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Discussion Starter #1
Recently found this machine at an auction. It is in very good condition (1975 model), but has a 3 phase motor on it. Upon closer inspection, and reading the nameplate ratings of the motor, it is a 3/4 h.p., 3450 r.p.m. It has a magnetic starter, which my son has rewired to work as single phase. I'm wondering if maybe the motor was replaced at one time, and might be undersized.

Appreciate your input on this one.
 

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The powermatic 60 is a fine jointer. It was offered with many different motors like any other equipment. The most common range is 3/4 hp to 1 1/2 hp. Unless your son wired it to some kind of phase converter it has to have a single phase motor.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yes, we are replacing the three phase motor, with a single phase motor. I am looking for persons with the same jointer, and wonder what size motor is on theirs, and how they like it.
 

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Hey Cey, I just picked one of those up earlier this month. Mine has a 1 1/2 horsepower motor on single phase. Believe it was built in 1966, but i'm kind of guessing on that. I love mine. While the tables aren't the easiest to adjust, I'm brand new to jointers & it could be I've still got some adjusting to do I don't know about on the rod that pulls up & drops the infeed.

my overall bed length is 65" & 8" wide of course. The cutter head was never shimmed & is still perfectly in line (coplanar? with the infeed table. I watched a youtube on wood whisperer tuning up his parallelogram jointer w/ a veritas straight edge & a One Way Multi gauge, so I got those. The One Way is freaking awesome. It confirmed my suspicion that the guy who sold it to me didn't have it quite tuned right. One blade was 20 thousands of an inch on the user vs. fence side different. I was able to get those dialed in to +/- 1 thousandth using it.

The blades are nice freuds, but were definitely in need of a good sharpening so they're out doing that now, but even with in rough shape, I was able to make some really nice 90º angles from face to edge & very flat. The multi gage came in real handy for getting the fence a perfect 90º too. If you like I could wipe down the motor & snap a picture of the specs if it'll help you find one to replace yours with maybe?

Oh, also a side note. I found the manual online somewhere, it recommended NOT putting a motor bigger than 1 1/2HP into this machine. I'll see if i can find that & upload you a link.
A later version of the same manual is here w/ more detailed info: http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/655/4938.pdf
The earlier one I found and other resources maybe w your specific model will be found on this parent page: http://vintagemachinery.org/mfgindex/detail.aspx?id=655&tab=3
 

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The size of your motor needs would depend on how you use it. If you are just edge jointing wood up to 8/4 thickness then a 3/4 hp motor would work fine. When you run the face of lumber across the jointer especially if you are using a dense wood is when higher hp is needed. For that size jointer a 2 hp motor would do anything you would wish unless you are trying to take far more wood off per pass than you should.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Great responses!

I have all of the specs, and am considering motors from 3/4 to 1 1/2 h.p.. I never use a jointer for the face of lumber, as I have a planer for that purpose. The depth of cut I use is almost always 1/16". Usually set my table saw 1/16" above what I want the finished board to be, in width, rip, and joint.

xmas, sounds like you got a nice machine, also. I'd like to know if the one you got has a motor starter, in addition to the on/off switch?

Steve, I always appreciate your comments on here, you help a lot of persons to make wise decisions.

One other thing I'd like an opinion on......Getting my current jointer ready to sell, and want it to be in top shape. We've put new bearings in it, a new pulley, and had the blades sharpened. Since doing this work, when I joint the edge of a board, the last few inches "drop" into the cutterhead, leaving a dip in the end of the boards edge. What have I done wrong, or what can I do to fix this. It didn't do this before I worked on the jointer. The infeed/outfeed tables are in line with each other.
 

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Great responses!

I have all of the specs, and am considering motors from 3/4 to 1 1/2 h.p.. I never use a jointer for the face of lumber, as I have a planer for that purpose. The depth of cut I use is almost always 1/16". Usually set my table saw 1/16" above what I want the finished board to be, in width, rip, and joint.

xmas, sounds like you got a nice machine, also. I'd like to know if the one you got has a motor starter, in addition to the on/off switch?

Steve, I always appreciate your comments on here, you help a lot of persons to make wise decisions.

One other thing I'd like an opinion on......Getting my current jointer ready to sell, and want it to be in top shape. We've put new bearings in it, a new pulley, and had the blades sharpened. Since doing this work, when I joint the edge of a board, the last few inches "drop" into the cutterhead, leaving a dip in the end of the boards edge. What have I done wrong, or what can I do to fix this. It didn't do this before I worked on the jointer. The infeed/outfeed tables are in line with each other.
Most of the time I just use a jointer to edge joint with. There are times though a board is warped end to end or has a cup warp. The wood could be run on it's face to flatten the wood prior to sending it through a planer. I recently bought a 12" jointer to flatten the wood for entry door stiles.
 

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Cey, I do love it. I don't believe there is by secondary switch.. All I have on the outside is what appears to be a magnetic switch. Didn't see any additional switches inside the cabinet, though there is a few built in circuit breakers the guy told me about in the wiring box.
 
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