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40T ATB came with jet TS, but looking for suggestions as replacement blade since I figure the OEM is just average? Looking for all around cutting rip/cross? I have a 80T for ply...
 

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40T ATB came with jet TS, but looking for suggestions as replacement blade since I figure the OEM is just average? Looking for all around cutting rip/cross? I have a 80T for ply...
My 'go to' blade is the Forrest WW10407125 Woodworker II 10-Inch 40 Tooth. I don't recall cutting plywood with it, as I seldom use plywood. This blade gives me a very nice finish.
 

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Bah humbug
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40T ATB came with jet TS, but looking for suggestions as replacement blade since I figure the OEM is just average? Looking for all around cutting rip/cross? I have a 80T for ply...
Do a search on WOODWORKINGTALK. There has been many discussions on table saw blades already.. in those topics are pricing and quality..
 

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Matter of choice. Personally I'm not a fan of combo blades, not when it takes me 1.5 minutes to change one.

IMO a basic set up is 60T crosscut and 24T flat top rip, not only for ripping but plowing flat grooves.

I have a WWII & yes it does double as a crosscut and rip, as will many other brands of blades - until they get dull. But $130 for a blade is an issue for a lot of people. Truthfully I wouldn't own one if I hadn't gotten it for $20 at an estate sale.

Take a look at CMT. Its about all I use (router bits, too). IMO they stay sharper longer than Freud.

That said, one of the nicest blades I have is a Freud 40T glue line rip - the chrome one, not the red (as long as it stays sharp ;)).
 

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Egg Spurt
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Last blades I bought were CMT industrial orange blades from Taytools.com.. For around $60 I've had no problem at all with them.. The orange is just in the middle..They do sell blades that are orange kind of like Diablo, but I prefer the industrial models without the paint on the cutting area..and they do carry flat ground blades for the same as the funky v-cut blades. (sorry. I'm all out of acronyms at the moment)
 

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Ancient Termite
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OK, lets talk reality.

What are your intended results?

Oh, here is a glue joint blade. Well, usually but not this time perfectly. Out comes the sanding block and touch things up.

Oh, here is an expensive, premium, almost next to God blade. Out comes the sanding block and touch things up.

Oh, here is that cheap combination blade from the home center. Out comes the sanding block and touch things up.

The point is that you will have to sand a bit. You have to look at it this way. You are going to do all kinds of cuts. You want these cuts to work well with your table saw. The first two blades mentioned work very well up to about ¾ inch thickness. Above that, yeah they work but the going gets tougher as the thickness increases. The combination blade does most of these cuts almost as well as any of the others AND you can buy two combination blades for the price of some others. But the down side is that you still have to sand.

The solution is to align your table saw as close to perfection as humanly possible. The alignment is far more important than which blade.

There is one exception. When working with reclaimed wood be it pallet or flooring, use a nail finder blade. When cutting the reclaimed wood down to workable size, when you see sparks you can laugh. Why, you just destroyed cheap, Harbor Freight blade at about $10 and not your good blade.
 

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Bah humbug
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40T ATB came with jet TS, but looking for suggestions as replacement blade since I figure the OEM is just average? Looking for all around cutting rip/cross? I have a 80T for ply...
Question is are you willing to pay to have it sharpened?

Do you have a trusted local sharpener?

Pay for a WWll? Will you pay to have it sharpened?

Cheaper blade run till its dull, toss or buy a nice blade and have sharpened?

What say you?
 

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Local pro sharpener charges $12 for any saw blade, and $12 for jointer & planer blades. I use $30 blades on one saw for all purpose cutting and for reclaimed lumber, which I do a lot of. WWII blade on the other saw for fine, finish, clean cutting. At $12 each, I have no problem having a $30 blade sharpened. He charges a nominal additionally fee for repairing a broken tooth/teeth. He checks the balance and/or warpage of/on the blades, also... advises when to discard faulty ones. He sharpens my upholstery shears, as well.

Sonny
 

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Nine Thumbs
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"Question is are you willing to pay to have it sharpened?
Do you have a trusted local sharpener?
Pay for a WWll? Will you pay to have it sharpened?
Cheaper blade run till its dull, toss or buy a nice blade and have sharpened?..."

That's the sixty four dollar question.
Lately I've been buying the Craftsman blades from Lowes, And I like em!
They appear to be sharp enough for me, and I won't have a stroke if I hit an embedded piece of metal (which I do from time to time) or it wears out.
 

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Bah humbug
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That was the problem I had with Freud, it didn't last near as long as Amana and I the long run it would cost more to maintain it. So the correct blades make a difference in the long run...
 

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When I started cutting a lot of plywood last month for my shop build I ended up looking for and eventually purchasing a High Alternate Top Bevel (HiATB) Tooth Design. I would have gone with Forrest or Amana but no one had them in stock it it looked like it could be months before they were back in stock. It took a while but I eventually found someone that had the Freud HiATB blade in stock and I ended up purchasing it. That blade definitely improved the quality of my cuts and eliminated plywood splintering on my cuts.

