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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I want to alter the shroud so the port comes off the side. I‘ve seen other planer shrouds like this so I‘m fairly confident it can be done.

Here’s a couple mockups of what I’m thinking about. I would cut off the existing port and make the wall curved.

Air flow is not a big issue as the duct length to the planer is less than 10’.

Pic 1 is my choice as it will be easier to fabricate. I’m thinking use an HVAC sleeve with a flange.

I would appreciate your thoughts and suggestions.

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Robert - just a thought - - - instead of cutting the back exhaust off, could you just cap off the outlet and install the new outlet on the side? so, if you ever want to change it back, you still have the original assembly to modify again, if needed.
OR - make a cardboard design to play with, then make a new one out of sheet metal. (easy to do with some snips and some solder). or MDF and fiberglass.
 

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OR - make a cardboard design to play with, then make a new one out of sheet metal. (easy to do with some snips and some solder).
This is standard hvac duct boot. It gives you an idea of how you could make one. You might even be able to buy one and modify it to work with your planer. Pop rivets would probably work fine if you didn't want to solder as John suggested. Notice that the rectangular portion is offset so that it would clear the wood coming out of the planer. This is essentially the way the dust hood is made on my old Delta.
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I used of these floor sweeps on my Foley Belsaw planer. I mounted it on a rubber hinge so it would lift up slightly as the material is feeding through. A piano hinge would also work. It works quite well and saves space I use a 4" 45 PVC Elbow to the DC collection hose.

Shown here:
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·

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@Woodworking Wolf — OK I like this. Thanks a lot. I’m going to see if HD has one, if not I have a good friend in the HVAC field. I’m confident he can either get one or get one made.
There are a lot of variations in these. If HD doesn't have one that works, see what your friend can come up with. Another possibility is that you find one close and your friend bends up a transition piece to make it fit perfectly.

Here are a few links to what the big box I shop at has. Note that there are left and right offsets as well as a center style (where the rectangular opening is relative to the round opening).



 

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I want to alter the shroud so the port comes off the side. I‘ve seen other planer shrouds like this so I‘m fairly confident it can be done.

Here’s a couple mockups of what I’m thinking about. I would cut off the existing port and make the wall curved.

Air flow is not a big issue as the duct length to the planer is less than 10’.

Pic 1 is my choice as it will be easier to fabricate. I’m thinking use an HVAC sleeve with a flange.

I would appreciate your thoughts and suggestions.

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I think it will work fine. My Jet 15" planer pulls off the side. I think your idea of shaping the inside is necessary to prevent sawdust from building up inside and clogging.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Seems to work well. I have no idea about CFM and not even thought about it. I am going to make a flange using 1” wide aluminum, maybe put some down weatherstripping?
 

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I think the most difficult situation would be a full width board and the deepest cut you'd ever make, if it handles that well do you need to do anything more?

Is the flange to fit it to the machine better? I'd only try the weather stripping if there's a problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I think the most difficult situation would be a full width board and the deepest cut you'd ever make, if it handles that well do you need to do anything more?

Is the flange to fit it to the machine better? I'd only try the weather stripping if there's a problem.
No, I haven't tried a real wide board yet (rarely do anyway), but I'd be surprised if it didn't perform well.

The flange is simply for a more secure attachment. The top of the boot is only held by one bolt b/c its not long enough.
 
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