Woodworking Talk banner
1 - 6 of 6 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,455 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
My stepfather owns a floor covering store, and he occasionally drafts me to make him reducer moldings when the readily available sizes & profiles won't fit the bill. It's way easier to make one than you might think. Just thought I'd share my process.

I started by face gluing 2 pcs of 3/4" thick red oak together to get my thickness. Then I flattened one face & jointed one edge.
Next I laid out the dimensions on one end



Rectangle Wood Wallet Finger


I determined what thickness I would need to make the strip which I attach to the bottom of the piece with countersunk screws, like this:



Ruler Wood Tool




Cardboard Box Wood Paper product Paper



The way it sits is the way it rides thru the planer. My strip is 1 & 3/8" thick, and I have 1/4" of material left after planing so I attached it with 1 & 1/2" screws. That leaves 1/8" of material before I could plane into the screws. That would be bad.



Furniture Room Wood Machine Vehicle


Then I run it thru the planer until I hit my line.

Used the table saw to cut the rabbet, 1st cut on edge and 2nd cut flat. Then I sanded it all out to 150 and eased the sharp corners.


And there you have it.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,455 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
cabinetman said:
Looks good, came out the way you wanted. I use similar methods. The problem at times with some grade changes is that a ramp type moulding for elevation change could be more of a hazard than just a step.






.
I agree. I was making this molding per the specs given to me. Personally, I think it's too steep but what the hell do I know *laughing!*
Did a restaurant remodel about 5 years ago and ran into a similar situation, 1" difference between floor heights. Due to ADA requiring a 1/12 pitch for wheelchair accessibility, the reducer had to be 12" wide! Good times...

gideon said:
slick!

how do you like the ridgid planer?
The rigid is ok. Not great, but not bad either. It snipes like crazy, so either ya gotta use a sacrificial board before & after the workpiece, or cut your stock 6" longer than what you need & cut out the 2.5" of snipe on either end. I've had it 3 years now and the bearings on the cutterhead (or motor, not sure which yet) started to scream last week. Needless to say I'm now in the market for a new planer. Looking to upgrade anyway...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Another temp solution

So as not to risk planer v. fastener situations, I have used both hot glue and double sided tape.
I was charged with a very similar task recently, fortunately the transition was achievable in a single 1x...
It goes against my grain to buy something I can make in less time than it takes to go to the store and back (that and the fact that I can be tighter than a second coat of paint) :)
Well done...
 
1 - 6 of 6 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top