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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
So I'm building a desk and this drawer isn't lining up and I cannot figure out why.

Most of this is square, the framework, the drawer, the glides - it all measures up with exception to one rail. So one rail with the glide 22 3/8 while the other is 22 1/2". The drawer rests flush on the 22 1/2" end and sticks out 5/16" on the 22 3/8" end.

So, should I cut that 22 1/2" rail out and replace it with one that matches the other? Would this even matter?

I've never had this happen before, so strange and I just can't figure it out unless it is as simple as that 1/8" translating to 5/16" over 26" distance...

I'm at a loss here. As always I thank you all for thinking this over and providing guidance.
 

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So I'm building a desk and this drawer isn't lining up and I cannot figure out why.

Most of this is square, the framework, the drawer, the glides - it all measures up with exception to one rail. So one rail with the glide 22 3/8 while the other is 22 1/2". The drawer rests flush on the 22 1/2" end and sticks out 5/16" on the 22 3/8" end.

So, should I cut that 22 1/2" rail out and replace it with one that matches the other? Would this even matter?

I've never had this happen before, so strange and I just can't figure it out unless it is as simple as that 1/8" translating to 5/16" over 26" distance...

I'm at a loss here. As always I thank you all for thinking this over and providing guidance.
I'm looking at your pictures and really can't figure out what you have there. You say there's a drawer there. I don't see a drawer. I see some kind of frame. Do you have some kind of drawing for what the finished product will look like?






.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I'm looking at your pictures and really can't figure out what you have there. You say there's a drawer there. I don't see a drawer. I see some kind of frame. Do you have some kind of drawing for what the finished product will look like?







.

It's a shallow drwer in the middle - walnut front, maple sides and back. the half dovetails shots are of the drawer.

The overall frame is for a desk.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Shortening it may not help.

I would say the problem lies in the framework not being square or the drawer not being square, or both. :smile:

checking and rechecking, it is square. only issue being that rail being 1/8" longer. I'm guessing that that must be it.

I would love to break it loose but it's already glued in.
 

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It's a shallow drwer in the middle - walnut front, maple sides and back. the half dovetails shots are of the drawer.

The overall frame is for a desk.
The sides should be the same. If one is longer, you can expect some protrusion. Did you check a corner to corner length for a match on both the frame and the drawer?







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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The sides should be the same. If one is longer, you can expect some protrusion. Did you check a corner to corner length for a match on both the frame and the drawer?







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I did, both the drawer and the interior recess it's going into. Both were off by less than 1/16" - maybe 1/32".

In the meantime, I was able to pry loose the joints without damage. I cut the longer piece down and have some shims in there. TUrns out, the glue wasn't completely dry which is odd as I glued this up over the weekend using tightbond 2. I'm sure that's what happened.

I reset the piece, put the drawer in, drew the clamp tight and got it flush. I guess we'll see what happens now. Barring any more movement, I can get this done and tune as needed...

Now, here's the other question - how long should I keep this clamped to ensure a movement free fit? Should I load a screw in there to keep it in place (and cover with a plug of course)?
 

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As tight as the drawer box is to the frame, something has to be out of square. The easiest fix would be to clamp the drawer to the side members and grind the front flush with a belt sander. In the future it would help if you mounted the side members on wood members so you could adjust the back of the drawer left or right so you could always adjust them. Sometimes a cabinet will shift years later and it makes it nice to be able to adjust the drawer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
As tight as the drawer box is to the frame, something has to be out of square. The easiest fix would be to clamp the drawer to the side members and grind the front flush with a belt sander. In the future it would help if you mounted the side members on wood members so you could adjust the back of the drawer left or right so you could always adjust them. Sometimes a cabinet will shift years later and it makes it nice to be able to adjust the drawer.

the way it's clamped up now, the back of the drawer reads 4 1/4" all the way across. my squares don't move at all on all the other points of the frame. this thing is good except to the 1/32" bit thats off and I think thats within tolerance - no?

In the mean time, can you describe more what you mean about the wood members being adjustable?
 

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the way it's clamped up now, the back of the drawer reads 4 1/4" all the way across. my squares don't move at all on all the other points of the frame. this thing is good except to the 1/32" bit thats off and I think thats within tolerance - no?

In the mean time, can you describe more what you mean about the wood members being adjustable?
Sometimes a drawer can be out of square so slight you can't really see it and the cabinet may be very slightly off in the opposite direction. Then when you put them together you have a noticable difference. This is why, especially with inset drawers I try to make them adjustable.

The difference in the frame you could have made is with the two pieces of 8/4 walnut you have running front to back. Instead of mortising them into the back rail if you firmly mounted them in the front as you have done and let the back float loose you would be able to move them to the right so the left front would go inward. You could have put a rail connecting the two side members at the back and when you have it adjusted the way you like screw it to the back. Sometimes a drawer doesn't fit flush vertically and the front and it's easier to raise or lower the cabinet member when you install the drawer and if you let if float it's easy to adjust.
 

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the way it's clamped up now, the back of the drawer reads 4 1/4" all the way across. my squares don't move at all on all the other points of the frame. this thing is good except to the 1/32" bit thats off and I think thats within tolerance - no?
You say you have 1/32" off. That transposes to an out of square (or racking) for at least what's protruding. It doesn't seem like much, but for the distance it translates. I wouldn't go sanding off the front of the drawer to fit an out of square frame. Your cabinet isn't even together yet. Starting off with conditions like that will become obvious in other areas.

You can guide drawers on separate rails, to make them adjustable or able to be shimmed.







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