Router Box Joint Jig

51339 Views 23 Replies 14 Participants Last post by edp, Aug 5, 2007

Norrud

Discussion Starter · Feb 27, 2007

I have been trying to cut box joints using my router with a jig sled a found in a router handbook I have. The problem with the setup is the sled uses a set of fences to lock it in place and eveything has to be perfect. I got it to work cutting perfect box joints. I was wondering if anybody has a set of plans that would be easier to use. Would doing it with a Dado Blade on my tablesaw be easier. I don't have a Dado Blade but that could be my next purchase.

Thanks
Ron

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TexasTimbers

· #2 · Feb 27, 2007

Norrud said:
. . . . . . . Would doing it with a Dado Blade on my tablesaw be easier. . . . . .

IMHO 100% definately. I made a jig for that very thing cutting box joints on my TS. Don't know if I still have it, but what it entails is making a key which each successive joint slides on and so the spacing is perfect.
Yes you can do it with a router table too but I like the cut a TS gives better for this purpose and it is faster because with a RT you have to go a little slower to prevent tearfout on softer woods.

Hubert

· #3 · Feb 27, 2007 (Edited)

Got the designs for this from SHOPNOTES I think #47. Has micro adjust knobs for width of finger and width of space between the fingers. The author says will work on both Table Saw and Router Table. :thumbsup::thumbsup: You can adust all the way up to 3/4" but he says not to go bigger than 1/2 on a router.

Oh and See Texas. I make lots of jigs and stuff but don't make anything with them. :laughing::laughing::laughing: Actually I built this specifically to make the memory boxes for the hospital.

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Norrud

Discussion Starter · #4 · Feb 28, 2007

Hubert,

That looks like one cool jig. I don't get Shopnotes (although had a sample copy sent to me once) maybe I should. I like the idea of a Micro Adjustment. I will have to hunt down a reasonable priced Dado Blade I guess. Any suggestions?

Ron

brewmebaby

· #5 · Feb 28, 2007

as far as a dado set, i have a Freud stacked dado set (not the dial-a-width) that i bought about 5 - 6 yrs ago and it gives super smooth results. i think i paid about $100 for it then

as a side note, do you do much work in the fairfield glade community?, my dad retired from the auto industry up here (Detroit) and moved there about a year ago.....small world

Norrud

Discussion Starter · #6 · Mar 1, 2007

brewmebaby said:
as a side note, do you do much work in the fairfield glade community?, my dad retired from the auto industry up here (Detroit) and moved there about a year ago.....small world

Yes I do work in Fairfield Glade. We build houses there.

Hubert

· #7 · Mar 1, 2007 (Edited)

Found plans for a "Box Joint Jig" it is from shopnotes / woodsmith.

http://plansnow.com/boxjoint.html

:thumbsup::thumbsup:

daryl in nanoose

· #8 · Mar 1, 2007

I too tried using a router table but I found it a hassle so I am going to be building a box joint jig like above http://plansnow.com/boxjoint.html and use my new Freud stack dado blade . Ever since I bought this set (129.00 on sale) I don't know how I ever lived without it. It cuts nice and smooth, flat bottom and the sizing chart it came with is a real help. By the way Freud puts out a set pacifically designed for box joints http://www.freudtools.com/woodworkers/rep/sawblades/Dadoes/html/Dadoes_1.html

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Hubert

· #9 · Mar 2, 2007

One thing I do that was not in the picture is I use a SQUARE piece of wood to hold the wood I am cutting straight. That way the fingers are straight. :thumbsup:

Norrud

Discussion Starter · #10 · Mar 2, 2007

The more I think I am going with the Dado from Freud. Been putting off because of the price -vs- how much use it will get. Now for a bigger question....I have a Craftsman (don't poke fun) 4.4hp Professional Job Site Table Saw. It is the one that has the folding stand. The manual says that it will take up to 8" Dado and not to exceed 13/16".

Can I use a 6" or 8" Dado Blade on this saw and what pro's and con's are there?

daryl in nanoose

· #11 · Mar 2, 2007

You need to wind your blade up all the way and measure the distance between the center of the arbor and the top of the table to see how much room you have as far as the 6" Dado goes. I held out for a 8" so i had the best of both worlds.

BULLHART

· #12 · Mar 3, 2007

I use my PC dovetail jig.

Norrud

Discussion Starter · #13 · Mar 13, 2007

Well I built the Jig from Plans Now. The Micro adjustment part is a work of art. Someone really put some thought into this. I haven't tried it out yet...still shoping for a Dado Blade.

Can we here some thoughts about other Dado Blades besides Freud. I would like the Cadillac but probaly will have to buy the Chevy.

Joe Lyddon

· #14 · Mar 13, 2007

Norrud said:
I have been trying to cut box joints using my router with a jig sled a found in a router handbook I have. The problem with the setup is the sled uses a set of fences to lock it in place and eveything has to be perfect. I got it to work cutting perfect box joints. I was wondering if anybody has a set of plans that would be easier to use. Would doing it with a Dado Blade on my tablesaw be easier. I don't have a Dado Blade but that could be my next purchase.

Thanks
Ron

Hi Ron,

Here is my first attempt at box joints...
http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/showgallery.php?cat=842

This thread helped me a lot...
http://www.routerforums.com/project...ark-box-jig-non-oak-park-table.html#post39513

What you see in my photos is every cut I made... including all test cuts... My test cuts went toward making what you see...

Hope it helps y'all...

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PageMasterRWS

· #15 · Mar 13, 2007

Your question about Dado Blades

Hi!
I think to best answer your question about dado blades I can provide you with this link. http://www.toologics.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=11

It has most all you would want to know.
I hope it helps!

mikim

· #16 · May 4, 2007

I bought a cheap set of stack dado blades ... thought for as little as I will be using them ... didn't want to spend the money....BIG mistake. I'll be looking to get a good set now. The cheap ones make such a rough cut - might as well use a hatchet. From my experience - buy the good ones. Maybe you won't use 'em much - but when you do you won't be disappointed. It's not like they will go bad over time. Store 'em well and they'll be there the next time you need them.

Joe Lyddon

· #17 · May 5, 2007

mikim,

I'm convinced that using the Router is the easiest way to make box joints... cheaper too...

With the right, simple, jig, it's great!!
... see post on 3-13-07...

Hubert

· #18 · May 5, 2007

The only limitation is the size of the finger that can be done with the router. Anything bigger than 1/2 inch could be dangerous.

Corndog

· #19 · May 17, 2007

mikim said:
I bought a cheap set of stack dado blades ... thought for as little as I will be using them ... didn't want to spend the money....BIG mistake. I'll be looking to get a good set now. The cheap ones make such a rough cut - might as well use a hatchet. From my experience - buy the good ones. Maybe you won't use 'em much - but when you do you won't be disappointed. It's not like they will go bad over time. Store 'em well and they'll be there the next time you need them.

I second that....cheap will be more expensive in the end.

Mitch Cholewinski

· #20 · May 21, 2007

Mikim
If your convinced that using a cheaply made box joint jig is the easiest and cheapest way to make box joints, you never used Freuds box joint blade for making different sized box joints. You need to make a simple jig but when you do you cut perfect joints every time. No contest. This blade will last forever and I dought you will ever need to sharpen it. Mitch.

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