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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Early 1980s craftsman jointer (model 113.206801). Not the best around but the one I have so there's that. The motor is starting fine then powering down suddenly and there is a bit of a burnt smell though it doesn't feel super hot. I don't know enough about motors (or anything electrical for that matter) to fix it but came across this motor as a possible replacement:


Its 3/4 instead of 1/2 hp but they did have jointers that had a 3/4 horse motor on them. RPM is the same, mount appears the same, weight is similar, shaft is same diameter. Am I missing anything as far as using this as a replacement? The manual specifically states "not to use any motor with an automatic reset overload protector as their use may be hazardous". I have no idea what that means or what hazard would be created.
 

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I had that same 6" jointer and used it for many years. mine came with a Craftsman 1 HP motor and that was great. I decided to give it to a friend because I also had new model and didn't need both. I kept the old Craftsman motor and replaced it with a 1 HP motor from Harbor Freight. The ideal RPM would be 1725 rather than 3540, but doesn't matter that much, you just need about 5,000 RPMs on the cutter head like this one:

Grizzly is a good source for electric motors at a reasonable price:

The mounting holes will match for a type 56 frame.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I had that same 6" jointer and used it for many years. mine came with a Craftsman 1 HP motor and that was great. I decided to give it to a friend because I also had new model and didn't need both. I kept the old Craftsman motor and replaced it with a 1 HP motor from Harbor Freight. The ideal RPM would be 1725 rather than 3540, but doesn't matter that much, you just need about 5,000 RPMs on the cutter head like this one:

Grizzly is a good source for electric motors at a reasonable price:

The mounting holes will match for a type 56 frame.
Thanks for the reply, that grizzly motor looks like its what I'm looking for. I'm interested in the difference in RPM? it seems like a big difference at the crankshaft to produce a similar amount at the cutter head
 

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Thanks for the reply, that grizzly motor looks like its what I'm looking for. I'm interested in the difference in RPM? it seems like a big difference at the crankshaft to produce a similar amount at the cutter head
Because of the RPM difference,1725 VS 3450, the pulley size ratio is 2:1.
A 1725 motor with a 4" pulley will spin a cutter head at the same RPMs as a 3450 RPM motor with a 2" pulley.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Because of the RPM difference,1725 VS 3450, the pulley size ratio is 2:1.
A 1725 motor with a 4" pulley will spin a cutter head at the same RPMs as a 3450 RPM motor with a 2" pulley.
Got it, So I would need to swap the old pulley (needs it anyway) with a 4" and put a new belt on most likely as well.
 

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Check the enclosed motors at Grizzly site

 

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BTW - TEFC = totally enclosed fan cooled, and generally what you want for woodworking machines so they don't clog up with dust ir kick up a lot of dust or start fires in the dust pile. Back in the day I just pulled whatever motor I could get out of an abandoned washing machine or other piece of junk I could scrounge but not usually the way to get the best performance.
I am curious about the old motor, though. You say it starts okay but then slows. This would indicate a bad run capacitor if it has one and that may be the source of the burnt smell (or the motor windings if not turning fast enough to cool the motor).
In WW machines you encounter 2 types of induction motors. Some motors have 2 capacitors, one for start and one for run, some motors have 1 capacitor with 3 terminals -- these are actually 2 capacitors in one package. The lower valued capacitor is the run capacitor. Some motors have one capacitor, a start capacitor only and don't need a run capacitor. Run capacitors will generally be a few microfarads, usually abbreviated mfd, and start capacitors are usually around 40 to 80 mfd. If your motor has a run capacitor you might pull it and take it to a motor or HVAC shop. They can test it and might save you a few $$ if that's the problem.
 

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As mentioned above, Grizzly is a great source for replacement motors, TEFC is what you want for woodworking machines, and match the RPMs if you can, if not, change the pulley diameters to adjust RPM at the cutterhead properly, motor too fast? Make the pulley smaller, motor too slow, make the pulley larger.

Talk to the folks at Grizzly about the warning on your jointer, but I suspect the motor you want is something like the following...

 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I ended up going with a grizzly completely enclosed motor, found one that matched my rpm so no pulley adjustments even though i'm replacing them as well. I think the warning has to do with continuous run motors vs. the kind for air compressors and stuff like that. Unfortunately I'm far enough from someone that works on electric motors it probably costs more to drive somewhere to get it tested and get a new part than it does to replace it. I'll let y'all know how it turns out.
 

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here was what found for that model CM jointer 113.206801 link at vintage 113.206801
mine is the same CM jointer 113.206931 it came with legs and motor 3/4 hp 3400 rpm

Product Font Material property Circle Close-up

at the sears site motor 113.1226 shows how it put together. some time the Actuator Assembly, Centrifugal (in part list #8) will get dirty and will not travel back and forth on the shaft.

cutter head is 2" x 1/2 shaft pully motor uses a 2.5" x 1/2 " inch pulley motor at 3400 rpm 1 to 1.3 ratio cutter at 4250 rpm
Font Rectangle Parallel Screenshot Electric blue

hope this is of some help to others
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
got it hooked up and working. Installed a grizzly fully enclosed motor (same rpm) which cost about as much as the jointer is probably worth but oh well lol. New blades and tuned up, runs very smooth now and no bog down with the 1hp motor. Thanks everyone for the advice!
Wheel Tire Automotive tire Bicycle tire Tread
 

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if fond this last January 2021. the dust bag for this planer.
Blue Rectangle Font Material property Technology

in original box with all the parts. date on box from 1979
motor rebuilt and new bearings, also repainted.
Plant Bumper Asphalt Road surface Automotive exterior


made chip diverters. to send the wood dust down.

Blue Rectangle Font Gas Fixture


made in card board then out 3/16 Masonite. 80% goes in the bag.


Hood Trunk Vehicle Motor vehicle Bumper

my dad bought this planer in 1979. when i got it, it had been stored in a wet garage.
motor would not turn. it was in rough shape. :(
 
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