Curious what you used?! I'm making a white oak dining table and also looking for the raw unfinished wood look...Just came across Loba 2K Invisible Protect but not exactly sure what it is and whether it would be good for a table or not.
Protected, Unfinished Look: floor finisher vs poly vs acrylic lacquer
I'm building a coffee table, media console and dressers, all out of Baltic Birch plywood. I'd like to have the furniture look unfinished yet be somewhat protected from impacts/scratching and water stains. I'd like to avoid any yellowing.
My neighbors finished their floors with Loba 2k Invisible Protect, and the results look amazing. This stuff is really expensive though, at $100 per gallon.
http://www.loba.de/en/products/wate...finishes/product/2k-invisible-protect-at.html
Other options I am leaning towards are SHER-WOOD CAB-Acrylic Lacquer, AFM Safecoat AcriGlaze Matte, and matte polyurethane.
Would appreciate any thoughts!
My neighbors finished their floors with Loba 2k Invisible Protect, and the results look amazing. This stuff is really expensive though, at $100 per gallon.
http://www.loba.de/en/products/wate...finishes/product/2k-invisible-protect-at.html
Other options I am leaning towards are SHER-WOOD CAB-Acrylic Lacquer, AFM Safecoat AcriGlaze Matte, and matte polyurethane.
Would appreciate any thoughts!
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The problem with raw looking is the finish would be thin. Even if the finishing product is waterproof using it thin you won't get the benefit. While it might hold up to daily use you would have to be careful to keep wet objects off the furniture.
It's mainly an oil based varnish you have to worry about yellowing. While the nitrocellulose lacquer will yellow over time the cab-acrylic lacquer is made from plastic resins which would remain clear and not yellow. Still the water based floor finish would be a harder more durable finish than the cab-acrylic lacquer. The cab-acrylic lacquer would just be a lot less work. The water in a waterborne finish raises the grain causing a lot more coats and extra sanding between coats. I'm not sure you could get the raw look with that finish and have it smooth too.
It's mainly an oil based varnish you have to worry about yellowing. While the nitrocellulose lacquer will yellow over time the cab-acrylic lacquer is made from plastic resins which would remain clear and not yellow. Still the water based floor finish would be a harder more durable finish than the cab-acrylic lacquer. The cab-acrylic lacquer would just be a lot less work. The water in a waterborne finish raises the grain causing a lot more coats and extra sanding between coats. I'm not sure you could get the raw look with that finish and have it smooth too.
1 - 3 of 3 Posts
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