[03svtsnakevert]

I made this laundry sorter for my wife, but wanted to do something to hide the end grain...I thought about doing some mitered molding around the top but don't know how to hide the side end grain...this piece will be painted

Thanks in advance!

 

[Steve Neul]

Since it is painted there are several ways you could hide the edges. You could put some veneer tape on the edges. It comes in birch which you could apply with a hot iron and trim. Once sanded the edge would paint probably better than the face of the plywood since it is pine. The end grain on the 1x4's on the inside you could just fill with woodputty or bondo and sand it. If you didn't want to veneer tape the edges you could fill it with bondo and sand it. You might need bondo anyway for the knots in the plywood. Since it is pine I would coat the knots with zinsser sealcoat in case it bleeds sap.

 

[03svtsnakevert]

Since it is painted there are several ways you could hide the edges. You could put some veneer tape on the edges. It comes in birch which you could apply with a hot iron and trim. Once sanded the edge would paint probably better than the face of the plywood since it is pine. The end grain on the 1x4's on the inside you could just fill with woodputty or bondo and sand it. If you didn't want to veneer tape the edges you could fill it with bondo and sand it. You might need bondo anyway for the knots in the plywood. Since it is pine I would coat the knots with zinsser sealcoat in case it bleeds sap.

Hmmm def some options there...the veneer tape would paint no problem? And would you do the trim around the top or no?

 

[Steve Neul]

The veneer tape would be a bit awkward to apply and trim since the cabinet is assembled but it would paint just like you want. It is wood veneer with hot melt glue on the back side of it. You can use a iron like you iron clothes with to iron it on. Just go slow and give the heat time to penetrate the veneer. It is helpful too if you use a rubber roller right after the iron to stick it down. Before trimming I usually pull at it slightly to make sure there is no missed spots. Usually when you use veneer tape the edges are taped and trimmed and sanded prior to assembly. It would be worth the trouble though.

I believe if I were going to add molding to the top I would build the top up thicker for some chair rail or similar molding. The 1/2" thickness of the plywood top you have now is really too thin for molding. Then if you are going that route you might consider building some kind of base trim under it.

 

[03svtsnakevert]

The veneer tape would be a bit awkward to apply and trim since the cabinet is assembled but it would paint just like you want. It is wood veneer with hot melt glue on the back side of it. You can use a iron like you iron clothes with to iron it on. Just go slow and give the heat time to penetrate the veneer. It is helpful too if you use a rubber roller right after the iron to stick it down. Before trimming I usually pull at it slightly to make sure there is no missed spots. Usually when you use veneer tape the edges are taped and trimmed and sanded prior to assembly. It would be worth the trouble though. I believe if I were going to add molding to the top I would build the top up thicker for some chair rail or similar molding. The 1/2" thickness of the plywood top you have now is really too thin for molding. Then if you are going that route you might consider building some kind of base trim under it.

Ok...boy I can tell I have a lot to learn...I did sand with 180...when you say build up, what do you mean and I assume I would have to do the same with the bottom

 

[Steve Neul]

This is what I was thinking. Of course the dimensions would change depending on the molding you use and I don't know if you could live with the additional height.

 

[03svtsnakevert]

This is what I was thinking. Of course the dimensions would change depending on the molding you use and I don't know if you could live with the additional height.

Wow! First of all Thank you for taking the time with the sketch...it sure helps me understand...it looks like it would add approximately 2.75" in height correct?

 

[Steve Neul]

Wow! First of all Thank you for taking the time with the sketch...it sure helps me understand...it looks like it would add approximately 2.75" in height correct?

As drawn it would add 1 1/4" to the height if you use the top only. With the base too it would add 4 3/4".

 

[03svtsnakevert]

As drawn it would add 1 1/4" to the height if you use the top only. With the base too it would add 4 3/4".

Duh...lol I was looking at the 2x4 wrong...the 1/2 x3 filler on too are you extending that over the edge?

 

[03svtsnakevert]

Duh...lol I was looking at the 2x4 wrong...the 1/2 x3 filler on too are you extending that over the edge?

Or is it flush?

 

[Steve Neul]

Or is it flush?

It could be done either way. You could overhang the top a 1/4" on each side and the front and make the top to fit. You could also make the filler out of 3/4" stock if you want to make the top out ouf 1/2" plywood. The dimentio I would just use some extra blocking in the center if you use 1/2" for the top. The thickness of the filler would just be determined by the thickness of the plywood and the molding you apply on it. You would just need to find some molding you like first and then go from there.

 

[03svtsnakevert]

It could be done either way. You could overhang the top a 1/4" on each side and the front and make the top to fit. You could also make the filler out of 3/4" stock if you want to make the top out ouf 1/2" plywood. The dimentio I would just use some extra blocking in the center if you use 1/2" for the top. The thickness of the filler would just be determined by the thickness of the plywood and the molding you apply on it. You would just need to find some molding you like first and then go from there.

Ok...I will look at some molding today and see if I can figure something out