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By rabbet bit I assume you are referring to a router bit. Any rabbet bit will do, but if you are going to get a rabbet bit for a router I'd get one of the sets with multiple bearings. That way you can change your router width. You could do it with a straight bit and a good fence on your router table too.

You could do this with hand tool options pretty quickly too. Probably quicker than a rabbet bit in the router and the time that setup takes. Also you'd avoid all the dust and noise.....just saying.
 

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When I make rabbets for picture frames I use a Stanley 78 I got on ebay. I usually only make small frames and it isn't worth the time to setup the router/router table. You can still buy them new, too, if you don't do eBay.

If you want a more premium plane, I would think this or this would be better than a shoulder plane. You can push a lot harder with a proper tote and peel off nice thick shavings.
 

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Alan Sweet
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If you do not have a router table.

A 2' x 4' sheet of 3/4" MDF, 2 saw horses, a good plunge router and a good rabbit bit. I like P-C 890 series router. They have a nice kit with interchangeable bases for plunge and fixed. Cut a hole for the router, mount it under neath, a dressed 2 x 4 for a fence (two clamps make it adjustable). I used that for a router table for a couple tears. (But I think P-C has this kit and a small table for less than $250 now).

Then I made a Bob Villa knock off. Which I have used for almost 10 years.
 

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I would avoid any operation where you have lots of sawdust from pallets--too many unknowns. Also, you are bound to find a hunk of metal in those pallet boards, or at least your bit or blade will find it and you will become abruptly aware!

Personally, I use two perpendicular cuts to notch stock for picture frames. It makes a lot of dust, but less than routing all of that. Again, pallet wood can be really nasty stuff. There are oodles of threads about it here and elsewhere on the inter webs.

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