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Restoring a '62 Chris Craft Sea Skiff

14634 Views 140 Replies 24 Participants Last post by  Kudzu
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Busy restoring a 1962 Chris Craft Seas Skiff. Almost have the boats hull sealed but had to take a break from laying on my back replacing, repairing and swearing at wood screws. You can replace a 100 screws, stand back and look and get ZERO feeling of accomplishment. It just doesn't show. You know you worked hard because you shoulders and neck ache so bad, but it just not satisfying work.



I have to stop sometimes and do something that 'feels good" when you stand back and look. I am going to paint the inside of the boat and needed to get at least one coat of varnish on the bright work in case there is any over spray. It is SO much easier to strip a little varnish off of bare wood than paint is. So I always put at least a couple of coats of varnish on before painting anything adjacent to it.

First I have to remove all the gauges and switches.





Stripping the bulkhead was no picnick either. Need to sand with 220 and then it will be ready for a good cleaning and some varnish.



Next is filler stain and then Varnish.
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Still finding lots of distraction that are keeping me off the boat. But living in a RV in the woods trying to make it home, I guess that is normal.

But I got a little bit done. Had two bungs on bow stem to replace. I assumed they covered screw holes but was wondering why there were screws there. To my surprise they were through holes!

I found some some mahogany I had replaced in the boat, cut it up and made a couple of dowels to plug the hoes with.






Working on the transom. Want to get at least a couple of coats of varnish on it. Then any paint will not stain the wood. Much easier to remove paint over varnish than raw wood!



Going to have to bleach it to ever get the name off and wood colors consistent. It has a swim platform you can clearly see where it mounted.



Had a damaged corner. Not enough to warrant pulling the transom and replacing the top half. It is covered with a trim piece so I decided to just fit a piece and glue it in. Again, made from some part I replaced in the boat.
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Great project and excellent work. Don't know much about wood boats (have only owned fiberglass), but something like this is on my bucket list of things to do.

When I was a kid we vacationed on Green Lake in Wisconsin. The mail was delivered by boat. I'll never forget the beautiful mahogany Chris-Craft pulling up to the docks with a black Lab standing on the front deck.

Wondering about a few things:

Anyone have any thoughts on spraying the inside of the hull with a coating they use inside p/u truck beds (spray on bed liner)?

When doing a full resto on a car, if you have space and $, it's really nice to use a rotisserie. Any idea if something like that can be used on one if these boats? It sure would make it easier to work on the bottom. Merrick Auto Rotisserie with No Jacks M998080

I've heard that wooden boats tend to leak when they are put in the water after having been out for a time. Apparently the water swells the wood and stops the leaks (or at least most of them)?

I know this is not a boating website, but the thread is here...
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I've heard that wooden boats tend to leak when they are put in the water after having been out for a time. Apparently the water swells the wood and stops the leaks (or at least most of them)?
I'm told that it is "a thing" to fill a wood boat with water to re-swell the wood. Sounds locical but of course to much warer and you drown the engine.

Ken
I'm told that it is "a thing" to fill a wood boat with water to re-swell the wood. Sounds locical but of course to much warer and you drown the engine.

Ken
Interesting. I had not heard about filling it with water. I assumed you put it in the water and let it swell as it sat in the water (running the pump as needed as it fills with water so it doesn't go down or swamp the engine).
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Did another repair on the bow stem. Another problem area was under the bow eye. I did a repair on it 20+ years ago but didn't have that much in the way of skills then, plus there was some damage that happened since.



So I pulled the eye out and started cutting till I got to good wood.



You can see a white oak block I put in there all those years ago.



I found a chunk of Mahogany and fitted it in the slot. My skills are not as good free handing something like this but I am getting better with every try.



Took me half a day but I keep trimming and trimming and finally got it fitted and roughed out. I decided to screw it in place because I had no way to clamp it when I applied the epoxy. And I am going to paint from here down.



Always bugged me that the eye was not centered so I took this chance to plug the old hole and drill a new one in the center.



And then some planning and sanding and it is ready for a little filler and paint.



Then LOTS more paint scrapping. I will probably have dreams about scrapping paint. But I have got a good system going now and it is going faster.
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[Then LOTS more paint scrapping. I will probably have dreams about scrapping paint. But I have got a good system going now and it is going faster.

Because I don't know.... Would a chemical paint stripper be faster? Or would that have a detrimental effect on other things like filler and waterproofers?

Ken
Because I don't know.... Would a chemical paint stripper be faster? Or would that have a detrimental effect on other things like filler and waterproofers?

Ken
Based on the age of the boat, what about the possibility of lead in the paint? Is it safer to remove lead paint with stripper than by scrapping and sanding?
I hate messing with checmical strippers and the quality of stripper today is not good.

And there is not doubt that there is lead paint there. That why is so dang hard to get off.
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Such a good feeling! Putting on a couple of coats of varnish.

