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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I would like to purchase a dado blade(s) for my table saw but am having trouble understanding what to choose and the folks that work at the local home stores are no help.

I am running an older craftsman 10" TS with the standard 5/8" arbor. The arbor appears long enough to handle a 3/4" thick blade although I may need to make a special insert to fit the widest of these.
At the local home stores all I can find are 7", 7 1/4", and 8" dia dado blades. I can't seem to find a 10" dado blade.

Also, I am seeing several different styles:
1) One has a single blade and an adjustment that tilts the blade from flat to enough angle to cut 3/4" wide dado

2) Another seems to come apart and have various blades and shims

3) Yet others appear to be made to cut a specific size dado and a separate one must be purchased to cut each size

Where can I find 10" blades for my 10" TS? How do I choose what style to get after I find the correct diameter? What style do most of you guys use?

Thanks for any help
 

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You definitely don't have the horsepower to utilize a ten inch dado blade. Nor do most saws. That is why you aren't finding any ten inch dado sets.

Think about it this way: the amount of power required is directly related to how much wood you are removing. The deeper and wider the cut is, the more power it requires to make the cut.

Realistically a six-inch cut will do 90%, or more of anything you will ever need to do. My Dad had a six inch that saw him through forty- plus years of woodworking and general carpentry.

I bought an 8-inch only because when HomeDesperate and Lowers moved into town three west coast and local chains ended up going out of business. I bought mine when things were 80% off, and the manager who I had doing business with "found" it just as I happened to walk through the door. He also let me buy shopping carts of the remnants the day after they officially closed when I dropped by to say goodby, for ten bucks a cart.
 

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Like you're hearing - don't buy the 10 inch (never seen one). If you own a router - consider doing your dado with the router. A 3/4" bit is 3/4 inch thick and routers will leave you with flat bottoms
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I guess I was assuming that because it is a 10" TS that I HAD to use only 10" blades on it. I understand now. I'll pick up an 8" stack. If the saw loses too much power I can rewire the motor back to 220volt like it was to begin with. I only scaled it back down to 110 so I didn't tie up the dryer outlet.

I have used my router to make 1/4" deep, 3/4" wide dados in the past and it worked quite well.
miter005.jpg

The reason I want to run dados on my table saw is because I built a finger/box joint jig similar to the one Laney Shaughnessy shared in his videos. I think it will work quite well and be able to make various size joints.
 

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Is this a reasonable set? Right now I can't afford much more.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Diablo-8...w-Blade-Set-DD208H/100086071#customer_reviews

Maybe for finger joints a less expensive set would be good enough???

http://www.menards.com/main/tools-h...sories/8-dado-blade-set/p-1487799-c-10082.htm
The Freud set is a solid value, but I think the Avenger @ $57 is a comparable performer making it a better bang for the buck IMO. At ~ $120, the DW/Dewlta 7670 is a slightly better performer. Dunno about the Menard's set...I'd stick with a known entity.


As mentioned, I'd stay away from the wobble sets, and look to a decent 6" or 8" stacked dado set. This Avenger set is the same as the Oshlun AFAIK (they're associated brands), but is on sale for $57 shipped....great value set.

For more money, the DeWalt/Delta 7670 is a nice step up for ~ $120, and comes with a very nice case.

The best set I've used is the Infinity Dadonator @ ~ $200.
 

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I guess I was assuming that because it is a 10" TS that I HAD to use only 10" blades on it. I understand now. I'll pick up an 8" stack. If the saw loses too much power I can rewire the motor back to 220volt like it was to begin with. I only scaled it back down to 110 so I didn't tie up the dryer outlet.

I have used my router to make 1/4" deep, 3/4" wide dados in the past and it worked quite well.
View attachment 80684

The reason I want to run dados on my table saw is because I built a finger/box joint jig similar to the one Laney Shaughnessy shared in his videos. I think it will work quite well and be able to make various size joints.
you don't have to use only 10" blade on your saw you can use 7 1/4" also some people do this , you will get a nice cut and power also, also i don't belive the 220 will give you any more hp , just run's on less amp's , it is 1/2 anps from 220 we will say on 110 tha amp draw on run is 8 amp's on 220 it is 4 amps, the figures are not right but you get the idea . now not all dodo's will give you a flat bottom , check the web here for some that will , ask kembo he will know
 

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Just a comment on using different diameter tooling.It does change your surface speed at the cutting tip.This is a good thing.It allows you to change the cutting characteristics for the wood/job at hand.

By slowing down the tooth speed on a dado head,you're allowing for better chip evac.May be splitting hairs to some......but get into a large(wide/deep)dado in some of the tougher woods and you'll appreciate all the help you can get.

There are some,not so basic differences between using a router/shaper vs....say a table saw/dado.Just spend some time trying to understand the way each presents it's cutting edge to the work.Its not always a matter of which process is "better".....there are other things,portability,ability to "stop" a cut,etc,etc.
 

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I use an 8" Tenryu dado set in an I Box jig. Tenryu makes a great blade. Excellent steel and lots of good carbide available on the teeth. (more sharpenings possible)
That being said, I wish I had purchased a 6" and, as great as the Tenryu set is, I had to have the cutters reground as they left bat wings in the dados. Gotta have dead flat dado bottoms for exposed joints!
I'm sure most box joint jigs, whether purchased or shop made, can be used on any router table with a miter slot. That guarantees a flat bottom. Unfortunately, my table has no miter slot.
For finger joints, any full kerf rip blade (flat bottoms again) will do the trick. ShopNotes no. 110 Has plans for an excellent jig.
 

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Most 7-1/4" blades are thinner than 10" 3/32" thin kerf blades. If you're using a splitter (if not, you should be), be careful that a 7-1/4" blade cuts a wide enough kerf to allow the work piece to pass the splitter without binding....that could put you in a tough spot. :huh:
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I picked up an 8" cheaper set for $50. It's a basic 12pc set including the shims. The cuts didn't look too bad and the width using the recipe in the instructions was dead on. If I need to I can purchase a more expensive set in the future.

I was able to finish up on my finger joint jig.

fj1.jpg
I made it mostly out of scrap pcs of oak and some 1/4" ply. The 1/4" plywood plate on the left is removable to put on different plates to make other size fingers.

fj2.jpg
The fence board can adjust slightly left or right to get the cuts right on the money. Tightens up using the wing nuts.

fj3.jpg
I made 3 plate inserts to start with. 1/4", 1/2", 3/4". I had to try it out and after adjusting the front plate slightly the cuts were nice and snug. This is basically a copy of the one built by Laney Shaughnessy in this video:

http://youtu.be/3xDXePtofxE

Again, thanks for all the help everyone gave about dado blades for my first time using them:thumbsup:
 

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You can get 10" and 12" dado sets but unless they are custom ordered almost all will have a 1" bore. And the manufactures recommendation for a 10" saw is an 8" dado set.
 
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