Woodworking Talk banner
1 - 8 of 8 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
67 Posts
Has anyone here ever used Rhino glue. Maybe for gluing in pen tubes or doing segmenting work?? Or maybe just something else around the house. If so what is your opinion?? I just ordered some to try on my segmented pens. I am always looking for stronger adhesives. Thanks.

http://www.rhinoglue.com/images/RHINOHEADMAIN.jpg
This is an ugly glue for use by turners, it bubbles up pushing your pieces apart. Stick with TB 1 for a nice job.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
274 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
This is an ugly glue for use by turners, it bubbles up pushing your pieces apart. Stick with TB 1 for a nice job.

This is the second site I should have been more specific. When I talked about segmenting I was talking pens. If I ever glue wood to wood I always use Titebond II. In the pens I make which I have shown here I use lots of diffent materials such as wood, acrylics and different metals. This is what I need to bond together. I usually use epoxy which is System3t88. I have used CA which is Satellite CA. But I am always looking for something stronger that can withstand the rigors of pen making such as the heat when turning.

I have ordered some so I will give it a test. Thanks.


By the way you might be thinking of Gorilla glue which is a polyurethane glue. This stuff is suppose to be something like a CA glue so no bubbles.
 

·
The Old Fisherman
Joined
·
305 Posts
This is the second site I should have been more specific. When I talked about segmenting I was talking pens. If I ever glue wood to wood I always use Titebond II. In the pens I make which I have shown here I use lots of diffent materials such as wood, acrylics and different metals. This is what I need to bond together. I usually use epoxy which is System3t88. I have used CA which is Satellite CA. But I am always looking for something stronger that can withstand the rigors of pen making such as the heat when turning.

I have ordered some so I will give it a test. Thanks.


By the way you might be thinking of Gorilla glue which is a polyurethane glue. This stuff is suppose to be something like a CA glue so no bubbles.
Just grabbed some gorilla wood glue. They claim no bubbles on their wood glue.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
274 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Just grabbed some gorilla wood glue. They claim no bubbles on their wood glue.
They make various types of glues including CA. Not sure which one you have but there is one where water is the activator and it foams when curing. I do not use their product. As I said to me there is no finer wood to wood glue than Titebond and that is all I would use. I am looking for that industrial strength glue that sticks everything to everything. Leaves no glue lines and does not break down with heat when turning.

I will give this glue a try and let you know my findings. Evidently no one here has used it so I will be the first:yes:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,609 Posts
Thanks for being willing to test-drive it, John.

Oddly, at a weekend workshop with Kurt Hertzog he strongly recommended using the foaming Gorilla glue to stick the brass tubes into wooden blanks. His argument was that the foaming action completely fills any voids caused by drilling or non-solid blanks (such as burls), and that this benefit outways the minor inconvenience of having to clear any glue overspill. I've tried it a couple of times, and found the extra clean-up is minimal -- I always inspected and scraped the inside of the tubes anyway, since the time that a tiny blob of epoxy glue caused an expensive blank to split when I pressed in the pen components.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
274 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks for being willing to test-drive it, John.

Oddly, at a weekend workshop with Kurt Hertzog he strongly recommended using the foaming Gorilla glue to stick the brass tubes into wooden blanks. His argument was that the foaming action completely fills any voids caused by drilling or non-solid blanks (such as burls), and that this benefit outways the minor inconvenience of having to clear any glue overspill. I've tried it a couple of times, and found the extra clean-up is minimal -- I always inspected and scraped the inside of the tubes anyway, since the time that a tiny blob of epoxy glue caused an expensive blank to split when I pressed in the pen components.
I always use epoxy for gluing in tubes and it does basically the same thing. Just another tool in the tool box as they say.
 
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
Top