Woodworking Talk banner

1 - 20 of 24 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
My husband and I will be finishing a couple of unfinished desks made of Parawood. Neither of us have ever finished anything before. We are wanting to stain them a very dark brown (Minwax Dark Mahogany). My dad suggested we use Danish Oil as a finish. I've read that it's a bit difficult to use Danish Oil over stain though. Anyone have any experience with this?

I see Danish Oil also makes oil mixed with a stain as well. My concern with that is the colors don't look very dark, and I'm afraid I'd end up with a piece of furniture much lighter than what I want. And then I thought maybe using the dark Minwax stain as a base, and then using the stained Danish oil might work well. Anyone ever tried this?

Any advise would be appreciated.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,023 Posts
My husband and I will be finishing a couple of unfinished desks made of Parawood. Neither of us have ever finished anything before. We are wanting to stain them a very dark brown (Minwax Dark Mahogany). My dad suggested we use Danish Oil as a finish. I've read that it's a bit difficult to use Danish Oil over stain though. Anyone have any experience with this?

I see Danish Oil also makes oil mixed with a stain as well. My concern with that is the colors don't look very dark, and I'm afraid I'd end up with a piece of furniture much lighter than what I want. And then I thought maybe using the dark Minwax stain as a base, and then using the stained Danish oil might work well. Anyone ever tried this?

Any advise would be appreciated.
I've seen dozens of post on other sites about parawood/rubberwood, that have been very problematic. Though it's touted as being a good wood for staining and easy to finish, being a softer wood it can easily blotch, meaning have patches of softer wood that absorb more of the color than other denser wood areas and cause dark areas not easily fixed or dealt with.

With all the suggestions I've read to fix this, none are really the answer to overcoming the problem. If using a wood conditioner you block off the wood to a degree where the stain can not produce the darker tones it would be able to if there were no barrier stopping it. If you don't put it on uniformly, then it can sometimes cause light and dark streaks when not wiped off properly.

If you carefully follow the conditioner directions, you can then have better assurance of even color, but again for darkness it limits you.

Although multiple coats of your chosen stain can darken it more if left to dry thoroughly between coats them, the look to me is very unsatisfactory as to final appearance when the clear coats are applied, especially on the darker colors. It's not something i believe you will stand back and look at after having spent quite some time in prepping the wood to insure good results, and exclaim how wonderful it turned out looks wise.

Since i hate minwax and others of that type, and especially since you are brand new to the world of finishing and perfect guinea pigs, and have not as yet dipped into the pool of heavily marketed and useless finishing products readily available at the big box stores and seem very intent on having your projects turn out as good as you can make them look, i will offer you better ways to do so if your interested.

Since i just posted my feelings on minwax and others on another post here, and how better methods and materials can be used and that the homeowner has the advantage of time on their side as to compared to someone who has to make a living doing so and needs to be as fast and efficient as possible in order to succeed, i find you the perfect candidates to show how concerned people will gladly try a better method of finishing if there is someone to provide them with the materials and knowledge to do so, By chance would that be you?

If so, then get back and let me know, if not, then there are others here I'm sure would love to help you with your decisions to use minwax and oils or have other suggestions and or cautions..

PS: what I'm offering will be more costly than what your planning to use, so be aware of that. Also, it will require a few more time consuming steps, than the quick and easy store stuff, but the results will also be far more satisfactory and pleasing than any of them. With that you will also have a system that will work just as well on any future projects you decide to undertake. So unless this is just a one time deal and you have no thoughts of ever or seldom doing again, it will be most beneficial in the long run ok?

Talk it over, think through it and let me know.

for further information on why i'm offering this see the post titled "oak finish is not dark enough - what now? which led me to my offer to you now. This will give you both some insite as to color problems and also let you know why i preffer other and better methods to insure problems like this don't become problems to begin with.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
If so, then get back and let me know, if not, then there are others here I'm sure would love to help you with your decisions to use minwax and oils or have other suggestions..

PS: what I'm offering will be more costly than what your planning to use, so be aware of that. Also, it will require a few more time consuming steps, than the quick and easy store stuff, but the results will also be far more satisfactory and pleasing than any of them. With that you will also have a system that will work just as well on any future projects you decide to undertake. So unless this is just a one time deal and you have no thoughts of ever or seldom doing again, it will be most beneficial in the long run ok?

Talk it over, think through it and let me know.
Well, I suppose it depends on exactly how costly we are talking here...
Yes, I'm fine with spending a little more money, and time. Yes, I'm ecstatic to not have to buy something from the big box stores. I try to never half-ass anything, so I'd welcome the advise. My only concern is how expensive you're talking about. Give me a ballpark estimate of cost, and I'll let you know whether it's feasible.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,023 Posts
Well, I suppose it depends on exactly how costly we are talking here...
Yes, I'm fine with spending a little more money, and time. Yes, I'm ecstatic to not have to buy something from the big box stores. I try to never half-ass anything, so I'd welcome the advise. My only concern is how expensive you're talking about. Give me a ballpark estimate of cost, and I'll let you know whether it's feasible.
First read the post i suggested in my edited reply at first, if you have not already ok? so you know why i'm offering this.


As to cost, it would be in the 100-150 dollar or so range, but keep in mind there would be left overs for any future projects ok. it's because some of the thing you can't buy in small amounts as to the reasons. a couple of items will be in gallons but with much left over. Those have no dated shelf life as to how long they last, mainly indefinitely if capped and sealed after use.

