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Hi all,
been lurking quite a while on here. Have now got a question. I recently acquired from a thrift store a Delta 34-445 Table saw with the uni-fence and table extension. I have finally got it set up in my shop, had to sell my Ryobi BT3100 to make room. I have made some quick checks there is virtually no run out on the arbor approx 001" to 0015". However when I checked to see if the miter slot was parallel to the blade I found 006" difference from front to back. Is this worth the adjustment to get it better. Also should I be thinking of upgrading the fence anytime soon?
Cheers
Ian
 

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where's my table saw?
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the Unifence is great

First of all you don't have to upgrade the fence, just adjust it. The .006 " is fine as it is in my opinion. There are large hexagonal shaped nuts on the front face of the fence carriage, which when turned in or out, change the angle the fence registers to the rail. Fon't even thing of changing out that fence... JMO. :no:

Just adjust the fence to be parallel to the miter slot, if it isn't now.

Then to complete the saw setup for accuracy, place a long, flat, straight and parallel bar against the blade and hold it in place with tape or magnets. This extends the "plane" of the blade front and back so measuring to the miter slot will be much more accurate.
The miter slot is the reference stande to align both the fence and the blade which is part of the arbor/carriage under the saw.
If the blade is not parallel to the slot after measuring as suggested above, then you need to adjust the carriage under the saw table.

Usually 3 bolts, maybe 4 retain the carriage and they can be loosened slightly so the carriage can be properly aligned. After loosening and tightening the bolts, recheck for parallel as the carriage might have shifted.
 
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My new Baileigh saw was about .006 out of parallel to the miter slots, and with my fence parallel to the slots I was getting the back of any board I cut nipped a little as it left the blade. I recommend getting the blade closer to parallel with the miter slots if you can. Once I had mine aligned the nip went away. If yours is out the other way, you'll see it in burns on the left waste trim.
 

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Really underground garage
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First off,congrats on your new saw.Make sure you do some reading on safety.

TS's and reaction wood don't mix.....use a bandsaw.Heck,TS's and a lot of things don't mix.But they are a must in just about any shop.

You can chase accuracy numbers until it numbs the brain.But if you aren't "managing" the cut/board then it's all for naught.Woodworking should never be "woodwrestling".So by managing as many other aspects of TS's operation/safety as possible....accuracy starts to play a slightly deminished role.Still want a good solid straight machine.....but your TS etiquette is probably more important.

I'd say a good soild outfeed table should be one of your first builds.Dosen't have to take up any rm.Look at some of the neat,fold-down kind.Or make an assembly table that dbls as an outfeed.Downdraft sander tables can be used.

Have fun,be safe.
 
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