[Ken Johnson]

I just got my hands on a used 3' x 6' laminated rock maple benchtop that I am going to replace my existing benchtop with. It is in prety good condition but has a lot of nicks and dents in it. Should I even consider resurfacing it? If so, how do I go about it and what type of finish should I use when I am done?

 

[Denny J]

I just got my hands on a used 3' x 6' laminated rock maple benchtop that I am going to replace my existing benchtop with. It is in prety good condition but has a lot of nicks and dents in it. Should I even consider resurfacing it? If so, how do I go about it and what type of finish should I use when I am done?

It depends on your style. IMO character and patina are nice traits to have on a table top

 

[Corndog]

I would like to say leave all "the badges of honor" but a dead flat surface sure is nice.
Marc Spagnolo at The Wood Whisperer site has a podcast on planing where he shows a neat router sled jiggy thing-y.

http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/

This one I think...

http://thewoodwhisperer.com/?p=83

 

[mackem]

Personally i would keep the battle scars, but you could also
use a sheet of m.d.f. and replace that when it gets chewed up. :smile:

 

[Grinder]

I agree, scars are cools, a warped top isn't. If it's warped, use winding sticks and straight edges to find the high spots. Hog off the high spots with a long hand plane or hand held power planner and fine tune with a belt sander. Then, run it through a thickness sander to finish it off. I like a light poly or oil finish.

 

[Corndog]

Personally i would keep the battle scars, but you could also
use a sheet of m.d.f. and replace that when it gets chewed up. :smile:

That's the first time I've ever heard of maple as a substrate for MDF!!!:laughing:

 

[cabinetman]

If I had a choice (and free is a good choice) I wouldn't spend any time trying to resurface it as you may make it worse. I would just use a thin piece of tempered masonite (hardboard), and put the smooth side up. It's pretty cheap. When it gets all mucked up, just throw on another sheet. This way you have a solid substrate with a replaceable top.

Or use as a top sheet a thin sheet of melamine or Formica laminated plywood (can be thin, like 1/4"). Glue and finish materials will wipe or scrape off very easy. Also, a cheap fix.

Now, if you're one of the millions of woodworkers who just like cool looking shop items and have to stand back and drool with great degrees of salivation that loads up on the front of your shirt, spend the time handplaning and sanding, and finish off with oil base polyurerthane. Once that is done, don't do any work on it as every nick, scratch and globs of glue will seriously affect your state of mind sending you into hours of depression. :laughing::laughing:

 

[Ken Johnson]

Ok, I think I have been convinced to leave it alone and appreciate the battle scars. However, I'd like some input on how to attach it to my base. Right now I just have 4 big lag bolts screwed up into the top. If anyone has any better ideas I'm open to hear them.

 

[cabinetman]

Lag bolts? Sounds like overkill. If you already have it lagged, and there's no problem, enjoy it. The top should be supported evenly on the base so there's less of a chance for it to warp, or get out of whack. If you have to screw into it, drill a pilot hole first.

 

[Dennis Mas]

Nails???

I wouldn't resurface an old bench top either, mostly because you can ruin bits, plane blades, etc. if you should find a nail or something imbedded in the wood. Good luck with your new top.