Woodworking Talk banner

1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
185 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So last summer I bought this jig. Did a few test cuts , but never got anything decient with it. My main trouble I belive was that I only had a 1/4" router. Well todat I picked up a PC router from Menards. Anyhoo I gave it another shot, hoping it would be a littel better. I am kinda in a midel of a table end project, and am hoping to use blind dovetails on the drawer... Well here was my first attempt..

http://s238.photobucket.com/albums/ff317/dead_drift/woodworking/

Couldn't get any other pics to load into photobucket. Hope this works okay.. The second one I did was a littel proud, and slightly lose. Not sure what changed. At least I know know that it is possible.... Well I hope.
 

·
woodbutcherer
Joined
·
610 Posts
I don't see any pictures yet, but I have the same jig. I've done a lot of drawers with it. Sometimes it seems like a bear to set up, but it works pretty good.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
185 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Yeah I can not seems to figure why I am having trpuble with photobucket today. Always worked well in the past. Anyway I edited the first post with a direct link, hope that works.
 

·
HALL OF FAMER
Joined
·
8,374 Posts
The joint looks pretty good. I have the Leigh jig and set up is a breeze and the results are spectacular. My other dove tail jig is a cheapy and it was always a pain in the rump to set up and it never really gave any kind of satifactory results. Sounds like all you need is a little bit of fine tuning and you'll be banging out the half blind dove tail drawers in no time. Hang in there....anything worth doing is worth waiting for.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
185 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Yeah, well we'll see. I have only so much patience for this jig. And just can't get myself to speng 500 on one of the better one. But yeah this one isnt bad, why the next one wasn't as good beats me.. I'll play with it more tomarow.... lol
 

·
HALL OF FAMER
Joined
·
8,374 Posts
There are a lot of factors that can effect the joint when doing it with a router. Did you accidently adjust the depth of cut? Are the ends of the boards perfectly square? Were the boards clamps squarely in the jig before routing? Did they shift? Are the boards the same thickness? Is your router squarely approaching the boards or are you routing on an angle? Another thing to remember, is to hold your router in the same position while you rout all the joints. If the guide bushing is not perfect, rotating your router can change the way it works. A lot of factors at work here. Don't give up.
 

·
Hickabilly
Joined
·
536 Posts
When I was at PC I built a 4210 from old returned units and a few hand made parts. Worked pretty good. I gave it away when the newer model (4212 I think ) came out. Have not used it yet, but if i ever find my tuit, I have a lot of projects for it. Really wanted an Omnijig, but it wouldn't fit in my lunch box:laughing:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
344 Posts
To center your joint using this jig you need to size your parts accordingly. the PC uses 1" increments + 1/4". Your drawer heights will be for example 2-1/4", 3-1/4", 4-1/4" 5-1/4", 6-1/4" etc. If you have a 5" drawer opening you would use a 4-1/4" drawer height. This would give you a centered joint.

Your bit should be set at about 5/8" off the base of the router. You will be in the ballpark with this setting for a half-blind joint. You can fine tune from here. This gives 1/4" for the template thickness & 3/8" for the joint depth. The joint is referenced from the inside of the joint so once your bit is set you can machine half-blind dovetails from different thickness of stock from 1/2" to 1-1/8" without changing any settings. The joint will fit the same without adjustment. I make these with the same jig & I have a dedicated router that is always setup & never changed unless the bit gets dull.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
298 Posts
I got mine for a kitchen rebuild. It works very well. The first thing I discovered was, if you set it up using one pass and you go back over one joint, it will be looser. Also be sure to use a spacer block at the other end of the jig on both peaces. A small finish nail in the one for the vertical clamp will keep it from falling out when the clamp is released.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
185 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
jlord I love your drawers. How did you do the rabited blind dovetails? I have been reading about them but they seem confushing too pull off.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
344 Posts
jlord I love your drawers. How did you do the rabited blind dovetails? I have been reading about them but they seem confushing too pull off.
These in the pics are just regular half-blind dovetailed drawer boxes done in 5/8" hard maple. They have an applied front that is cherry. I did these with the PC jig. For a lipped joint where the front of the drawer box is also the exterior of drawer you would rabbet the front piece first then cut the pins.
http://www.portercable.com/jigs/dovetail/DovetailJigManual.pdf
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Top