[bof]

I have just purchased a new, and fairly cheap, solid oak dining table. The wood is described as being from managed European forests and the finish as 'lightly oiled'

Here are some photos of the table if that helps
http://www.images.topfurniture.co.uk/images/ebayimages/TallinnWinchesterleather/1.JPG
http://www.images.topfurniture.co.uk/images/ebayimages/tables/Tallinn2.jpg

I'm a little concerned about the finish and it's ability to resist staining and water marking. I don't have a dust-free environment and I'm afraid that I'll make a mess of the table if I try to laquer it, so I was thinking of adding a few more coats of Danish or Tung Oil.

Is this a good idea? Have you any other suggestions?

Should I remove the existing oil finish first and, if so, how should I do this?

Many thanks in advance

 

[Daren]

My advice would be use it some and see if the existing finish is resistant to the things you are concerned about. If it does get water marks and stains, they can be remedied later and another finish applied.
I would not monkey with the finish fresh out of the box. Even Tung oil will show water marks if you chose to do that (temporarily, the Tung oil will cloud but should return to normal).
I like the chairs, are they comfortable?
The leaf looks like a real "crumb catcher", maybe the solution to all your problems is a table cloth and place mats.

 

[bof]

Thanks Daren (Maker of fine sawdust - excellent :laughing for your sound advice.

The chairs are quite comfy with the lower back support built in. The pads are not as thick as I'd hoped, but much better than the garden chairs I have now. Here's another pic of the chairs.

http://www.images.topfurniture.co.uk/images/ebayimages/MinskWinchesterleather/3.JPG

I love that Telecaster pick guard on your site. That'd look great on a dark/black guitar.

 

[Daren]

Thanks Daren (Maker of fine sawdust - excellent :laughing for your sound advice.



I love that Telecaster pick guard on your site. That'd look great on a dark/black guitar.

Oh yea, I can make some sawdust. I am not just bragging when I say I am among the best (pretty good at planer shavings too) :laughing:.

The guy I made than pick guard for sent me a picture and 2-3 days later my computer crashed and I lost it. It did look great. The guitar was black with a curly maple neck, the original guard was generic white plastic :thumbdown:, it just did not look right. The wood one made a big improvement.

And welcome to the forum by the way.

 

[jimmiet.]

oil finish

tried & true varnish is a oil and varnish mix out of a can. wipe or brush on ,wait twenty minutes , wipe off . repeat as many coats as you want. Or mix spar varnish, linseed oil and turpintine equal parts apply same way. Don't have to worry about dust. Also if you want to fill the grain sand when finish gets tacky, will make a slurry which
will fill the grain to a slick finish. Heat either one before you apply it.
Also wait 24 hours between coats

 

[bof]

tried & true varnish is a oil and varnish mix out of a can. wipe or brush on ,wait twenty minutes , wipe off . repeat as many coats as you want. Or mix spar varnish, linseed oil and turpintine equal parts apply same way. Don't have to worry about dust. Also if you want to fill the grain sand when finish gets tacky, will make a slurry which
will fill the grain to a slick finish. Heat either one before you apply it.
Also wait 24 hours between coats

Many thanks.

 

[Orson Carter]

Hi Bof,
Is that boiled or raw Linseedoil?
Also, if using a ROS is it necessary to heat the components of the stain, or can you rely upon the friction of the sander?

Regards,

Orson

 

[jimmiet.]

linseed oil

boiled linseed oil, spar varnish & pur gum turpintine

 

[Orson Carter]

Thank you.:icon_smile: