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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm not sure whether this is due to the old belt, a major flaw in the saw design...or operator error, but when I lower the blade on my saw, the belt has too much slack to spin the blade! I have used some thin 7 1/4 circular saw blades and managed to cut a little bit of it, but I can't cut enough of it out to let my table saw blade stick through. Seems like it needs to be about 90% of the way up to get proper tension on the belt..which can't be right?

New belt or am I missing something here?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Update

So I went on an extensive hunt for a stock replacement belt for this saw, and hit ace hardwares, auto parts stores, home depots and even 2 specialized woodworking shops in my area to no avail.

However I did have a brand new pulley and link belt set, so I decided to do this!
It was actually a huge pain in the ass getting this installed and aligned. I removed and re-installed the belt about 50 times trying to get the right balance of tension. I also re-installed the motor several times trying to get it's position correct, and ended up having to shim with washers to correct some warpage to the mount that must be due to the saw's age.

The end result? I still can't cut the damn ZCI. The 10" blade at it's lowest position sticks into the bottom of the cut I made with the 7.25" blade. When turning the saw on the blade is bound so tightly it does not move at all. I tested with the stock insert and had no problem making a 3.25" depth cut into a 4x4, and even ripped (beautifully ripped I might add for a $20 saw blade) a piece of 1 inch thick pressure treated about 24 inches long with no trouble. So the UHMW is just that strong I guess.

Should I try using my full kerf 8" blade? My other two blades are thin kerf, and this would make it not technically zero clearance, but still better at reducing tearout than the stock insert. Not to mention I'd like to get my splitters installed, I was awful nervous ripping that piece without one. Thank god reading this forums has made me anal about adjusting miter/blade squareness and blade heeling.

Also I notice some bearing noise from my motor if I spin it by hand and on startup. I'm guessing that means she needs to be replaced. I've seen some on Amazon (seems to be the cheapest option) and it looks like it's going to cost me another $300 bucks or more! Which would make the total price I've spent on this saw well over $600...Errggg. Any suggestions or better options? Stock motor was 1.5 hp 3450 RPM
 

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Sawdust Creator
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A few things....I had the same thing with one I was doing....my solution was to insert the rear of the insert, put a door shim in the front, thus making the zci slightly inclined to the point the blade would spin. Keeping steady firm pressure on it I started the saw, and then slowly pulled the shim out effectively plunge cutting the zci. Would I recommend doing it every day....no, but it worked.


Other solution is to go pick up a cheap 7.25 inch circular saw blade to start the cut with.
 

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In regards to the bearings....if that's all that's wrong with the motor I'd just change the bearings. If you feel comfortable doing it yourself the bearings are probably 10 bucks or less at a bearing shop....If you don't, take the motor to a motor repair shop....still much cheaper than a new motor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Other solution is to go pick up a cheap 7.25 inch circular saw blade to start the cut with.
Got plenty but they do not seem to be doing the trick.

Your solution sounds interesting, and scary as hell. May have to skip that one but kudos for having the cajones to give it a shot lol. I think the 8 inch from my dado set may be just big enough to give the full size blade room, and I guess 1/16 of an inch off in thickness isn't a huge deal.

Thanks for the tip on the motor, I had no idea I could do that. I didn't imagine taking the motor apart was even a possibility. I prefer to do most things myself but I'm finally getting to the point in life where my time is worth some money so I think I'll leave that one to the pros.
 

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Try putting on your full kerf 8" blade and getting it started but not bringing it all the way through. Then switch back to your 10" TK blade for the rest of the cut that way you still maintaine the zero clearance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Try putting on your full kerf 8" blade and getting it started but not bringing it all the way through. Then switch back to your 10" TK blade for the rest of the cut that way you still maintaine the zero clearance.
Smart idea! Justifying my reasoning to join this forum yet again.

Surprisingly....it wasn't all that scary when I was doing it.
You may just be braver than I then lol. Also, my insert screws in from the front, so to have anything holding it down I'd have to reverse this and shim the back right? Making it inherently more dangerous.


Thanks to everyone again!
 
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