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Discussion Starter #1
Hi,I've never used a pocket hole jig.After ya drill the pocket holes in the first piece do ya nedd to pre drill the second piece to prevent cracking the wood? Im using red oak! Also how do ya figure out how deep to drill and adjust the stop.I know rookie questions lol-Itchy
 

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If you using pocket screws then you don't need to drill a second hole. The screw actually will cut it's own hole.

As for adjusting the depth there are two rectangular pieces with the kit that have markings on them to help assist setting the depth. It's hard to describe without pictures and I don't have any saved to show you. Here is a link, go to page 6.

http://www.kregtool.com/information_center/manuals/Kreg_Jig_Quick_Start_Guide.pdf
 

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Make sure you use the fine screws for oak. They are for hardwood. You set up the drill bit so it just doesn't come through the wood. If the hole breaks though you will get more movement when you screw the pieces together than if you do it properly.
 

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Hey Leo! here we are again on a pocket hole thread.:laughing:

I have one thread type in my shop. I like the high low thread. It rarely splits the hardest woods and works fine in soft woods and partical board.

Leo is right that the finer thread works best in the harder woods though. You will see a bit less movement when you screw the 2 pieces together too.

We just don't want to stock more than one screw.

I'll see if I can scare up a link on the screw I'm referring to.
 

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I've never heard of the hi lo in the Kreg. Is it a 3rd party screw?
 

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I've never hearde of the hi lo in the Kreg. Is it a 3rd party screw?
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Not sure if this is what their refering to, McFeely's offer what they call a "Super Eight" Item # 0812-SPR for 1 1/4 or Item # 0814-SPR for 1 1/2. I just ordered some and haven't tried them yet.

RLH
 

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johnep
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After being converted to pocket holes by this forum, I purchased a small Kreg jig and the screws to go with it. They have a square recess which I understand is similar to the central recess in a pozidrive head. Name of the square drive is Robertson.

With regard to hard oak etc, I would be inclined to drill a pilot hole to be on safe side, using the jig pocket as a guide and well clamped to stop movement.
johnep
 

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Unless you are putting a screw within a half inch of the edge of the end of the board, no drilling is necessary. Maybe if you were using Hickory I would suggest it. But these screws are designed to do just this, no predrilling.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I didnt buy the Kreg model ph jig but did go buy the screws because they have a relief cut into then to relieve pressure the shavings would cause and perhaps crack the oak.Anyways face frame made with a few thousanths of sanding required for slight missalignment on the face.The pilot of the ph drill didnt go all the way thru the board so when I drove the screws the joint seperated maybe .o50" and then pulled up tight.Ill have to try another method of holding the face frame next time other than kneeling on it and pressing on the other board with hand pressure lol!It was easy to do and I bet its become a popular method of joinery---correct in my assumption?? Gary/Itchybrother-exit stage right---
 

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Are you using the Kreg clamp to hold the face frame pcs in the same plane? Plus you can use a clamp to squeeze them together, screw it and release the clamp. That will ususally give you almost no movement.
 

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I have not hade good resalts with krag clamps I use bar clamps to hold face fram to gather and put wax on sews in oak or hickery
 

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I've never heard of the hi lo in the Kreg. Is it a 3rd party screw?
I'm sorry for throwing a screw in the machinery:laughing:

I have been real busy today and have not found a link for the screw but the screws I use are made by QuickScrew. They call the thread pattern Hi Low. It can also be referred to as a combo screw. The thread pattern is basically made up of a coarse thread and a fine thread running parallel with each other. Thus the hi low thing.

We put 2 screws in a 1 1/2" frame part. So that puts a screw within 3/8" or so from the end of the styles all the time. Rarely does that pose a problem with splitting the style.
we build a ton of face frames. If it didn't work and work well we would do something different
 

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i just did a med size face frame in red oak using the kreg.. i did not drill the sec side and did not split.. that little piece of blue plastic cost way to much, but the same face frame a week prior took over 8 hours to hand cut mortise and tennon.. under an hour with the kreg... no i don't get paid (ever) for woodworking, but i can get the christmas list a little shorter, a little quicker
 

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Side question, I have requested the K3 for Christmas. Is there any advantage to the K4, it would seam the lock lever being in the front would be "more convenient". Any guys whom own one or the other see any advantage to either setup?
 

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I have the K3 Kreg Master System and would heartily recommend it to anyone. If you use a face frame clamp and a fine thread screw it will not split hard wood even 1/2 inch from the end. The pocket hole jig that is operated from the front is very nice and easy to use.
 

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Ill have to try another method of holding the face frame next time other than kneeling on it and pressing on the other board with hand pressure lol!It was easy to do and I bet its become a popular method of joinery---correct in my assumption?? Gary/Itchybrother-exit stage right---


Popular method of joinery...not in my book. Glue and clamps work pretty good. If it's impossible to use clamps, maybe, just maybe pocket screws.



 
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