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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm a woodworking newbie, at least when you measure by the number of projects I've completed.

Last month I purchased an old Sears Craftsman Table Saw with a cast iron top on craigslist. After several hours of using steel wool and wet/dry sandpaper on the surface to clean up the rust, breaking and then replacing the tilt wheel, and purchasing a new blade.

Now, I can't seem to tilt the blade - and I'm worried I'm going to break the wheel or saw if I force it - anyone have an idea what could be the problem? I'm hoping it's user error...
 

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Do you have the tilt lock released? Its the top lever on the front of the saw.

Im interested in seeing before and after pics too. Im getting ready to clean one of these up myself.
 

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How about a picture of the saw? I have an old ~1969 iron top Craftsman saw. There is a crank on the side and a crank on the front. No tilt lock. :blink:
 

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Yeah pics and a model number would be helpful. The 113 saws have a crank on the side for tilt, a crank on the front for elevation and a tilt lock lever on the front, up top just below the table.
 

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where's my table saw?
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the gears are gummed up with sawdust

There's a bevel gear and sector that when you crank the wheel can't turn because there is a build up of crud in the teeth...happens all the time on those saws., mine included. Turn the saw upside dwon on the bench and you'll see what I mean. A fine bladed screw driver or awl will loosen the crud and push it out. Then spray the gears with a dryslide lubricant to prevent the sawdust from cling to the gears. PB Blaster makes a dry slide lube, there are others.
 

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Good advice here so far. If it's a 113 saw a lot of people that buy them don't realize that locking lever is there and plus 1 on the thorough cleaning and dry lube. That should be done on a regular basis.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks for the replies. As you can see in photo one, there's no model or serial number (perhaps it wore off?). That being said, I'm pretty sure it's something like a 113.298722 or 113.298762 - I downloaded a manual online and the drawings look right to me.

I've loosened the tilt lock (at least I think that's what it is), and it's quite loose, but no luck. I neglected to mention before that right after I got it I was able to tilt it, but I'm not able to now, and I don't know why. Another strange thing is if I lift the blade up too high, and turn the saw on, the blade doesn't actually spin.

The inner workings seem to be rusted pretty badly - maybe that has something to do with it. Any advice on how to clean that?

Where would I find some of that dry lube?
 

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Good advice here so far. If it's a 113 saw a lot of people that buy them don't realize that locking lever is there and plus 1 on the thorough cleaning and dry lube. That should be done on a regular basis.
My C-man saw is a 113.29943. I just looked at the manual and there is no mention of the tilt locking lever. Where is it located??

Thanks

George
 

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My saw looks way older :wheelchair: than that. Mine definitely does not have any tilt lock. Just two wheels. Guess I should look up the model number, for my own edification if nothing else.

What kind of dry lube do you guys recommend for the screw shafts and the tilt ways?
 

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Thanks for the replies. As you can see in photo one, there's no model or serial number (perhaps it wore off?). That being said, I'm pretty sure it's something like a 113.298722 or 113.298762 - I downloaded a manual online and the drawings look right to me.

I've loosened the tilt lock (at least I think that's what it is), and it's quite loose, but no luck. I neglected to mention before that right after I got it I was able to tilt it, but I'm not able to now, and I don't know why. Another strange thing is if I lift the blade up too high, and turn the saw on, the blade doesn't actually spin.

The inner workings seem to be rusted pretty badly - maybe that has something to do with it. Any advice on how to clean that?

Where would I find some of that dry lube?
Something's wrong. Take the saw apart and inspect / clean / lube it. Remove the blade and fence rails then take the table off the stand and turn it upside down on a workbench. Familiarize yourself with how the mechanisms work. You will want to loosen the trunion cradle and set the blade parallel to the mitre slots. Go through the entire factory setup procedure.

Dry lube in a spray can can be found at any hardware store.

FWIW, I don't ever tilt the blade on my Craftsman saw, as the mechanism is sloppy and changes when I tighten the lock. It's a real PITA to get it back to 90*.
 

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Also, does anyone know a good way to get at those internals?
remove the fence rails and extension wings. flip the saw onto the table top and you'll see how incredibly simple the elevation and bevel mechanisms are. your issue, i'll wager, is probably something simple. i have two similar saw (both with the same bevel lock yours has) and they work wonderfully, once they are set up properly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
FWIW, I don't ever tilt the blade on my Craftsman saw, as the mechanism is sloppy and changes when I tighten the lock. It's a real PITA to get it back to 90*.
Thanks - I may have to leave the tilt alone as well, but I don't have a miter saw and so being able to make angled cuts would be rather useful.

I guess I'm just intimidated by the thing. I'll see what I can do in the next few evenings to disassemble and diagnose it.

I've used WD-40 to dissolve rust on the top surface and then used steel wool and wet/dry sandpaper. Does anyone have any suggestions about cleaning up the rust on the rest of the assembly? I've heard some people say to never use petroleum products on their tools - why is that?
 

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Don't lean it over ! ! !

EricW, I've got a TS exactly like that. Please Heed this word of caution Don't lean that saw over on two of the legs. I did that to mine and bent the two legs that were on the floor.:furious: I had to set it back up straight block up that bent side and take the legs off to straighten them. It was a good thing I knew someone with a hydraulic press.:yes: Beating it with a hammer just won't do it.
Do like someone has already mentioned and take the heavy cast iron table off and turn it upside down on a work bench.:surrender: OH, and get some help to do this.:thumbsup:
That's my 2 cents worth, spend it wisely!:laughing:
 

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There are lots of anti-rust solutions. T-9 Boeshield gets good reviews in the woodworking tool world. Petrolium oils are OK as long as they never touch your wood.


BTW the main assembly underneath is an aluminum casting.
 

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Thanks for the replies. As you can see in photo one, there's no model or serial number (perhaps it wore off?). That being said, I'm pretty sure it's something like a 113.298722 or 113.298762 - I downloaded a manual online and the drawings look right to me.

I've loosened the tilt lock (at least I think that's what it is), and it's quite loose, but no luck. I neglected to mention before that right after I got it I was able to tilt it, but I'm not able to now, and I don't know why. Another strange thing is if I lift the blade up too high, and turn the saw on, the blade doesn't actually spin.

The inner workings seem to be rusted pretty badly - maybe that has something to do with it. Any advice on how to clean that?

Where would I find some of that dry lube?
 

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From the picture I think it is 113.298762...same as the model I bought in Craigslist 6 mos ago and was able to clean it up and tuned up good enough for my hobby... my table saw now has the same problem... unable to tilt the blade more than 10 degrees... I viewed it from opening in the blade elevator crank and it seems free of crud and sawdust so I sprayed the tilt screw with dry lube but did not improve anything... the tilt lock is unlocked and my suspect is the tilt screw rod is bent as my cousin used it one time and he must have tried to tilt the blade without unlocking the tilt blade mechanism...I have read it in one of the forums that trying to tilt the blade without unlocking will deform or bend that tilt screw rod but I doubt that logic as that rod is about 1 in steel... the crankwheel or the screw will give first before bending that 1 in rod.... like you Im a newbie too...retired from healthcare career reliving my carpentry experience in Elem grades 60 years ago but now using these power tools...
 
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