Glad to hear your wanting to do this as good as possible.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
First read the post i suggested in my edited reply at first, if you have not already ok? so you know why i'm offering this.
Yes, I read it in full. I agree with you in many ways. I understand you're also trying to make a point here. I'm fine with that. I'm glad someone is offering to help. Sealer, primer, toner, stain, dye, glaze, wax, shellac, varnish, laquer, oil. So confusing. I didn't even know parawood was a soft wood until you said so. The girl at the shop said it was a hardwood. And you wonder why people are out there doing projects the wrong way? Ha!

My thing is, I'd rather do it right the first time. I'd like to learn how to do it properly. If we have a good experience with this, then we have a number of other finishing/refinishing projects in mind that we intend to do.

$150 bucks to refinish pretty much as many items as we can fit in our house sounds fine to me.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,023 Posts
Yes, I read it in full. I agree with you in many ways. I understand you're also trying to make a point here. I'm fine with that. I'm glad someone is offering to help. Sealer, primer, toner, stain, dye, glaze, wax, shellac, varnish, lacquer, oil. So confusing. I didn't even know parawood was a soft wood until you said so. The girl at the shop said it was a hardwood. And you wonder why people are out there doing projects the wrong way? Ha!

My thing is, I'd rather do it right the first time. I'd like to learn how to do it properly. If we have a good experience with this, then we have a number of other finishing/refinishing projects in mind that we intend to do.

$150 bucks to refinish pretty much as many items as we can fit in our house sounds fine to me.
LOL, sorry Sarah, i didn't mean to make it sound like you would have gobs of leftovers to do many more projects with, i was only trying to convey the fact that it would not all be used up on your project your planning on now. Most of the color will be used but some of the thinner and other solvents will be left to differing degrees. As with anything those mostly used will have to be continually purchased as you go along from project to project, solvents will always be in more supply due to there larger amounts in gallon cans ok?

I don't want you to be disappointed in that sense when most of the color is used up ok? If your ecstatic with the outcome, of which I'm sure you will be seeing as it is a professional method used in furniture factory work by top companies like Baker or Widdicomb, then you can always buy, as my son has, in larger volumes and have it on hand in larger amounts so that you can get it cheaper than paying for smaller cans ok?

As to the wood being classified as hard it is, i mean the properties of the wood are more on the lines of softwoods as to blotchyness, not taking or absorbing the stain in a unifrom way ok?

It is more commonly know as the "rubbertree" because it is where we get laytex rubber from, the sap that is. The parawood nomenclature is used because it sound more appealing than condomtree does, lol. [joke, no offense]
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
No I didn't really think I'd be able to do the whole house or anything, but as you indicated I'd have much of what I would need for future projects.

So...how do I do this?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,023 Posts
No I didn't really think I'd be able to do the whole house or anything, but as you indicated I'd have much of what I would need for future projects.

So...how do I do this?
Sarah i have to go out shopping groceries i will be back in an hour or so to outline everything ok? soorry.
 

·
Log dog
Joined
·
7,935 Posts
chemmy said:
Sarah i have to go out shopping groceries i will be back in an hour or so to outline everything ok? soorry.
I see a pattern here chemmy. Lol
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,023 Posts
Patiently awaiting...
:icon_smile:
I aplogize sarah, still troubles with cabinet man i attended to, sorry.

Ok, first off i would like you to post pics of your project so i can see what were dealing with. From there i will send you to a site to pick a color of dye you think you wolud most like or if one is not quite right we can pick two to blend it ok? meanwhile i will make a list of what else you will need once i see the project and how best to go about it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Ok, I'll see about finding a picture of them online. We have them on order atm. They aren't supposed to be in for a couple more weeks. I might not get back to you until the morning.
 

·
Old School
Joined
·
24,027 Posts

Ok, I'll see about finding a picture of them online. We have them on order atm. They aren't supposed to be in for a couple more weeks. I might not get back to you until the morning.
With the time you have available, there are available stains and dyes that you can purchase in small amounts off the shelf, that may bring satisfactory results. Most are very easy and simple to work with. You can experiment with samples.

If you decide to give that a go, we can discuss their use.






.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,023 Posts
Tell you what Sarah, i'm not going to keep dealing with Cabinetman, he's taking this way to far, so i'm going to renig on my offer and you can deal with him. I'm not interested in proving anything any more. I hope to hear your job went well.

sincerely, regrets

Chemmy.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
Tell you what Sarah, i'm not going to keep dealing with Cabinetman, he's taking this way to far, so i'm going to renig on my offer and you can deal with him. I'm not interested in proving anything any more. I hope to hear your job went well.

sincerely, regrets

Chemmy.
Well that is quite unfortunate. I'd really like to learn how to do this properly. If you have any alternate sources you would suggest I use (book, internet site) I would appreciate it.
 

·
Old School
Joined
·
24,027 Posts
Well that is quite unfortunate. I'd really like to learn how to do this properly. If you have any alternate sources you would suggest I use (book, internet site) I would appreciate it.
Yes, that is unfortunate. I don't understand his statement about "dealing with me". Forums provide the format for getting different opinions and responses. Maybe that's what he meant.






.
 
1 - 20 of 24 Posts
Top