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Discussion Starter #21
My table top on that router is 33" deep. I have threatened to cut that down several times but still havent. Guess I'm afraid once I do, there's no going back..
 

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So the table is a total of 33" deep and your Router sets 12" back from the front edge leaving some 21" on the back side. (from the spindle CL.) That may be nice , for me anyways. I tend to put things on anything horizontal and it would be nice to have that available room for the necessaries. My table is 26 x 48. Router cl from front is 18" so that only give me 8" to make a turn with my dust collector elbow. I'm taking table top off now. I'm going to match your 12" from the front to router CL. I set the router in that location and it is a lot more comfortable. Thanks.
 

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Are they worth anything running. Guy down the street is selling it and a Delta portable saw.

I had one in the early 80's but got rid of it.

Any worth?
Jointers have a very specific job and do not necessarily make boards perfectly flat. They will only make the board, or edge, perfectly flat within the length of the bed. If you are only jointing very small boards then a portable jointer could be a good asset. If you plan on jointing anything around 4' or longer I would suggest waiting and getting a long bed jointer.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Jointers have a very specific job and do not necessarily make boards perfectly flat. They will only make the board, or edge, perfectly flat within the length of the bed. If you are only jointing very small boards then a portable jointer could be a good asset. If you plan on jointing anything around 4' or longer I would suggest waiting and getting a long bed jointer.
I only have an interest in a 4" jointer...
 

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Jointers have a very specific job and do not necessarily make boards perfectly flat. They will only make the board, or edge, perfectly flat within the length of the bed. If you are only jointing very small boards then a portable jointer could be a good asset. If you plan on jointing anything around 4' or longer I would suggest waiting and getting a long bed jointer.
B Coil. Sorry. I cannot completely agree. A short jointer will make a long board edge flat for it's entire length as long as you can hold the board flat to the jointer tables. That gets more difficult the longer the board gets relative to the length of the jointer.
 

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I understand it's size. I understand it's operation and it's limits. I was curious if it has a value.

I've been using this for chairs. I can't see a 4" jointer being worse...

But unless the price is right I'm not going to mess with it..
View attachment 422486
Rebel,
Question for you, if you don't mind. How does your dust collection tube interface with the router table fence above. Is your blast gate tube directly connected to the fence supports. My router table has a cast iron fence support and interface of the dust collection blast gate is thru an obround opening in the cast iron fence support. I may need to increase size of opening while I have the router table top off to improve efficiency of the dust collection. . Appreciate any information you may be able to share.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
I'll have to get you a good picture of the single router table DC on the back.

On this one I want the full force of the DC on the back of the fence. You can close up the front but it has the full volume from behind.
large.1402418132_rebelworkwoodworkingHDRT(84).JPG.39489a94e119d1043c759f9ed6160c85.jpeg
large.1915334323_rebelworkwoodworkingHDRT(80).JPG.c31f7a909c8e0b3dc5014239311890b9.jpeg
 

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SO it looks likes you have 3" PVC that interfaces with the router cutter surface area and then on the back side probably a blast gate then onto the DC gate. Very little restriction. I will take a picture of the gate on mine, it is smaller and gets clogged if I'm taking a lot of material in one pass.
 

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Rebel, so the way I see your design is you have a turned wooden cylinder that interfaces between the rectangular opening in the fence (for the cutter) and the tube that leads to the blast gate.
Below is picture of the back side of the fence casting I use on the router table. It's off the machine and setting on a MDF table top. Once the fence is set in place the thumb knobs on both sides provide minute adjustment of the fence in and out providing accurate adjustments but also creates a gap between the casting and the fence. The tunnel you see in the center of the casting is meant to be the avenue for the dust collector to draw chips and dust away from the router bit. If the fence gets very far away for the casting then I dont have a good draw pulling the dust away by the dust collector. I going to make a transition box like yours on the back side, not sure what I will or can do for the space ahead of the casting or between the casting and the fence.
422578
 

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B Coil. Sorry. I cannot completely agree. A short jointer will make a long board edge flat for it's entire length as long as you can hold the board flat to the jointer tables. That gets more difficult the longer the board gets relative to the length of the jointer.
You can disagree, but mathematically not so. Picture the bed of a jointer as the chord across an arc. If that were the case you could use a block plane in a clamp for a jointer. But you can make extension tables for a 4" tabletop jointer.
 

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You can disagree, but mathematically not so. Picture the bed of a jointer as the chord across an arc. If that were the case you could use a block plane in a clamp for a jointer. But you can make extension tables for a 4" tabletop jointer.
I don't wish to argue the point in a forum. I'll just repeat what I said above, I have successfully edge jointed boards at least 4' long on a 4" jointer without extensions.
 
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