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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Before I started making our kitchen cabinets, I decided that my TS setup need improvement. In another thread I had already bought and installed the Delta T2 fence on my flex-cable Craftsman (1980's).

This weekend I decided to make a cabinet for it using wood and sheet material I had laying around. I kept the cast wings for now because the T2 was attached to them and I didn't want to mess up the alignment i had done already. I built it out of 2x4s, 3/4" MDF and some 1/4" masonite paneling. This definitely isn't the ideal TS cabinet, but I had to make something fast.

I started with the frame:



Then I removed the saw from the Craftsman stand it was on and installed it in the cabinet:



Finally, after installing the MDF top and cutting it out to clear the splitter/guard (sorry about the blurry picture):



I still have to put the 1/4" masonite back on it,but here is a shot of the back. The motor is enclosed by the cabinet, and the center section at the bottom is where the dust collector will hook up to:



Tomorrow night I plan to build the outfeed table, which will fold up from the back. Also, I need to extend the miter slots onto the outfeed table and make a ZCI insert.

The only thing I need to do then is build a sled and I will be ready to build the kitchen cabinets.

Steve
 

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As the proud owner of perhaps the only other Craftsman 10" Flex drive saw with a T2 on this forum, I compliment you on your saw bench. :thumbsup:

I've often thought of making one for mine, but I need the space under the wing because that is where our lawn mower lives when I'm not sawing, or mowing.
 

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That looks real nice so far. I noticed you have it mobile as well. As a suggestion by what i see though, it might be a good idea to put another set of casters in the middle, as it might sag due to the width and weight from everything in the drawers. ( i am assuming there are going to be drawers in it as well.

Post photos of it completed want to see how it comes out
 

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Looks good! Im building something similar and will post pics when I do. Im hoping to start mine toward the end of the month. One tjing I noticed on yours is that it dosnt look like you left enough room flr the splitter to tilt with the blade. Also dosnt look like you cam get yoir splitter off to cut dados.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Looks good! Im building something similar and will post pics when I do. Im hoping to start mine toward the end of the month. One tjing I noticed on yours is that it dosnt look like you left enough room flr the splitter to tilt with the blade. Also dosnt look like you cam get yoir splitter off to cut dados.
The pictures don't show it clearly, but there is enough room for the splitter to tilt with the blade. I can also remove the splitter, as it is held in place with wing nuts and only has to slide back about 1/2" and then pulls straight up. I had these same two concerns you do and tried tilting and removing it just to be sure.

johnnie52: I thought about getting a different saw as most people don't care for the flex-drive but I figure I'll use it until the flex cable breaks or I want a better contractor's saw and then I can mod the top part of the cabinet to accomodate the new saw.

Manco247: I thought about adding a pair of extra casters in the center. Unfortunately the concrete floor in my shop (which was a small barn previously) is very uneven and its hard enough to find a spot where the 4 outside edge casters will be on the same level. The back of the cabinet has a 1/4" masonite cover attached so that side really can't sag in the middle. I'll be watching the front side to see if it starts sagging in the middle. I bought the 3" locking casters at Harbor Freight for $4 each. I am pushing their (overstated) max weight limit right now, but they seem to be working OK and the locking mechanism works good. Their better casters didn't have a locking feature, which is mandatory in this application, until the wheels got really big (too big for the cabinet).

Tonight I hope to have the outfeed table made and installed.

I also need a ZCI insert. We have a small shop at work with a mill, so I might try to make an aluminum one with replaceable wood insert. I saw a homemade one somewhere on the net and it looked good.

I used some ideas I found here on the forum, so thanks to everyone for sharing their ideas and projects.

Steve
 

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Gheesh. My last post was from my phone. Can you tell that fat fingers and a little touch screen keyboard dont work well together? lol.

Keep us posted with new pics as you get it finished up. Im still up in the air about how exactly I wanna make mine. I know on the far right end I wanna put a router table in. Im also considering buying a second Emerson saw and mounting them in side by side and using the left as a dedicated rip saw and the right as a dedicated cross cut. Either could be used for dado's. I was nosing around on CL yesterday and theres at least 10 likely candidates and one in particular thgat I think i can pick up for about 75 bucks if the guy would ever answer his phone. I would want to only have to have one fence though. I plan to use a T2. Care to measure your rails and tell me how long they are?
 

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This definitely isn't the ideal TS cabinet, but I had to make something fast.
Are you kidding? ... It's looking FANTASTIC !!!

I need to do the exact same thing for my Craftsman TS w/ T2 Fence - and now I'm thinking I may very well follow your lead.



Any chance you can share the dimensions of this masterpiece-in-progress? (i.e. base, top, sides, etc.).
Also . . . . .
- Are you using basic butt-joint joinery (w/ wood screws)?
- How many 2x4's do you think you're using?
- How many sheets of MDF and plywood?


:thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Any chance you can share the dimensions of this masterpiece-in-progress? (i.e. base, top, sides, etc.).
Also . . . . .
- Are you using basic butt-joint joinery (w/ wood screws)?
- How many 2x4's do you think you're using?
- How many sheets of MDF and plywood?


:thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
Thanks for the compliment!

