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Hey folks I have finally decided to build a new router table including a lift (do not have one now)...
There are so many options, Kreg, Woodpecker, Jesssum, Rockler, etc,. etc. Looks like $300 is the price point on most..
recommendations?
 

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This months Fine Woodworking has a comparison of router lifts.

The give best overall to the Excalibur 40-125 street price $370 and best value to the Jessem Rout-R-Lift IIV street price $180.

I have the Woodpeckers PRL-V2 which I like.

If I were starting out without a router, I would consider one of the routers which can have the height adjusted from its base and avoid the expense of the router lift.
 

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Pain in the A$$
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I've been looking in to his lately myself. For what's its worth, I called the Jess-em folks the other day as I really like their units. I asked about the difference between the Rout-R-Lift II & the Mast-R-Lift II. The tech rep said that for my purposes (occasional use hobbiest) they would recommend the less expensive Rout-R-Lift II. It has most same qualities, but the underneath is just not quite as beefy. And since I use a standard size router & not the huge 3.25hp or bigger units, it would more than meet my needs.

Mark
 

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Sawdust Wrangler
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Hey folks I have finally decided to build a new router table including a lift (do not have one now)...
There are so many options, Kreg, Woodpecker, Jesssum, Rockler, etc,. etc. Looks like $300 is the price point on most..
recommendations?
I have a woodpeckers custom top and the woodpeckers V2 with the sidewinder kit.

here some places you may or may not have looked:

http://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-tools/reviews/routers-router-accessories/router-lifts/

http://www.just-wood-routers.com/router-lifts/index-4-router-lifts.html

http://americanwoodworker.com/blogs/tools/archive/2008/09/21/router-lifts.aspx

hope some of this helps
 

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For under $300 you can get yourself a Triton TRA001 router (or similar table-ready router)and forget the lift. Unless you have a PC7518 laying around that you really want to use, the router lift can be just one extra, expensive part.

I used to have a PC 7518 under my table and went to a Triton as it was less expensive than buying a lift. It has really nice features, being designed for the table, and I have no regrets. It also locks the spindle automatically for bit changes when you raise it all the way up, something a lift won't do.
Triton TRA001 3-1/4 HP Dual Mode Precision Plunge Router - Amazon.com

Bill
 

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I've 2 Woodpeckers lifts, and find their quality and Woodpecker's CS impeccable. That said, I think if I was buildiong a table today, I'd skip the lift. With so many of today's routers (my fav is the Milwaukee 5625) having built in table capabilities I think I'd just get one of them and a good plate. In my case, I had the lift first, so I put my 5625 in it. But I'm sure i would have been just as happy with the Milwaukee built in lift.
 

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I have an old PC Speedtronic 5182 router motor I want to make a lift for. It's a very heavy motor! I read it's 3 1/2# heavier than the newer 7518.
 

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Getting a new router with an adjustable height base would be my recommendation as well. A new lift costs as much as one of those new routers and you end up with a bonus router.
 

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Getting a new router with an adjustable height base would be my recommendation as well. A new lift costs as much as one of those new routers and you end up with a bonus router.
That's what got me hooked on above adj. and change routers. Only problem, was I bought a pos, Ryobi 1700 router, and have had to get repair parts 5 or 6 times.
Now thinking of mounting a big PC router motor, and of course it needs a lift.
The one AL built, looks like a winner.
 

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where's my table saw?
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hold on there bud

That's what got me hooked on above adj. and change routers. Only problem, was I bought a pos, Ryobi 1700 router, and have had to get repair parts 5 or 6 times.
Now thinking of mounting a big PC router motor, and of course it needs a lift.
The one AL built, looks like a winner.
If you get the Milwaukee 5625-20 you won't need a lift because it has base accessible height controls. Here's a good review:

http://www.newwoodworker.com/reviews/milw562520rvu.html

You will NOT find a better price than this: http://www.grizzly.com/products/3-1-2-HP-Router/H7022?gcsct=0ChMIwMapwLbdugIVAmvmCh2JFAAAEAE

By the way, I own one and it's a powerhouse and smooooth. I also have a few PC 7518 's in Jess Em Master Lift II in tables and you can't ask for a nicer lift, if that's the way you want to go.
 

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I have a Precision Router Lift V2 on a bench dog cast iron table it is the smoothest and one the nicest pieces of equipment I own.

Zero complaints about the lift and only one about the table.
 

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John
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One option that hasn't been mentioned is the Router Raizer
http://www.routertechnologies.com/routerraizer.htm

Runs a little under $100 most places and is, essentially, a package of hardware that will convert most routers (consult application tables) to above table adjustments.

I run a Freud 3000 which has above table adjustments, bit changes, etc. and the mechanism for most routers with built in adjustment above table adjustment is similar. The major shortfall, if you can call it that, is that most lifts provide a height lock. On my 3000 I need to reach under the table and engage the plunge lock to achieve height locking. On fixed base routers, you still need to reach under to lock the motor. On my Freud, engaging the plunge lock usually results in a shift in height of about .005 to .007". That's normally to small to be concerned about but I do have a Wixey digital height gauge for when I need to lock it in exactly.
While a lot of routers have built in lifts; Triton, Milwaukee, some Porter Cable, Freud and even some Craftsman, the Triton, IMO, has the edge in dust collection as the entire collet area is surrounded with a vacuum chamber.
Good Luck, whichever way you go.:smile:
 

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Chris Curl said:
Al, can you post a pic or 2 of they guts underneath? Thanks


image-132451598.jpg

I dado cut one long board with my saw blade until the plywood fit snug. Then cut it in half to make to sides. Dado is just deep enough so the triangular support sides slide against too. Double bearing so to speak. Epoxy one of those long connector nuts in the wood and use an all thread with 16 threads per inch.

image-3707432684.jpg

Sorry, I didn't mean to Hijack the thread. Those store bought units are really nice. Anyone wanting info on the shop built lift can google it or PM me anytime.

Easy build. Works very well.
Al

Nails only hold themselves.
 

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