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I building a cedar gate and don't know which glue I should use , thinking about Gorilla Glue or Titebond III any suggestions
 

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I'd recommend Gorilla glue and stainless screws.

Make sure you have tight joints, and pre-wet the glued surfaces several times and the wait until the wood is surface dry before applying the glue.

The polyurethane needs the water to cure, and will flow into the wood to get it. The secret is to have well fitted joints that are tight, or you end up with foam in the gap. Which isn't very strong. The polyurethane has about twice the tensile strength of linen which is the natural glue holding the fibers together in wood.

So, if the joint is good the glued area is twice as strong as the wood.
 

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I building a cedar gate and don't know which glue I should use , thinking about Gorilla Glue or Titebond III any suggestions
if you use gorilla glue get the white kind not the syurpy kind this syurpy kind foams out and the white doesn't, any way the titebound 3 is for outside use
 

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Most lumber will move quite a bit outdoors. Screws don't restrict movement like glue or adhesives do. Restricted movement often leads to splitting. You are better off not to glue something like a frame added around individual T&G boards, for example. If the gate is made more like a door, structural frame with M&T and loose panels, you can use glue in the M&T joint but you need to leave room around the panel to move. I've built many shed, garage, barn doors and gates. On one set of doors, I used 1x6 T&G boards with a 1x4 perimeter frame that was screwed and glued to the surface of those boards using Gorilla glue. Several of the 1x6 split because of the glue. A lesson learned the hard way. I have a similar door on one of my garden sheds. The bottom member of the frame is rotted. Having no glue, it's easy to remove the screws and fit a replacement part, which I couldn't do very easily if glued. Nothing outside lasts forever. Plan for future repair.
 

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I personally would not use glue, just SS or coated wood screws, the wood will move with the seasons outdoors. Cross braces are essential to keep it from sagging over time.
And make sure you put the braces in correctly! If you're doing a diagonal brace, the bottom end should be nearest the hinges. That way it can support the mass of the gate.

I've just moved into a house where all the diagonal braces are done the other way. The sellers said they couldn't figure out why all these brand new professionally installed fence gates were sagging...
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks for the info. The door has M & T with loose panels. I plan on installing pegs in the M & T for extra support.
 
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