At this point it is just to protect the wood. Still have a lot of work to do on the hull. But when I start painting I do not want any paint on bare wood that is to be varnished. It leaves a stain that is so hard to remove!

So this will protect it and I can sand it off easily if I need too.





Also have one side stripped of paint. Down to the original lead based paint and it isn't going anywhere!!
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Friday Update (on Saturday)

One of those weeks with lots of sore muscles and hours of work and it barely shows. You about have to look at last weeks photo compared to this weeks to see any progress.





I spent the week sanding. I found I could do about an hour and then had to stop and do something else. I have this side of the boat about 95% done. It is ready to applying the filler and fairing compound to even out all the flaws.

Then guess what? MORE sanding. But that is just part of it. Can't be as bad as sanding inside the boat was!

This morning I am reading Facebook and drinking my coffee and this thought pops in my head.

I have spent the last couple of weeks looking for MDO or real Marine Grade ply for the decks. I just couldn't find anything within a 3 hour drive of me. I can have it shipped but I was getting prices of $500 just for crate and shipping. Then $500 for the plywood. So ball park $1,000.

So, I plugged in Marine Plywood in Market place and first ad was an hours drive away and he had 3-1/2 sheets of Okume, marine plywood for $225. Exactly the size and amount I need.


Okume Marine Grade Plywood (New), 3.5 sheets that are 9 mm thick and 1 sheet that is 6 mm thick.
This is a top grade marine plywood that is 4'x8' size, $225 or $200 if picked up by 5/17/22.

Two hours latter I was trying not to break his hand stuffing the money in it!

Next week I will most likely start putting the decking on the boat. Then I can roll it over and spend the month sanding.
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Looking good.
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Weekend update
June 4th, 2022

Just finished fitting the decks to the boat!

Not nearly as bad a job as I expected and it turned out better than I expected. Nice tight joints. Of course that is a lot easier when you dealing with a mostly flat surface rather than rolling bevels.

Just a few screw holes to drill and the decks are done. Next I will take them off and paint them. I want everything painted, especially the hidden sides. That where the rot will start. I think if CC had at least primed the wood before putting the boats together than would have lasted a lot longer.



I started at the bow. I had the old ones for patterns but they were rough but a good starting point. Cut them oversized and put them on the boat where I could mark them. Take them off and trim the edges.





Rear deck I decided to make in two pieces since it minimized scrap. I thought I had just enough plywood and If I messed up it meant $200 shipping for one sheet. I did mess up one side, I got confused and cut a taper the wrong way. Proud to say that was the only one I messed up and I used it elsewhere on the boat.





Next were the gunwales. Factory made them in two pieces but since it never shows I went with 3 pieces. Again making the most of the plywood I had. Lots of big scraps after doing the decks and seems wasteful not to use it. Especially at $125+ a sheet.



Decks finished and temporarily in place. Just a few screw holes left to drill. Then I will take it apart and start painting both sides before installing them permanently.

Then the real fun. Going to flip her over and working on finishing the outsides.
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I completely restored and rebuilt a 1965 C-C Super Sport, 18 ft. 3 years and I had to sell it but it was worth it I guess:cry:
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Another weeks work done.

Another weeks work that doesn't really show either.

Pulled the newly fitted decks off and started painting the undersides. I have two coats on the bottoms. One coat on the top. I am thinking about a third on the bottom but not sure.

Topsides will be finished after then are installed. Lot of filling and fairing to do but that will be one of the last jobs It is almost time to roll it over and start working on the hull and getting it read for paint.





While I had the deck off I want to work on the rats nest of wiring in the boat. I have worked on this once before but I kept looking at it finding more things I didn't like.

So lots of reterminating wires. insulating exposed terminal ends, removing excess wire and splices.

While I had easy access I decided it was time to replace that pitiful excuse of a fuse panel with a proper box with modern (easier to find) fuses. Also a good chance to improve on the wiring. Still doesn't look great, it is MUCH better than it was. And a whole lot safer too!

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WEEKEND UPDATE

Skipped last week. Lots of work but nothing that showed. But this week! I think photos will speak for themselves.









The plan was to roll it over but had some issued getting it to tip. Realized that it was easier to work on like this. Some change of plans, Going to do half the bottom, then roll it over and do the other half. Then I can put it on the trailer or cradle and finish up the sides.
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Managed to get 3 coats of paint on half the bottom. Lot of 'body work" involved. Lots of sanding too.



Rolled it over the other way this morning. Going to start on the Starboard bottom. Hoping to have it done by next weekend.



Between coats of paint or waiting on filler or fairing compound to dry I have start to work on the brakes on the trailer. Pretty much just have to replace everything. Looks like they may have seen some salt at some point.

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Bottom is done, except for where the straps were. Put her back upright this morning. I need to get undernearth and finish that off. Small area but it going to be miserable work.

Not much to see for the next few weeks. LOT and LOTS of sanding and filling.

Maybe I would do a time lapse of my fingerprints disappearing??



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After all these years t is SO NICE to see the end coming.
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