I have about 7" of travel from the center of the bit which is more than enough for what I do. Also, the 4" hole seen inside the fence opening leads to the under table dust collection and my next installment will show more detail on that.

http://s29.photobucket.com/user/MrM...Build/PART_1378162896224_zpsa38b1dcd.jpg.html

http://s29.photobucket.com/user/MrMarv/media/Router Table Build/1378162544_zpsc9acc1fd.jpg.html

Stay tuned for the dust collection and Jessem stand modifications coming next week if all goes well!
Nice!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
930 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Spent a little time this evening pretty much finishing everything up....


The bit guard from Hartville Tool came with knobs and threaded inserts making for a simple install and it can easily be swapped over to the Uni-T fence when needed.



For the under table dust collection I am using a 4x4x2 1/2" Y along with a Porter cable GripVac router base that has through the handle dust collection. The suction is not that great being choked down to 1" at the port however the plastic shield captures dust under the bit so it easily gets pulled out making this setup nearly dust free.





Had a change in plans and decided to mount this table in the bench where the Rockler table was instead of using the Jessem stand (I re-purposed the stand to the planer so I could easier park it between my table saw and dust collector) however I'm not sure I like the change in switch location so I may move that back under the table. BTW, this used to be part of my radial saw/miter station however I ditched both of those as well and cut the cabinets down a few inches when I originally added the Rockler table.





All in all everything worked out pretty well however I may end up getting a cast iron router table extension for the table saw and put the lift there.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
930 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks Al! My next project is actually going to be a panel saw using some of your ideas and since I got rid of the radial arm saw ;) I plan to add a midway fence for breaking down long material without having to bend over.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Al B Thayer

·
Wood Snob
Joined
·
5,963 Posts
Marv said:
Thanks Al! My next project is actually going to be a panel saw using some of your ideas and since I got rid of the radial arm saw ;) I plan to add a midway fence for breaking down long material without having to bend over.
Oh the mid fence is on my list too. Another add on I'm dreaming up is a repeat cut stop for ripping.

Al

Friends don't let friends use stamped metal tools sold at clothing stores.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
930 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I've been using the table for a while now and find that it is much quieter than the Rockler with aluminum insert sitting on leveling screws as well as nearly dust free. I did not realize the shroud for the base dust collection has a hole just large enough for the collett to fit through so I will have to change larger bits from above the table. I also again forgot to drill the holes for the above table adjustment knob while I had it apart however everything is pretty easy to access under the table so that shouldn't be an issue.

BTW, someone asked how I leveled the router table to the cabinet tops and what the strip of wood against the back wall underneath was so I figured I would post the answer here as well in case anyone else was interested. During my shop redesign I was constantly moving cabinets around and would have to level them each time with shims on my seriously out of level floor. In order to make things quicker/easier to level I fastened a 4" high cleat around the perimeter, removed all the cabinet bases and attached some simple feet with threaded levelers near the front. To level the router table precisely I attached a couple of cleats to the cabinet sides and used lag screws near each corner as "levelers". With the aid of a long straight edge across the top I adjusted the lag screws and once leveled in all directions I just bolted the apron to the cabinet sides (I'll get a picture underneath as soon as I get a chance)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
930 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Made a little modification to the height adjustment knob by replacing it with a crank handle from an old Craftsman table saw. Makes raising/lowering the bit much quicker however I am going to cut a few inches off of the shaft since it's a little wobbly being that long.





[/QUOTE]
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
930 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Freehand Router Bit Guard with dust collection..

I do a lot of template work almost daily so I made this for my other router table loosely based on a plan from ShopNotes/Woodsmith. Dust collection is excellent and the rounded corners can be used as a fulcrum point for starting the workpiece into the bit..



 
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top