I made the cabinet 72 inches long and 36 inches deep. It's 36 inches deep so the motor would be fully inside the cabinet and not stick out the back at all. This allows me to put an outfeed table on that can fold completely against the back without hitting the motor.

I wanted the table to be 36" high so I subtracted the height of the casters (3 3/4") from the 36" and got a height of 32 1/4" for the cabinet itself. The full-length and width shelf that the saw sits on is set at a height that makes the saw table 36" high.

Yes, I am using basic butt-joints with #9x3" deck screws. I tried to keep high-stress joints supported by short vertical 2x4s to keep the screws from doing the supporting. For example, the center shelf holding the saw is supported in all 4 corners by vertical 2x4s that it sits on. I added 2x4s running front to back (again supported by short vertical 2x4s to the base) directly under the sides of the metal saw box to keep this area from flexing. I intentionally made the saw itself sit slightly lower (1/4") than the MDF top because I could shim it up as needed to match the MDF top height. I found that my metal saw box was not consistant in height and varied about 1/8" front to back.

The bottom is a piece of 3/4" x 36" x 72" plywood. I didn't use MDF because the casters would put a lot of pressure on it and I felt plywood would hold up better. The saw shelf and the top is made of 3/4" MDF.

I think I used about 12 8' 2x4s.

The MDF all came from one 49" x 97" sheet. However, I will need more for the outfeed table.

I arbitrarily made the right side of the cabinet end even with the end of the T2 rail.

Tonight I added the outfeed table to the back. It's 49 inches wide and 22" deep. Here are two pictures so far:

Outfeed table up:



Outfeed table down:



The outfeed table hinges on a pair of 4" door hinges, which lets me pull the hinge pins and remove the outfeed table if needed. It's being held up temporarily with a piece of wood. I still need to make a folding angle support to hold it up. Then route a pair of miter slots to match the saw.

Bassblaster: The rails are 53 3/16" long. However, the front square tube that the fence rides on extends 4 9/16" past the end of the front rail on the right side.

Steve
 

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johnnie52: I thought about getting a different saw as most people don't care for the flex-drive but I figure I'll use it until the flex cable breaks or I want a better contractor's saw and then I can mod the top part of the cabinet to accomodate the new saw.
I thought the same thing 4 years ago. Since then I have cut pretty much every thing there is including that concrete board for bathroom walls and the cable is still going strong. Darn thing just won't quit! Best $70.00 I ever spent on a used tool. :laughing:

As far as support for the center goes, you could always use large bolts 3/4 to 1" dia.) to support the weight at the center if it becomes an issue. Then you would not need it get it level, just position the saw and screw the bolts down to hold the weight.
 

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Thanks. Thats very helpful. Those will be plenty long enough to span both saws since I dont plan to use any wongs and I plan to mount the rails as far right as possible since I dont need the fence left of the blade. Is the scale allready stuck to the tube when it comes oit of the package? Would it be possible to peel it off and put another one on?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Is the scale allready stuck to the tube when it comes oit of the package? Would it be possible to peel it off and put another one on?
Yes, the scale is already stuck onto the tube. I have seen other posts where people have peeled it off and they stuck it back on. The way I mounted mine, the scale is off about an inch so I have to reposition mine also. I will let you know how it goes.

Steve
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I thought the same thing 4 years ago. Since then I have cut pretty much every thing there is including that concrete board for bathroom walls and the cable is still going strong. Darn thing just won't quit! Best $70.00 I ever spent on a used tool. :laughing:
I bought my saw new back in the mid-1980s. It has broken the flex cable only once. The flex cable idea is actually pretty good as it eliminates movement of the motor. Probably has a limit to how strong the motor can be. In the early 60s Pontiac sold a Tempest with a rear transaxle that was connected to the engine with a big flex cable. Maybe we can use that to replace our flex cable if it breaks?:laughing:
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Here is a CAD drawing of the top:



The overall top is 36" deep x 72" wide.

The center section in black is the saw itself (the two miter slots are show).

The purple sections on each side are the cast iron wings.

The green parts are the rails and guide tube for the Delta T2.

The blue rectangles (3 of them) are the MDF sections that serve as the table extensions. Note that I had to leave 1/2" behind the rear T2 rail to allow me to drop the hook on the back of the fence over the rail.



Steve
 

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Are you planning on building in drawers or doors on the front - for storage or whatnot?
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Are you planning on building in drawers or doors on the front - for storage or whatnot?
Yes. I hope to install drawers for table saw accessories (blades, inserts, etc) and also to hold other power tool accessories and if there is room left maybe some small power tools (drills, sanders, etc) could be stored there.

For now I am not going to build drawers or doors because I have to move on to the kitchen cabinet build.

I also plan on installing a router to the right of the TS in the MDF panel.

I still have to rig up a support for the outfeed table and cut miter slots in the outfeed table (and the MDF behind the blade).

Steve
 

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I still have to rig up a support for the outfeed table and cut miter slots in the outfeed table (and the MDF behind the blade).

Steve
Will you be able to do so with the gap for the rear fence rail - not to mention the rail itself?


Also, might you be able to snap a few shots of your dust collection bin setup under the table saw?
 
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