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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am in the process of building a router table. While installing the plate insert, I messed up and didn't get the insert perfectly parallel to the table edge. It is not off by much, only about a 1/16th of an inch. My question is, should I try to correct it or just leave it and make sure the miter slot and t- track for the fence are parallel to the table?
 

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I am in the process of building a router table. While installing the plate insert, I messed up and didn't get the insert perfectly parallel to the table edge. It is not off by much, only about a 1/16th of an inch. My question is, should I try to correct it or just leave it and make sure the miter slot and t- track for the fence are parallel to the table?
Not a problem for the plate insert to be out of parallel.

If you make a mitre slot it needs to be parallel to the fence. It may not need to be parallel to the table, but it will look better if the table edge is parallel to the mitre slot.

I have a mitre slot in my router table and I never use it. I ended up making a special piece of wood as a removeable filler in the slot. I use the router table for clamping and sometimes the piece wanted to go into the slot.
 

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Yeah, that's a non-problem...won't matter a bit.
 

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John
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I am in the process of building a router table. While installing the plate insert, I messed up and didn't get the insert perfectly parallel to the table edge. It is not off by much, only about a 1/16th of an inch. My question is, should I try to correct it or just leave it and make sure the miter slot and t- track for the fence are parallel to the table?
In reality, on a router table, nothing really has to be parallel to anything else with one exception. Remember that the bit is spinning around a vertical axis as opposed to a table saw where the blade is spinning around a horizontal axis. The exception is when using the miter slot in conjunction with the fence, those must be parallel. Since the fence is the adjustable component, it would be adjusted to the miter track, not the table edge. The parallel thing is primarily for aesthetics and, in the case of your router plate, you are likely the only one who will ever notice.:smile:
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks everyone for the advice. I thought it would be ok, but wasn't sure. I will post some pictures soon.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Here is what I have done so far. The top is 1 1/2 inch thick MDF with 3/4 inch oak banding. I am debating on whether or not to paint or polyurethane the top. Then it just a matter of installing the miter channel and t-track, and putting doors or drawers for the rest of the compartments. Overall size of the top is 43 1/2 by 29. What do you guys think about finishing the top?

ForumRunner_20130609_160125.jpg



ForumRunner_20130609_160148.jpg
 

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John
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Nice table, I really like the size.
One tip on the miter slot, try to keep the centerline of the slot less than 6" from the bit centerline. If you get over 6" away any of the commercial jigs you may get interested in (box joint jig, featherboards, etc) may not be close enough to work.
Urethane and wax would work fine. On MDF I would even be tempted to use several coats of boiled linseed oil. Leaves a very hard, durable and slick surface but does take awhile to cure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks for the tip on the position of the miter slot, I think I will use polyurethane on the top, then as you suggested a layer of paste wax. I also might paint the cabinet.
Right now I am just using a porter cable 690. I also have a craftsman 320.17542, but it won't fit the insert plate. Eventually I will upgrade both the router and plate, but I have too many other things on my plate right now.
 

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DRTYBYRD
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Thanks for the tip on the position of the miter slot, I think I will use polyurethane on the top, then as you suggested a layer of paste wax. I also might paint the cabinet.
Right now I am just using a porter cable 690. I also have a craftsman 320.17542, but it won't fit the insert plate. Eventually I will upgrade both the router and plate, but I have too many other things on my plate right now.
What kind of insert plate are you using? Can you drill holes for the craftsman? That's what I had to do for mine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
The plate is a phenolic Pinnacle from Woodcraft. I could drill it, but the PC 690 will work fine in it for a while anyways. I am sure I will eventually get a lift plate or a router that can be adjusted from above the table. For now I will just change height and bits the slow way.
 

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John
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The plate is a phenolic Pinnacle from Woodcraft. I could drill it, but the PC 690 will work fine in it for a while anyways. I am sure I will eventually get a lift plate or a router that can be adjusted from above the table. For now I will just change height and bits the slow way.

Not to confuse the issue but here is a router that adjusts from above the table at about half the price of the lift alone:yes:

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-12-a...p-00927683000P?prdNo=2&blockNo=2&blockType=G2
 
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