[Gary Thomas]

I'm making an over the table dust hood for my table saw. I've already made the run from the side of the saw to the blade, just pvc pipe and fittings and now need to make the hood. I'm using some 3/8 acrylic plastic from the scrap bin from a shop here in town. My problem is that I'm using a Diablo 10' blade from Freud and that thing spits dust from the back side of the blade like I've never seen. I rip a lot of wood that is 7" and better and have to turn the board over for the second cut which means sawdust is not only spitting out the back but out the front along the previously cut slot. So it looks like my hood will end up being about 14" long to try and catch it all. I'm going to try and mount the intake further toward the back of the hood hoping to catch more of the dust off the back of the blade. Now I'm wondering if I need to put some baffles in the hood to try and direct the flow. The hood will be 14" long by 2 1/2 wide by 3" high. If I had a 4" collection system I'm sure it would work better and not need anything but 14" is awfully long for a hood. Unfortunately that's about what I'm going to need.... I think!
Does anyone have any suggestions or ideas, or have you built your own hoods

 

[Marv]

This is the original one I made and I just finished making a new hood to address the issues from the first one.
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f2/shop-built-table-saw-overarm-dust-collection-hood-45394/




Here are a few pics of the new hood that works better with the strip brush front/back however I am actually working on a third version to hopefully improve it even more.

 

[mobilepaul]

I'm making an over the table dust hood for my table saw. I've already made the run from the side of the saw to the blade, just pvc pipe and fittings and now need to make the hood. I'm using some 3/8 acrylic plastic from the scrap bin from a shop here in town. My problem is that I'm using a Diablo 10' blade from Freud and that thing spits dust from the back side of the blade like I've never seen. I rip a lot of wood that is 7" and better and have to turn the board over for the second cut which means sawdust is not only spitting out the back but out the front along the previously cut slot. So it looks like my hood will end up being about 14" long to try and catch it all. I'm going to try and mount the intake further toward the back of the hood hoping to catch more of the dust off the back of the blade. Now I'm wondering if I need to put some baffles in the hood to try and direct the flow. The hood will be 14" long by 2 1/2 wide by 3" high. If I had a 4" collection system I'm sure it would work better and not need anything but 14" is awfully long for a hood. Unfortunately that's about what I'm going to need.... I think!
Does anyone have any suggestions or ideas, or have you built your own hoods

Gary go look at these hoods, they are among the best out there for over the counter. You didn't say what saw, so a general answer is all I can muster...

this is the one I own and it's great!
http://www.thesharkguard.com/

and there are several that are good as well and a few that are good but I cannot remember their names at the moment, as I think of them, I will add them to your list.

http://toolmonger.com/2010/02/24/table-saw-blade-guard-and-dust-collector/

Exaktor EXOA-2 Table Saw Overarm Blade Cover and Dust Collector - Amazon.com

HTC 10A-M50P Brett-Guard Table Saw Guard - Amazon.com

then some others

http://www.woodcentral.com/bparticles/blade_guard.pdf

 

[mobilepaul]

This is the original one I made and I just finished making a new hood to address the issues from the first one.
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f2/shop-built-table-saw-overarm-dust-collection-hood-45394/

Nice Hoods, Marv...

 

[Marv]

Nice Hoods, Marv...

Thanks!

 

[Tom King]

I use the Exactor, and it works great. I can take measurements for you, if you still need measurements.

The exactor has wheels on the front and back. The back one probably doesn't matter much, but the one on the front is great because it will ride over a board as it's pushed in, even if the hood is below the board level to start with. I wouldn't want to be without that front wheel after using one. It's also closed in on the back.

The Exactor also has a counter weight so the hood can pivot easily up and down with little resistance.

 

[Gary Thomas]

Over the saw

Thanks for all the great pics guys. Marv, I really like your hood. I have no way to make the metal parts unfortunately. I figured out a design and I'm going to make it out of hard wood. It will have the same basic configuration and be able to travel up an down. I like the Extractor model, saw it online when looking for designs. Instead of one wheel though I'm going to mount 3 small wheels in front (my hood is 3" wide) this way when I'm ripping something thin it will still travel up over the piece. I was thinking that the extractor would have trouble with this I were making say 5/16" rips. I'll post some pics when I get this all finished. Sawdust forever!

 

[Tom King]

Wheels on the edges would definitely be an improvement. Just as you said, narrow pieces don't function the wheel, and require lifting by hand. The wheels should be large enough to roll up and over 3/4 material though.

 

[toolguy1000]

and for those who want to use OEM parts for table top DC, here's my ghetto version, attached to an auto activated shop vac. works quite well.

 

[Marv]

Thanks for all the great pics guys. Marv, I really like your hood. I have no way to make the metal parts unfortunately. I figured out a design and I'm going to make it out of hard wood. It will have the same basic configuration and be able to travel up an down. I like the Extractor model, saw it online when looking for designs. Instead of one wheel though I'm going to mount 3 small wheels in front (my hood is 3" wide) this way when I'm ripping something thin it will still travel up over the piece. I was thinking that the extractor would have trouble with this I were making say 5/16" rips. I'll post some pics when I get this all finished. Sawdust forever!

Thanks Gary! The metal pieces are actually part of the Biesemeyer guard I started with and I only made the hood since I didn't like the original one. I hadn't thought of using wheels however one of the improvements I made was to cut an angle on the bottom front of the Lexan to allow the hood to lift when contacted (I'll post pics of the third version as soon as I get a chance to finish it)

 

[Marv]

and for those who want to use OEM parts for table top DC, here's my ghetto version, attached to an auto activated shop vac. works quite well.

I guess "ghetto" now mean "ingenious innovation for easily solving a problem". :smile: