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Hello, folks. Sorry for the long-winded first post, but it's a long and painful story. There are a lot of "could've / should've" comments to be made here, but this is the situation I'm in...

Purchased enough 16/4 kiln dried (supposedly) clear and kiln-dried oak for the purpose of making a replacement window frame for our ca.1773 house. Material was purchased rough, milled and finished to size, and then mortise & tennoned to make the frame. During the milling process, I noticed a good bit of woodworm damage (powder post beetle?), and I arranged the milling of the various components such that it would be hidden back inside the wall when complete.

However, I was not able to hide all of the damage, and so exposed areas do have many smaller worm holes. All holes (in both the extensive and lightly damaged areas) are currently filled with what I assume to be the feces of whatever bug was formerly present.

I also assumed there was no active infestation, but while trying to research what to fill these tunnels with, I found several bits of information cautioning me that this is not a safe assumption. My wife found a product called Bora Care, with which she is suggesting I paint the timbers, which will obviously delay my install another week! Her reasoning is a few statements we've read, stating that sometimes kiln drying does not kill all, and that infestation often happens at the dealer after kiln-drying.

Questions:

1. Is it normal to see this damage in clear oak? Should I expect any recourse with the lumber dealer? I know of only one dealer in my area who sells kiln-dried oak in 16/4, so I'm sort of relying on these guys.

2. Should I delay the project long enough to treat the lumber?

3. What to do about the powder-filled holes? Must I gouge them clean and fill, simply prime over them, what?

Thank you!

Overall frame construction:


Frame construction detail:


Light damage on exposed part of sill:


Heavy damage to be hidden inside wall (rear side of stile):
 

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If the wood is truely kiln dried AND ya use the borax solution, ther should not be any future probs.
I use Timber Mate wood filler when needed. It should work well for your needs.
I have used my compressor and air nozzle to blow out the residue from pp beetles.
Bill
 

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Looks like a fun project.

If you have any doubts that the wood was kiln dried, I would check moisture content with a meter. You don't want to run into another surprise later on after the windows are installed. As far as compensation from the dealer, if you couldn't see the damage when you selected the boards the he probably didn't see it when he milled them.

If you are going to paint the windows any number of readily available fillers should work. I've used Elmer's interior/exterior filler under paint and Wood Wise (or was it Wize) for stained wood. Professional floor refinisher suppliers usually have good fillers formulated to match a particular type of wood and to take stain consistent with the species you are filling.

Don
 

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What you do is up to you,if it was mine I would take it back to the guy and get him to change it.As it is unfit for purpose.

The way to look at this is you where doing this on a clients house would you really try to fit it? No way ,so why should you mess around with chemicals, not know if its completely treated and lie awake at night not knowing if your house is being eaten away.

If you could not see it till the wood was machined then the guy you bought it from could not see it either, simple really.
 
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