[minuteman62-64]

Any special type of screw? I'll be using the New Yankee Workshop method of installing screws from the bottom of the table to bear against the bottom of the Rockler plate. The screws will be going through mdf. Would a coarse thread machine screw, with the threaded end ground smooth, work? Or a wood screw with threaded end ground smooth? Other?

I've also seen posts where threaded inserts were put into the table and used for the leveling screws. Or, drilling/tapping holes in the router plate and inserting screws from the top. Pros and cons?

In keeping with making my table as much as possible with stuff on-hand, I'd like to avoid purchasing the Rockler kit.

 

[bladeburner]

I have one table with the screws drilled, tapped and adjusted from above onto small epoxied magnets. Only downside is the wrench holes get packed with dust, but a compass point and some hot breath will clear them out. On another table, I went with Rockler's package (1/2 price sale!). It uses those MDF screws, name escapes me, and they have a tendency to back out. If I hadn't already installed those inserts, I'd use the system I used on another plate. On that one, I used 10-24 thumb screws in inserts. That thread seems fine enough to resist backing out. Or the threads may just be rusted by now :laughing:

 

[jschaben]

Any special type of screw? I'll be using the New Yankee Workshop method of installing screws from the bottom of the table to bear against the bottom of the Rockler plate. The screws will be going through mdf. Would a coarse thread machine screw, with the threaded end ground smooth, work? Or a wood screw with threaded end ground smooth? Other?

I've also seen posts where threaded inserts were put into the table and used for the leveling screws. Or, drilling/tapping holes in the router plate and inserting screws from the top. Pros and cons?

In keeping with making my table as much as possible with stuff on-hand, I'd like to avoid purchasing the Rockler kit.

I've always used the system where hex socket set screws came down through the plate. On MDF tops though I found the vibrations enough for the setscrews to want to dig into the MDF so I put #6 flathead SPAX screws into the MDF below the set screws and that seems to be working. I used blue Loctite on the setscrews and that keeps them from moving and I haven't had to reset anything in quite awhile.:smile:

 

[rcp612]

For my table, also MDF, I installed threaded inserts through the ledge for the plate, and used 1/4" eye bolts and wing nuts.
Using eye bolts gives me a "handle" under the table and wing nuts provide a "lock" after adjustment. I haven't had any issues with the bolt end causing any damage to the plate since the plate doesn't move.

 

[ryan50hrl]

For my table, also MDF, I installed threaded inserts through the ledge for the plate, and used 1/4" eye bolts and wing nuts.
Using eye bolts gives me a "handle" under the table and wing nuts provide a "lock" after adjustment. I haven't had any issues with the bolt end causing any damage to the plate since the plate doesn't move.

That's a good idea, have you found yourself needing to adjust them? I've been planing mine out and was just planning on loc-Titing the set screws in thinking I wouldn't need to adjust them....now I'm wondering if that's a good idea.

 

[rcp612]

That's a good idea, have you found yourself needing to adjust them?

No, not since first building the table about 5 years ago.
But, if the need arises,,,,,,,,,,, :brows:

 

[FrankC]

That's a good idea, have you found yourself needing to adjust them? I've been planing mine out and was just planning on loc-Titing the set screws in thinking I wouldn't need to adjust them....now I'm wondering if that's a good idea.

Use the blue or purple, it will hold them yet gives you the option to adjust them if you have to.

 

[minuteman62-64]

I liked the eye-bolt/wing nut idea, but don't have enough room under the folding legs of my table. I decided to just drill 5/32" holes through the mdf and screw 10-32 hex head machine screws into the holes. I can adjust the hex head screws with a ratchet (so I don't have to continually try and remember which way is up or down).

After I threaded the holes by inserting the machine screws I removed the screws and saturated the holes with CPES (a thin, penetrating epoxy) to harden the mdf. The screws are nice and tight and I think the hardened mdf will hold up well.

If I get future wear I can always go up a diameter and re-drill or use thread inserts and Locktite. For now it looks like I have a working system.

Thanks for the input, guys.