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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys I just got a new table saw for Christmas it's the porter cable job site saw from Lowes and was thinking about doing some milling. I've seen some jigs made to do it. I was gonna start small and see how it goes hut I need advice on the process AFTER the cutting. Like how long to let it dry and what woods to avoid. I've noticed pine is one that a lot of people stay away from. I have a buddy who has over 20 acres of pecan trees that problem wouldn't miss a few limbs from. :) but I also read that pecan warps really bad. And advice comments or reply would be GREATLY appreciated!!!!! Oh p.s. I'm in Oklahoma so humidity is gonna be high. THANKS AGAIN!!!
 

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I know it can be done, but a table saw isn't he best tool to use to mill any sort of wood "in the round" so to speak. I suppose you could build some sort of sled to hold the irregular wood so you could rip a square edge. But a band saw would do it much better, with less risk of bodily harm.
 

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Exactly!

I know it can be done, but a table saw isn't he best tool to use to mill any sort of wood "in the round" so to speak. I suppose you could build some sort of sled to hold the irregular wood so you could rip a square edge. But a band saw would do it much better, with less risk of bodily harm.
Don't even think of sawing a round piece of wood on a table saw down it's length UNLESS it safely secured and can't rotate ... not even a little. :no:

A bandsaw is a much better tool for the task, but even then you will still need to create a flat or make a jig to keep it from rotating OR both.

A bandsaw mill always holds the log securely on the frame while the mobile milling head removes material off the top of the log. This is the safest method. A vertical bandsaw like in most woodshops, can also be used but there are a lot of other issues...supporting the weight of the log, keeping it from rotating...... the correct blade, enough HP to make the cut without bogging down.

A table saw will only have a maximum of about 3", not enough to mill very much on a large log or branch.

Don't do it is my recommendation. :no:
 

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im with woodnthings on this. a bandsaw would be better for this. Highland Woodworking has some good ones and can steer you in the right direction on blades. i love pine i find its very forgiving. honestly i run from hardwoods because of fear of not drying right. pine is hard to mess up. pecan warps and such as far as i know and when its dry its hard as a brick bat. its beautiful wood tho.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Watch "Table Saw - Saw Mill - JIG!" on YouTube
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MUCpRwcwZXs&feature=youtube_gdata_pla

This is what i had in mind. He does some 6in log and I'm just looking to make some smaller stock to make some projects to sell so i can buy more stuff like a router and a band saw. Just trying to get buy as cheap as i can lol. I think his sled jig would be pretty good just take a little bit at a time nice and slow.
 

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That's why I was wondering about the drying process I don't wanna make some stock and build something only to have it split or warp and twist ect. .....you don't get repeat customers that way :)
 

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they say 1 year per inch of thickness. i t would need to be stacked and stickered. im not that sharp on oak and hardwood but in my experience pine is easy to dry. i made a 2 foot by 4 foot box 2 feet deef and added a 250 watt flood light and a small fan and i cover it with plywood and a tarp for some drying. i let the wood air dry some first. we have really hot summers in GA. my issue is the wood gaining some of the moisture back. im thinking on a DH kiln but i have a sawmill. ive heard of people putting it in an attic with a fan. theres also alot of interesting information on woodweb.com.
 
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