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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello everyone -

After getting such helpful advice on my thread about purchasing a table saw, I thought I'd continue my restoration process with the support of the board. Seems like I will be better off going step by step with you guys to check my work. With that in mind, here is my first batch of upgrades:

http://www.ptreeusa.com/tablesaw_products.htm#3096
Pulley and link belt set
Zero Clearance insert
http://www.ptreeusa.com/mjsplitter.htm
Think kerg micro jig splitter

Also

An irwin 24t Marathon rip blade
I have a nice 40t combination blade and I plan to ask for a few more for xmas.

I got some miter slot sized umhw strips to build my miter sled out of too...the store on the website is five minutes from work and is an amazing place...i have a feeling I will be making many pilgrimages there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I started disassembly last night and began scouring the tabletop with steel wool and mineral spirits since I had them on hand. However, that is proving wholly insufficient as you can see in the pics, so it's off to pick up some sandpaper of the proper grit and use the method toolguy showed me in this video:

Progress pics so far
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Hmmm...can't get a couple of the pics to post for some reason.

base and stand have been simple-green cleaned as well, shop vac and blow gun from air compressor and a steel wire brush have come in pretty handy as well. need to take the blade off and get down in there for some extra cleaning too
 

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I've got the same saw and it runs like a champ. I've got the Rockler version of that thin strip rip jig and it is an excellent investment. I also added zero clearance inserts a few years back, but I do need to add a spliter solution.

I bought my saw new, many, many years ago, so it's still in good shape. Good luck on the restoration!
 

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I have the same saw. It works pretty good. I haven't done much upgrading yet. I'm in the process of making and extension table and cc sled. Be sure to get the craftsman mitre slot material, as the slots on the table are .75”. even with thr undersized material I need to take a few thousandths off with the plane to make em run smooth. Not hard to do with uhmw material, but aluminum would be a different story.
 

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Hmmm...can't get a couple of the pics to post for some reason.

base and stand have been simple-green cleaned as well, shop vac and blow gun from air compressor and a steel wire brush have come in pretty handy as well. need to take the blade off and get down in there for some extra cleaning too
try to remove the insert that sits in the table in front of the blade before cleaning continuing to work on the table top. that insert is a great aid for aligning cuts, provided it's used as specified in the ridgid OM for that saw. remember to use wet/dry sandpaper with the MS. good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I used steel wool with the mineral spirits, and last night I went to HF and bought metal sandpaper for the 150 grit and wet/dry in 220-800 or so grit. Also got a rust dissolving product that works pretty well.

The orange theme is an accident lol. Crappy galaxy nexus camera and fluorescent lights in the garage bouncing off tons of rust sure gives it an orange patina though.

This time I put down some rust dissolver and block sanded with 150 about 3 separate times. Between the 2nd and third I laid paper towels soaked in rust remover over the table for about an hour. That worked so well that after the third sanding I did it again and coated the extensions, wrapped it all in plastic and left it sitting until I can do it again tonight. Thinking I'll switch to the 220 wet/dry paper and move up the chain from there. Got some 3m scouring pads too for cleaning the fence.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
I haven't gotten the thin rip jig yet, thats just where the link directs for some reason.

I noticed my umhw strips had to be leveraged in there and wouldn't really slide, but I assumed this was due to rust build up. Hmmm...any suggestions on how to evenly trim them down? I don't own any planes and buying another tool just to do that is somewhat out of the question.

That evaporust works really well btw. you can see the difference in the table just from one sanding pass and the dissolver on there, though i forgot to take pics after laying the towels down and sanding again the first time. Quite a bit of rust came off very easily from the last pic of my post from yesterday to the pic from my first post today
 

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Its coming along nicely despite the orange tint. :thumbsup:

You have way more patients than I do. My saw had a lot of rust when I got it and my solution was a wire brush on an angle grinder to knock down most of it then sanding with 600 wet/dry paper and mineral oil and finally scouring with the mineral oil and a kitchen scotch brite pad.

Took about 3 hours and the rust was gone. I ended up with a nice smooth surface without using smelly chemicals or waiting overnight. From the initial rust removal all I've ever done is keep it cleaned with scotch pads and mineral oil followed by either T-9 when putting it up for long periods or Top Coat once a week when in use.

Once a saw gets rusted, its a constant battle to keep the rust away. So be prepared to put that saw on a regular schedule of cleaning and maintenance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
You have way more patients than I do. My saw had a lot of rust when I got it and my solution was a wire brush on an angle grinder to knock down most of it then sanding with 600 wet/dry paper and mineral oil and finally scouring with the mineral oil and a kitchen scotch brite pad.
If I was going to do it over again, I would do this. In fact I will do that on the extensions tonight, though an angle grinder would probably do the job alot better than my drill is going too. Once I started with the sandpaper I figured I would just keep going, but it really did take a lot of steps.

I believe I block sanded with 150 about 6 times, 220 about 5 times, 500 twice and 1000 twice. And used a whole bottle of evapo-rust. Happy to say now though that the top is rust free for all intents and purposes and due to all the finish sanding, smooth as glass:thumbsup: I may actually do some 1000 and 1200 grit again, just because I've never felt cast iron so slick and I want to see how good I can get it.

I'll get the extensions done tonight, they've been soaking in rust remover paper towels for 2 days while I handled the top. I've also noticed my miter slots are like a 32nd or 16th of a inch small. I did some aggressive sanding with 150 and 100 but I think I may go even rougher and work my way back smoother on these, as I want standard miter slot sized jugs and accessories to work.

Got some tri-flo to seal her up with today too! Hopefully I can get the pulley and belts changed, insert and splittters in, then put it all back together so I can play with it this weekend!
 

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any reason the blade is on the saw while it's being worked on?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
any reason the blade is on the saw while it's being worked on?
Not really. It is so dull that if I threw it at your as hard as I could I doubt it would even scratch the skin. It is either the original blade or it once was used to cut concrete beams. Came off this weekend though!

I taped and rust converter primered the non sliding parts of the extension tables, cleaned everything as best I could and put the fence back together, in the process checking the heeling of the blade and making sure it was parallel to the miter slots. Surprisingly, even after readjusting the table, everything was almost spot on, though I did spend some time adjusting for 90 degrees to the table.

I did not go through with putting on the new pulleys...once I realized what I would have to disassemble to get to the pulley on the arbor I balked. Not only was it a little intimidating, but after I got the extensions back on the last thing I wanted to do was scratch the tabletop back up and take everything back off to get to it. So for now a link belt will do.

I also chose not to move the fence rails out to 36" to the right. The factory configuration is going to provide all I need for the moment and it was much easier to get it square with the factory tape.

What I'd like to do with this thing is convert it to a cabinet saw with a router table...down the road. Now it's square and has a new blade, I'll get the inserts and splitter running and start cutting. There are a lot of projects around my house to get done.

More pics!

Blade insert not in because the factory one has frozen leveling allen screws and it is not even close to level. New one is a zero clearance and I wanted to square the blade before I cut into it.
 

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For the love of God ... get a new camera !!!

:tt2:
 

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......... So for now a link belt will do.......
the 2424 originally had a ribbed bet with complementing pulleys that normally would not work with a link belt. were the pulleys on your saw changed from the OEM units so they would work with a link belt?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
For the love of God ... get a new camera !!!

:tt2:
Surely you wouldn't want me to replace the tools on my christmas list with a camera would you?

the 2424 originally had a ribbed bet with complementing pulleys that normally would not work with a link belt. were the pulleys on your saw changed from the OEM units so they would work with a link belt?
Glad you told me that. I'd have just tried it and made a hell of a mess. In that case all I have left to do is cut and level the zero clearance insert and install the splitters. I think I'll keep the pulleys and belt instead of returning them, what I have been able to read about the pulleys suggests they make a pretty nice upgrade.

Now I need to build a shed to move all the lawncare junk outside. Really trying to think of a way to incorporate some wood storage and get that out of my garage too, I'm just not sure I want to build a shed big enough to do that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Does anyone know how to find one of the router table inserts like in this craiglist ads? I know that will fit my table, but I have spent hours on craftsman's website and google trying to find out how to order one and I can't. I have a feeling they'll be drastically cheaper than the aftermarket ones which all seem to cost 250+

http://atlanta.craigslist.org/nat/tls/4172039661.html

another style

http://atlanta.craigslist.org/nat/tls/4125602826.html

Seems like they shouldn't be that difficult to find and I am just having a two week brain fart.
 
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