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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hi everyone I'm refinishing an old Chifferode and I'm at a point I need some input. First I striped and sanded it down to bare wood then I put some minwax pre stain on it then I put my stain this is where I need some help. I don't want any shine some what can I put

Thanks
 

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If you didn't jump ship if the color is to your liking I would finish it with a water based polyurethane or if you have the means of spraying use a cab-acrylic lacquer if the wood is light in color. If it is medium to dark in color I would use a oil based polyurethane. The oil based poly is a better finish but it will yellow in time and that doesn't look good on light colored wood. It would help if I knew what kind of wood it was.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I wish I knew some of the wood is hard some is soft I've been told some is maple maybe poplar. I've also been told I need to seal the wood before I put on the final finish all of this is new to me that's way I'm on here asking questions.
Thanks for the reply.
 

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I wish I knew some of the wood is hard some is soft I've been told some is maple maybe poplar. I've also been told I need to seal the wood before I put on the final finish all of this is new to me that's way I'm on here asking questions.
Thanks for the reply.
If you have maple or perhaps poplar and you stain it, you should probably use a wood conditioner. The soft parts of the wood absorb too much of the stain making blotchy spots. The conditioner will make the stain go on more uniform.

When you finish it normally takes several coats and you sand the finish between coats with 220 or finer sandpaper. The topcoat finish is made to be very hard so it's difficult to sand. Sealers on the other hand are made to be easy to sand and have a lot more solids in them so the finish builds faster. You don't have to use sealers but for this reason it makes the job less work. Think of sealers as clear primer. I also recommend a sealer as a barrier coat if you are putting a water based finish over an oil stain.
 

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Who wants to wait three days or more for the stain to dry.
If you are concerned about the integrity of the stain coating the stain quickly, what difference would it make what you use on top of it? So...how long do you wait to put a sealer on top of the stain?

YOU can wait as long as you want. Same day works just fine with WB polyurethane.




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If you are concerned about the integrity of the stain coating the stain quickly, what difference would it make what you use on top of it? So...how long do you wait to put a sealer on top of the stain?

YOU can wait as long as you want. Same day works just fine with WB polyurethane.








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The problem is there is a compatability problem between linseed oil and water based polyurethane. If you coat it too soon then there is a risk of adhesion problems which I've seen and had to deal with. There is not the compatability problem with linseed oil and sealer. It will bond even if the linseed oil isn't fully cured and the water based polyurethane will bond fine to the sealer. I don't know of any good reason not to use the sealer but plenty of good reasons for it.
 

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Hi everyone I'm refinishing an old Chifferode and I'm at a point I need some input. First I striped and sanded it down to bare wood then I put some minwax pre stain on it then I put my stain this is where I need some help. I don't want any shine some what can I put on it .


Getting started


Stained


Thanks
What happened to the photos ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Sorry about the pics I didn't read about not using photo-bucket I've made an album so maybe you can see the pics. I went with the oil base minwax ploy and put on one coat let it dry then sanded now I'm putting another coat on here's my question when this coat is dry do I do anything else or am I done.

Thanks for the replies
Sid
 

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Sometimes it takes a third coat but most of the time a second coat and you are done. You will be able to tell after the second coat is dry. If there is dead dry looking spots then it doesn't have enough of an emulsion.
 

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So, you used an oil base stain, and an oil base polyurethane. For that bare look you mention, it is not an "emulsion" problem, but a lack of build. Coats of oil base polyurethane do not mix (or create an emulsion) when applying over a previous coat. An emulsion is basically a mixing of unmixable medias. What you have is a lack of build (not enough coats).




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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
All done
Finally finished the Chifferode and I think it turned out better than expected. I also made some drawer slides for the first time and they work very good.
Thanks for all the replies.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Pics of the drawer sides

This may not be the place to ask but can I post more that one pic at a time on a post every time I try it only shows the last pic.

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Pics of the drawer sides

This may not be the place to ask but can I post more that one pic at a time on a post every time I try it only shows the last pic.

Thanks
You can post more pictures at one time however I'm on dial-up internet and won't be able to open them. The thread will lock up and often can't even get the text.

The next time you make drawer slides I would suggest you make a single runner in the cabinet instead of two. It would be easier not to have to have two pieces spaced exactly apart. Then on the underside of the drawer put a board with a dado in the center of the drawer to slide over the cabinet member. Some furniture manufactures even use a dovetail to make the runners. If you ever do that use a very dense wood like maple. I've had to replace a bunch of them that were made out of luan and it didn't hold up.
 

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Dual guides work very well as they offer more of a support to the bottom of the drawer than a single member. I've repaired more single runners due to breakage and cracking than the two piece method.










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The type of drawer runners that Slong58 has doesn't support the drawer. the drawer is supported with a piece of wood above and below the side of the drawer. The runner just makes the drawer slide straight in and out instead of binding against the side.
 
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