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None of these questions pertain to the paint-room. THAT side of shop has its own dedicated compressor and moisture separator / air filter setup and it works fine... Much nicer than 'Shop' side compressor stuff.
This has to do with the 'Woodworking' side of the shop and trying to get it set up 'better' than it was before. Would appreciate if some of you guys with bigger and better shops could chime in and offer advice... :thumbsup:
Currently running an Ingersol Rand 2475 series, 7.5hp, 80gallon, 230 volt, 175 psi (max) Air Compressor for the shop. We have burnt it up a few times but 'finally' got it all sorted out and running stronger than ever! Have it hardwired pretty much directly to the 50 amp breaker (more than it 'needed' to start or run) in the panel with HEAVY guage wire (heavier than needed) and since the last rebuild by a 'good' electrician the capacitors have been upgraded and are what our electrician says the thing 'should' have come with from the factory. (He claimed the factory 'skimped' and did it wrong - All I know is that it starts and runs a LOT 'stronger' now and this was even before we redid / upgraded to the 50 amp breaker and heavier guage connections to it. We added one more starting capacitor to the mix and upgraded the running capacitors if I recall correctly - I am NOT an electrician...)
Did not previously even HAVE a functional moisture separator on this compressor and would occasionally get a shower of nastiness come through the lines. Really SUCKED if I was trying to blow the dust off ME or one of the dogs when this crp would happen! :furious:
This is where my questions start... :yes:
Recently got a really nice DeVilbiss Moisture Separator / Air filter / Air Control Unit for the 'Woodworking' side of shop. I looked at the DeVilbiss chart / piping guide http://www.finishingbrands.com.pl/p...0515930 [email protected] (166).pdf but I wanted to do it a bit differently and use a separate 60 gallon air tank at each air drop and have the DeVilbiss filters and separators mounted on THOSE tanks instead of at the end of a pipe coming from the main compressor... (FWIW - First Cabinet Shop that I ever worked in was set up EXACTLY like that diagram above... Their compressor was HUGE (made our 80 gallon IRand look like a toy) and in it's own building just outside the shop)
We already have the additional 60 gallon tanks (from compressors we killed LONG ago) and I already got one of them cleaned up and ready for use. I got the motor and pump off, got the fittings all sorted out to be connected to the main line from the shop compressor and got the DeVilbiss separator / filter installed. Air from the shop line (Ingersol Rand Compressor) comes in from the top like it used to from the compressors original pump and then goes out the side like before but through a DeVilbiss filter to a block with a few quick connect fittings on it... From there - Airlines go to individual tools / machines...
For now - I have the one 80 gallon tank on the main shop compressor with a block on the side of it that has 3 female 'quick connect' fittings. One of these fittings is getting plumbed to go about 20' over to the 'spare' 60 gallon tank (this is the tank with the filter / separator attached) that I stuck next to our new FaceFrame Table and PocketHole Boring machine. Both these machines use airholds and such to operate and 'need' relatively clean air to keep from gumming up the works and costing more money in repairs to their parts down the road. This tool for one:
Plan to soon extend the plumbing from the main compressor to another 60 gallon tank at the very far end of the shop with it's own separator / filter and use it to run other tools than 'should' have clean air.
Currently using 3/8" airline for the 'piping' of the air from the main compressor to the individual tanks but plan to eventually have 1" iron pipe like the shop I worked in long ago...
Considering what I have now (and pretend I have 'real' 1" iron pipe plumbing all this stuff with the appropriate drains at the bottom of each air drop before going into the 60 gallon tanks), What else do I need to be thinking about to improve here???
Would 'like' to have the additional tanks and air 'storage' in the separate 60 gallon tanks for those times when one guy is 'working' and 3 other guys decide to start blowing **** off and get ready to go home. Figure the extra storage could allow the one guy to keep on working without interruption of air supply??? Also figure the additional tanks could help give the air a place and TIME to cool down and help remove moisture / allow it to 'settle' to the bottom of the tank instead of getting sprayed out the tool...
How can I make this 'better' or improve it without buying a bigger and larger main shop compressor???
The one we have is GTG and won't die anytime soon. I can't see that motor or pump 'crying' because it had to fill 200 gallon of tanks in the morning... :no:
Princess waiting to be 'blown off' so we can go home...
