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· where's my table saw?
32,680 Posts
I don't understand the mechanics

You have a pipe thread T on the face and then a machine thread rod for the screw. Usually they are different sizes and thread count. How did you make the transition?

Usually the chop is "captured" on both sides and the nut is in the main part as you have it. This allows the chop to move both in and out when the handle is turned, since it spins freely. There would have to be some creative fabrication to get that to work in my opinion.
Some other ideas:
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· Exiled to Missouri
245 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
To answer MasterSpinter and woodnthings' question, since they are similar, though one is a two-parter. The transition between the threaded rod and the tee was done by first wrapping the threaded rod with tape because it fit loosely inside the flange-pipe nipple-tee component. Once it was jammed inside, I simply drilled two holes. One went through the flange, pipe nipple, and rod; whereas the other went through the tee, pipe nipple, and rod. I ran roll pins through each of the holes and trimmed them off.

The flange being connected to the threaded rod but not the chop allows it to spin freely. As you twist the rod to the right, the flange press against the chop and moves it closer to the leg. Currently twisting to the left loosens the chop, but as it is free, I must manually move the chop away from the leg. I am intending to install some type of plate to the chop, connected to the rod, but that will be later. It works perfectly fine at this point, and so there is no hurry for this modification.
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