Non Toxic finish
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Burlkraft
Dunno if you saw this question so I am just nudgin ya . . . . I bet you know some finsihes for Lilty's project eh?
Dunno if you saw this question so I am just nudgin ya . . . . I bet you know some finsihes for Lilty's project eh?
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147 Posts
Supposedly most poly finishes are food grade after 30 days and a wash.
Hey Lilty,
I happen to be an oil guy myself. Mineral oil is non toxic, non flammable and you can't taste it at all. Jill and I are making all of our daily dishes...bowls, plates etc..... out of maple and mineral oil is all we're using. The best part is the oil makes a finish that is deep and soft, but makes the grain really pop......:thumbsup: :thumbsup:
If ya check out Mike Mahoney's web site he uses walnut oil which is great stuff, but mineral oil is so much cheaper and as easy as goin' to Walgreen's to get....
I happen to be an oil guy myself. Mineral oil is non toxic, non flammable and you can't taste it at all. Jill and I are making all of our daily dishes...bowls, plates etc..... out of maple and mineral oil is all we're using. The best part is the oil makes a finish that is deep and soft, but makes the grain really pop......:thumbsup: :thumbsup:
If ya check out Mike Mahoney's web site he uses walnut oil which is great stuff, but mineral oil is so much cheaper and as easy as goin' to Walgreen's to get....
salad bowl varnish
A varnish from general finishes called "salad bowl finish" Woodcraft.com) is non-toxic food safe once cured for 72 hours. It would give you a great finish for the inside. three coats and you should have a glass smooth finish you can wipe out when cleaning
John:thumbsup:
A varnish from general finishes called "salad bowl finish" Woodcraft.com) is non-toxic food safe once cured for 72 hours. It would give you a great finish for the inside. three coats and you should have a glass smooth finish you can wipe out when cleaning
John:thumbsup:
Plain-old shellac is also food grade material. If you ever see the word "confectioner's glaze" on candy, or anything like that, or you see a slick coating on the outside, like Junior Mints, there's a good chance that it's shellac.
The question is whether or not there is any issue with heat - if there is, I would go with poly - if not, shellac. Mineral oil would be OK, too, as long as you're aware that you're going to have to oil the canisters from time to time.
The question is whether or not there is any issue with heat - if there is, I would go with poly - if not, shellac. Mineral oil would be OK, too, as long as you're aware that you're going to have to oil the canisters from time to time.
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