Woodworking Talk banner
1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi there-

Long time lurker, first time poster.

I recently picked up a used Craftsman 10 inch, 15 amp Table Saw on Craigslist for $250, which seemed like a great deal. Now I've got a table saw and a router table in a portable unit, which is great since I'm a renter. That said, it didn't come with a rip fence.

Could I get some recommendations for a good, solid replacement rip fence? I understand some of the parts are compatible with the BT3000 and the BT3001...is the rip fence one of them???

Thanks-
 

·
where's my table saw?
Joined
·
29,617 Posts
  • Like
Reactions: Huntrava

·
(clever wood pun here)
Joined
·
979 Posts

·
Sawdust Creator
Joined
·
8,046 Posts
That was my first table saw....and it was a great saw...

Have you checked with sears parts?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Model # and/or a pic would narrow it down from the dozens of possible saws this could be.
Wow, my bad. I posted that after work at 3:30 AM...:laughing:

It is indeed the 21829. On Ebay the replacement Sears parts are very expensive (~120) which is why I'm wondering if a less expensive fence would work, or if that's just the cost of doing businesses with this thing.

Retro fit a Biesemeyer fence to the saw, I did to my C-man. Pretty easy job.
This could be interesting. As far as I know, the only thing more important than a properly aligned fence is a calibrated blade. Are there any tutorials on how to do this? It doesn't sound cheaper, per se, but I'm sure it would improve the saw overall.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
335 Posts
Wow, my bad. I posted that after work at 3:30 AM...:laughing:

This could be interesting. As far as I know, the only thing more important than a properly aligned fence is a calibrated blade. Are there any tutorials on how to do this? It doesn't sound cheaper, per se, but I'm sure it would improve the saw overall.
I did this with my C-Man saw and the instructions supplied by Beisemeyer were easy to follow. I had to drill the cast iron top for some bolts, drills easy, and I had to cut out part of the rear rail so the tilt would work. Then I make a right extension table for it.

Not a difficult installation. The hardest part was cutting the rear steel angle iron to allow the saw to tilt.

I would do it again without hesitation.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13,237 Posts
Wow, my bad. I posted that after work at 3:30 AM...:laughing:

It is indeed the 21829. On Ebay the replacement Sears parts are very expensive (~120) which is why I'm wondering if a less expensive fence would work, or if that's just the cost of doing businesses with this thing.



This could be interesting. As far as I know, the only thing more important than a properly aligned fence is a calibrated blade. Are there any tutorials on how to do this? It doesn't sound cheaper, per se, but I'm sure it would improve the saw overall.
What is a "calibrated blade?"

George
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Top