Appreciate the advice if you guys got the time... :smile:
This has to do with the 'Woodworking' side of the shop and trying to get it set up 'better' than it was before. Would appreciate if some of you guys with bigger and better shops could chime in and offer advice... :thumbsup:
Currently running an Ingersol Rand 2475 series, 7.5hp, 80gallon, 230 volt, 175 psi (max) Air Compressor for the shop. We have burnt it up a few times but 'finally' got it all sorted out and running stronger than ever! Have it hardwired pretty much directly to the 50 amp breaker (more than it 'needed' to start or run) in the panel with HEAVY guage wire (heavier than needed) and since the last rebuild by a 'good' electrician the capacitors have been upgraded and are what our electrician says the thing 'should' have come with from the factory. (He claimed the factory 'skimped' and did it wrong - All I know is that it starts and runs a LOT 'stronger' now and this was even before we redid / upgraded to the 50 amp breaker and heavier guage connections to it. We added one more starting capacitor to the mix and upgraded the running capacitors if I recall correctly - I am NOT an electrician...)
Did not previously even HAVE a functional moisture separator on this compressor and would occasionally get a shower of nastiness come through the lines. Really SUCKED if I was trying to blow the dust off ME or one of the dogs when this crp would happen! :furious:
This is where my questions start... :yes:
Recently got a really nice DeVilbiss Moisture Separator / Air filter / Air Control Unit for the 'Woodworking' side of shop. I looked at the DeVilbiss chart / piping guide http://www.finishingbrands.com.pl/p...0515930 [email protected] (166).pdf but I wanted to do it a bit differently and use a separate 60 gallon air tank at each air drop and have the DeVilbiss filters and separators mounted on THOSE tanks instead of at the end of a pipe coming from the main compressor... (FWIW - First Cabinet Shop that I ever worked in was set up EXACTLY like that diagram above... Their compressor was HUGE (made our 80 gallon IRand look like a toy) and in it's own building just outside the shop)
We already have the additional 60 gallon tanks (from compressors we killed LONG ago) and I already got one of them cleaned up and ready for use. I got the motor and pump off, got the fittings all sorted out to be connected to the main line from the shop compressor and got the DeVilbiss separator / filter installed. Air from the shop line (Ingersol Rand Compressor) comes in from the top like it used to from the compressors original pump and then goes out the side like before but through a DeVilbiss filter to a block with a few quick connect fittings on it... From there - Airlines go to individual tools / machines...
For now - I have the one 80 gallon tank on the main shop compressor with a block on the side of it that has 3 female 'quick connect' fittings. One of these fittings is getting plumbed to go about 20' over to the 'spare' 60 gallon tank (this is the tank with the filter / separator attached) that I stuck next to our new FaceFrame Table and PocketHole Boring machine. Both these machines use airholds and such to operate and 'need' relatively clean air to keep from gumming up the works and costing more money in repairs to their parts down the road. This tool for one:

Plan to soon extend the plumbing from the main compressor to another 60 gallon tank at the very far end of the shop with it's own separator / filter and use it to run other tools than 'should' have clean air.
Currently using 3/8" airline for the 'piping' of the air from the main compressor to the individual tanks but plan to eventually have 1" iron pipe like the shop I worked in long ago...
Considering what I have now (and pretend I have 'real' 1" iron pipe plumbing all this stuff with the appropriate drains at the bottom of each air drop before going into the 60 gallon tanks), What else do I need to be thinking about to improve here???
Would 'like' to have the additional tanks and air 'storage' in the separate 60 gallon tanks for those times when one guy is 'working' and 3 other guys decide to start blowing **** off and get ready to go home. Figure the extra storage could allow the one guy to keep on working without interruption of air supply??? Also figure the additional tanks could help give the air a place and TIME to cool down and help remove moisture / allow it to 'settle' to the bottom of the tank instead of getting sprayed out the tool...
How can I make this 'better' or improve it without buying a bigger and larger main shop compressor???
The one we have is GTG and won't die anytime soon. I can't see that motor or pump 'crying' because it had to fill 200 gallon of tanks in the morning... :no:
Princess waiting to be 'blown off' so we can go home...

Appreciate the advice if you guys got the time... :smile: