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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just finished up the router table for my Ridgid R4512. It fits in the right side of the saw and is about 14.5" by 27".

I know how step by step is the favorite around here, but I get too into what I'm doing to take pictures. It's not the prettiest router table, but it's a tool, not a project.

I hope you enjoy the descriptions and pictures. One picture is my sweet shop!

  1. The top is 3/4 melamine, with 3/4 hardwood edging, on top of a 1"h x 2"w frame.
  2. The insert is a 7" x11" piece of 1/4" masonite with a hole for my biggest bit. It is set on a 1/2" wide ledge, which took issue with my jigsaw at one point....
  3. The fence has a 3/4" mdf base, a 3/4" ply subfence, 3/4" melamine fence faces that slide, and 4" dc.
  4. The router is a craftsman variable speed 12 amp, 2 hp, with a through table fine height adjuster.
I would probably do a few things differently next time.
  1. I would put simple holes into the fence base instead of slots. I thought the extra adjustment in front of the router would be nice. But if I'm beyond the router too much, it means I'm not using it and the fence could just come off. And the bolts end up moving in the slots and the t-track at the same time, which is a bit annoying.
  2. I would just use slots with machine screws and wingnuts in the table top for the fence base instead of expensive t track and t-bolts.
 

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· Wood Snob
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sanchez said:
I got rid of the slots on the base of the fence and went with simple holes. I just cut them out on the table saw and inserted fresh pieces of 3/4" mdf.
Looks very well made. I have a few questions. Do you ever think you will need t slots that long? Why is the fence so tall?

Al

Friends don't let friends use stamped metal tools sold at clothing stores.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Looks very well made. I have a few questions. Do you ever think you will need t slots that long? Why is the fence so tall?

Al

Friends don't let friends use stamped metal tools sold at clothing stores.
The T-slots dont need to be that long. Really, I only need about 3-4 inches of adjustment. But I didn't think about it before cutting the dadoes.

The fence is tall in case I want to use vertical panel bits. And I may cut a channel for t-track to add fence featherboards.
 

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The T-slots dont need to be that long. Really, I only need about 3-4 inches of adjustment. But I didn't think about it before cutting the dadoes.

The fence is tall in case I want to use vertical panel bits. And I may cut a channel for t-track to add fence featherboards.
Looks great! The tall fence was a good choice IMO. It will make any vertical edge work much more stable and safe. Did you say that insert is made of Masonite?? :Eek: that will sage from the weight of the router. It will probably work for an while, especially if you don't keep the router mounted under there when not using it, but it will sag and become concave. You may want to keep an eye out for a phentholic (sp? It is a kind of plastic) or aluminum plate. If you take your time and wait for the right deal, you can do much better that the $60-80 Rocker and Woodcraft prices. I look forward to seeing how you like your table and what projects you end up building with it!

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I got rid of the slots on the base of the fence and went with simple holes. I just cut them out on the table saw and inserted fresh pieces of 3/4" mdf.
Yep the original slots weren't necessary with the t-tract. You might consider one short slot 90 degrees from the track so the fence can be clamped down at an angle (relative to the track) if need be. I'll clamp my fence down at a diagonal angle when I need a longer table surface to support the project being cut.
 
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