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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I thought someone might find the following useful. I just added the Benchdog router table extension to my table saw. And love it, it is excellent. I also bought the Benchdog aluminum router plate. I have a Porter Cable 7539 plunge router and needed a way to control the router lift. I want to add a genuine router lift in the future but I will have to purchase the 7518/7519 plus the router lift and couldn't justify the expense at this time for the limited amount of use. I had seen these plans somewhere so I can't take the credit. The 3/8 threaded bolt and T nut provides the lift mechanism. and holds the router bit securely in place. You simply turn the wheel to adust the bit up or down. I did have to add the aluminum angle iron to my Benchdog table but it already had predilled 1/4 holes to mount it to. Works great! Hope someone finds it useful. :thumbsup:
 

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Necessity is the mother of invention. Great job
 

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Vern,
That looks like the same saw I have. Is yours about 30 years old? One question on the lift, are you using it because you have a plunge router to counteract the spring pressure of the plunge mechanism? When I first got my router table years back, the only router I had to put in it was a dewalt 3 1/2hp plunger. It was always a pain to set the height because you were always trying to compress the spring and let it off for each adjustment. I fixed that finally be replacing that router with a fixed base milwaukee. Now it is easy and don't see a need for a lift mechanism. Just wondering,
Mike Hawkins;)
 

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I'm using this idea for more than 10 years but first time that I see that also somebody else is using it.
Very nice job.

I'm using 1/4" threaded rod for finer adjustment

This is my old router table
RT7.jpg


And that's the new one...The large hole is for a "pedal" or "out of the table router lift" installation
RT019.jpg 035.jpg

Regards
niki
 

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Nice work VD. I've seen an example of someone who actually rigged a small B&D type power driver to a rig similar to this, and used it as a cordless DIY motorized lift.
 

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Verndog and Niki
This question would be for both of you. I understand how your plung router lift works and like the idea, but it look like the router is sitting on the lift with only gravity holding it down. Once you have your height set do you lock the router in place or is gravity enought to hold it in place. I have had my router walk up the edge of a board while using it in the upright position is why I was asking. My router table in a fixed box and I have to lift the router out to make ajustments and then set it back in the hole. I am useing a 2 1/2hp Craftsman none plung router in my router table.
 

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Once you have your height set do you lock the router in place or is gravity enought to hold it in place.
Oh yes, after I set the bit height, I always lock the "Plunge Lock" unless.......

I'm working with this "Router Lift" but than, the router is moving all the time up (and down)....I use it for mortising, lifting the bit gradually every pass till I reach the pre-set depth of the mortise.

Regards
niki
011.jpg

012.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Mike & Handyman,
Yes I have had my saw for around 30 years. At the time I upgraded to a 2 HP motor and I really like the saw. After all these years I just bought an Incra Miter Jig. Haven't used it yet but it sure looks like it will work great. I'm curious do you still use the standard fence system or did you upgrade to a Bessemyer, Incra, Rockler or something else? I have been looking at possibly upgrading the fence. That will cost now nearly what I paid for the saw 30 years ago.
On your other question that is the problem I was having is the plunge spring was always pushing down pretty hard in fact the lever lock will no longer even hold in place. I haven't tried to fix that because my device now hold it securly in place. Handyman brings up a good point but I think the spring pressure it enough to hold it down. I used it to route a table edge recently and it was fine but I will lock it in place with the stop rod when I do my raised panel doors with the large bit. Hanydyman thanks for bringing that to my attention I may have forgotton to set the stop. Eventually I will upgrade to a fixed base router and probably spring for a genuine benchdog router lift also.
Thanks to all for your advice and encourgement!:smile:
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Niki,
I really like the crank idea thanks for the pictures. Maybe I will rework it or go motorized like Knotscott mentioned.
 

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Ok Vern,
That's what I thought you guys were using the lift for. I had the same problem when I had my plunge router in the table. I got tired of fighting with it and bought the fixed base. I haven't upgraded anything on the saw except the belt with one of the leather link belts. Just tuned everything up the other day. Bought a new forrest rip blade. Realigned the fence, checked everything for square, parallel, etc. Works fine. The last tool show I was at I talked to the dewalt/delta reps about a better fence. Delta makes their own fence similar to a biesemeyer. Actually looks a little better to me. It was a lot less expensive. If memory serves me, around 150.00. They also have a separate riving knife available for our saws. They are made by a separate company for all the major brand saws. Looks like a good thing to update also.
Mike Hawkins;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Mike,
Now I'm showing my ignorance. What is a riving knife? That fence sounds a lot more reasonable. I think I may have seen one at Lowe's. The other fences I was looking at were running 500-600 bucks or better. Just haven't been able to justify that as the old standard seems pretty fair. Thanks for your input!
 

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Vern,
A riving knife is a separate curved piece that mounts behind the blade and helps to keep the kerf separated after the cut and prevent the board from binding on the blade. In the past they were part of the sawblade guard. The new large table saws after the first of this year are supposed to start coming with separate riving knives that can stay in place when you remove the blade guard to do a close cut or a dada. They don't stick up as high as the blade and are supposed to be able to stay in place when cutting a dado without getting in the way. Here's a link for one of them with an explanation:
http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/editorsblog/Riving+KnivesReport+From+AWFS+2007.aspx
Mike Hawkins;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Mike,
Thanks so much for the information on the riving knife. I have had that binding effect happen a couple of times and fortunately wasn't injured. One piece put a dent nearly through a piece of fireproof drywall that was placed over plywood. I could see how easy your fingers could get thrown into the blade under those circumstances. I will be on the lookout for one. The Delta should fit right on our saws. Thanks again!
 
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