I now have three main blades I use on my table saw and all of them are Freud's. Here is what I use:

-- Freud 10" x 40T Next Generation Premier Fusion General Purpose Blade for Crosscuts
-- Freud 10" x 30T Industrial Glue Line Ripping Blade
-- Freud 10" x 80T Ultimate Plywood & Melamine Blade

These blades were all around $80 and I'm sure they're not as high quality as the Forrest or Amana blades but I think they're a good value for the money.
 

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Bah humbug
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Not all Amana blades are high priced. It comes down to how long they cut between sharpening. A pro shop has to keep this mind when making these purchases..
 

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where's my table saw?
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Get a cheap Home Depot 10" 40 tooth Diablo blade like I used for 3 years and if it doesn't work like you want, you are only out $30.00. Mine was "retired" because I wanted to try out the 50 tooth blade recommend by a buddy, even though the 40 tooth was still working fine after 3 years or more of home shop, regular usage.
 

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40T ATB came with jet TS, but looking for suggestions as replacement blade since I figure the OEM is just average? Looking for all around cutting rip/cross? I have a 80T for ply...
I have been using Forrest blades for over 40 years. I have blades that are well over 20 years old and have been sharpened numerous times. Outside of using excellent grade carbide, which outlasts most other blades, their plates are amazingly flat. When you send your blade back for sharpening, which few other manufacturers offer, they will true the plate, braze on any new teeth needed, and sharpen. You do not get that service from too many companies. I made a dumb move to save money ( which always happens when I try to save money) and purchased a Freud stacked dado set. It was supposed to be excellent for veneer plywoods. Well, it sucked. I called Forrest and asked if they could re-grind the blades and set it up to their standards, and they did. The blade came back 10 times better than new out of the box. So in my opinion, yea they are $130 for a WWII, but for me the quality, longevity, and service are money well spent.
 

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Bah humbug
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I found Forrest blades, Tenryu, etc all pretty expensive. I've never had any shop put money in a Forrest but many bought the .Tenryu. I've got a few expensive blades, new but still use my Amana blades as they cut just fine...Some are Delta blades I believe we're made by Leitz. If I spelled that correct...
 

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where's my table saw?
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Table saw blades are "consumable" and there is never only one correct one. You need about three, a rip with 24 teeth, a multipurpose with 40 or 50 teeth and a crosscut with 60 or 80 teeth. I recommend starting at the low end and working your way up to more expensive ones IF.... that turns out to be required? If you start with low cost and they work for your requirements, then why spends extra the money? You get sharpened them at the same cost as more expensive ones, at .??$ per tooth until there's not enough tooth left to sharpen, then they get pitched or made into shop clocks?
Sharpening rates:
I use Diablo in those 3 sizes, but I have a file drawer full of more expensive brands that remain unused.

This guy WD Quinn,a.k.a. tripllechip, is a member here:
 

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Thanks for your input.

I have a file drawer full of more expensive brands that remain unused.
Why is that the case? I would think you'd at least test them.

I've been in the habit of only using one blade on my little DeWalt 10" TS, hope to get a Sawstop contractor this summer, I should get in the habit of knowing when to switch blades and doing it. The SS brake has to be the correct distance from the blade, so I'd like the blades to have the same diameter so the brake doesn't need readjusting. Not all 10" blades are exactly 10" are they? I suppose getting the same brand helps?
 

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Bah humbug
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That's the reason I stick with one brand.

I dont get caught up in this or that.

I like golf but I swing bad with all.of them. So I just stick with Ping
 

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where's my table saw?
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woodnthings said:
"I have a file drawer full of more expensive brands that remain unused."

Thanks for your input.
Why is that the case? I would think you'd at least test them.
It is a collection accumulated over a span of 40 years or more. Blades would go on sale at various sites at rates that were too good to pass on. Ebay had some great deals as well. Then along came Freud's Diablo line which was "promoted" at Home Depot right in the main saw aisle. I tried them out a long time back and since they were a reasonable price, I got several variations in tooth count and they all worked well for my requirements. They all did the job for me so I got several more and unexpectedly, they lasted longer than I would have predicted! I used the 40 tooth one for 3 years and it didn't seem to degrade in performance. So, the others still remain in the drawer waiting for the Diablos to get dull enough to be replaced.
Frankly, I'm also not doing as much woodworking as I did 20 years ago either, with large scale remodeling projects and friends with projects to complete. I got into furniture restoration work and that doesn't consume as much lumber as full blown cabinets. My lumber stash far exceeds my need for any large quantities and it was a result of milling trees taken down in the neighborhood and on my own land.
 
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Egg Spurt
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I'm gonna stick with the middle of the road pricewise with CMT's Orange Industrial blades.. I've run all kind of stuff through them with zero issues to date. I really don't like painted blades..They seem to have a way of leaving paint right where I don't want it to be at the most inopportune times..
 
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