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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
From the help of this forum my 40 year old sears table saw is back on- line with a newer 1 1/2 hp motor.

Now my (bought used) 3 hp Emglow compressors' regulator is leaking air all of a sudden. This isn't my area of expertise. I want to get a new regulator but I am not sure what to get. Can anyone steer me in the right direction? I don't want to fool around with air pressure.

RPK
 

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Old School
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This filter/regulator works very well. As a suggestion, filters work better when they aren't mounted directly to the compressors. There's a certain amount of blow-by. If you have a small area, run an airline out from your compressor, and mount the filter/regulator at the end. The further you can get it the cooler the air delivery will be.

You also need to allow for moisture trapping. Below, is a simple close quarter arrangement, that moves the airline up just to give you some distance. At the end, is where you will attach your working airline.
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Text Diagram







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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the suggestion. I have plenty of room. The "blow by" I have seems to be continuous until the main pressure drops and the compressor starts up again.

RPK
 

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Old School
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Thanks for the suggestion. I have plenty of room. The "blow by" I have seems to be continuous until the main pressure drops and the compressor starts up again.

RPK
It sounds like the diaphragm in the regulator is failing. The blow by I was referring to is some discharged air from the compressor going through the filter is under pressure and doesn't get filtered. Running extra line out from the compressor is a good way to trap and remove moisture before it gets to the air tool.






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Scotty D
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I want to get a new regulator but I am not sure what to get. Can anyone steer me in the right direction? I don't want to fool around with air pressure.
Is it just a plastic turn knob regulator that pushes in to lock? Does it still leak when locked? These type and better steel screw ones are available at most tool stores or Amazon. Make sure you get one that is rated for the maximum output of your compressor. :smile:
 

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It might just have a piece of trash, or rusty water in it. I have cleaned them out, and gotten some more use out of them, but it's been so long ago that I don't remember the details. When I replace regulators, I put the water filter before the regulator.

I like Cabinetman's loop for a stationary compressor. I haven't had long term success with automatic drains.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for all the help. I will just order a new one and pipe it up properly.

RPK
 

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novice wood hacker
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The "blow by" I have seems to be continuous until the main pressure drops and the compressor starts up again.

RPK
Are you sure it's the regulator? If the leak actually stops when the compressor starts up it is more likely leaking out the bleedoff valve in the pressure switch, caused by a bad check valve where the line goes from the compressor into the tank.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Air is coming out just below the screw part on top of the regulator where you adjust the regulator pressure.

RPK
 

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Chairman of the 'Board
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I'm thinking the high pressure cutout switch is set higher than the over pressurization valve. Either could be faulty and cause that symptom.
 

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Chairman of the 'Board
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Don't just throw a bunch of money at it... understand the problem first. Do you have a pressure gauge attached to the unit? At what pressure does the noise start?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I will have time today to mess around with it. There is a pressure gauge monitoring the tank pressure and one on the regulator. I will run it out today and make note of when the pressure switch cuts in and out and what's happening with the regulator.

Thanks for all the help and suggestions.

RPK
 

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The cut out switch is designed to protect your compressor. When you reach the pressure it's set it at, it will cut off the compressor. Most are user adjustable with a simple set screw with a locking nut and I have mine set to 140psi. If it's adjustment is out, or if it has failed, it will allow your compressor to work too hard. You can find it by following the cord to that little black (silver?) box sitting on the compressor.

The over pressurization valve is designed to keep you safe. It won't allow more than a certain pressure to build up in the system so you won't accidentally over pressurize fittings and hoses. Since these are safety devices, they are factory set. The rating should be stamped on the valve and you should never, ever defeat one. If it's venting prematurely, simply replace it with another one that is rated the same. Many of them have a lever built into them allowing you to vent the pressure in the system manually. Some nicer units create a situation where the OPV pops off a bit when the compressor hits it's target pressure. This gives you an audio clue that the device is there and working as designed. I always toggle the valve when I drain my compressor every day. I don't think it's a full test, but at least I know that it can vent.

It should be a simple matter to feel where the air is coming from when the leak occurs. Wearing safety glasses, just move your hand around all the fittings and valves. You don't have to get too close and be careful not to stick your pinkies in any moving parts. Hopefully, there's a cage over all those pieces and you shouldn't be operating the compressor if that's missing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
When I bought the compressor a few years ago I put a brand new pressure relief valve on. I haven't thought about excersing it but I will.

When air leaks out, it is leaking around the threaded part of the regulator just below where you turn the top part to adjust the regulator pressure.

The air leaks out to the point where the compressor starts up and shuts off at about 120 lbs on the main tank gauge. This will continue on.

I have a 1/2" ball valve on the compressor side of the regulator. When I shut the valve, the compressor works as should and there are no leaks.

RPK
 
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