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Bought this yesterday for $170. It's a delta Uni-Saw from 1948 based on the serial number. It didn't come with the fence or mitre gauge but has the fence rails.
Spent about an hour or so last night wet sanding the top with WD-40. Still not done but deffinitly looking better. It has the original 1HP motor than runs perfect!
 

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That's a great buy, and should make for an excellent refurb project. Those old repulsion/induction motors are said to run very strong per their horsepower rating. I'd guess it'll merit a fence upgrade, unless you want to keep it all original. Good luck, and please post some followup pics! :yes:
 

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Discussion Starter #3
knotscott said:
That's a great buy, and should make for an excellent refurb project. Those old repulsion/induction motors are said to run very strong per their horsepower rating. I'd guess it'll merit a fence upgrade, unless you want to keep it all original. Good luck, and please post some followup pics! :yes:
Thanks! I'm kinda on the "fence" on a few things. The motor sounds great, starts fast, and it's deffinitly strong. But it's 65 years old. I'm not changing that untill I'm forced too. It's a cool looking motor.

As far as the fence, I don't really know. What do you think? I looked quickly on eBay for the original fence and found a few from $100 to maybe $150. But a nice new decently priced fence isn't much more and will most likely be more accurate.
 

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That saw is already a real beauty and will only get better as you continue to work on it. A great deal! Way to go!
 

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That's a real beauty in my opinion. If it was mine I would clean it up and find the original fence. If you have all the doors and motor cover that is a real find. Congrats.
 

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Thanks! I'm kinda on the "fence" on a few things. The motor sounds great, starts fast, and it's deffinitly strong. But it's 65 years old. I'm not changing that untill I'm forced too. It's a cool looking motor.

As far as the fence, I don't really know. What do you think? I looked quickly on eBay for the original fence and found a few from $100 to maybe $150. But a nice new decently priced fence isn't much more and will most likely be more accurate.
A Delta T2 is a good bang for the buck at ~ $180 shipped from Tool BaRn. The Unifence and Biesemeyer are nicer yet, but cost more. Anyone know if the T2 is a direct bolt on to an old Uni?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks guys! I got a little more work done on the table surface today. I wet sanded again with 220 and WD-40. It cleaned up noticeably more. The picture really dosent show it good. It looks dirty and still kinda rusty but it's as smooth as glass.

I don't think in going to touch the cabinet or base. It's actually in pretty nice shape. There's minimal rust. Just enough to show it's age.
 

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I wouldn't bother with the old fence. Put the rails on eBay to offset the cost of a Biesemyer 52". You can make the table and add a large drawer under it. The Delta T is a good fence but putting it on a Unisaw is tantamount to a Camaro with a 6 cylinder.

Al

Nails only hold themselves.
 

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check this site for this part: delta splitter: 1349941S

http://www.sawcenter.com/unisawparts.htm

the sawcenter guys know unisaws inside and out. great service and very informative, but not inexpensive.

enjoy your unisaw. add a motor cover if you want to have any chance at even remotely effective dust collection. here's what i added to the one i refurbished and eventually sold (not a fan of right tilts):
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Al B Thayer said:
I wouldn't bother with the old fence. Put the rails on eBay to offset the cost of a Biesemyer 52". You can make the table and add a large drawer under it. The Delta T is a good fence but putting it on a Unisaw is tantamount to a Camaro with a 6 cylinder. Al Nails only hold themselves.
Do you know roughly how much that is? I hate looking things up on my phone. I plan on making a nice out feed table on one side and off
The back. What's the best surface for this? Would like a hardboard from HD work? Or a 1/4" plastic sheet ? It will get used as a work bench too sorta.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
toolguy1000 said:
check this site for this part: delta splitter: 1349941S http://www.sawcenter.com/unisawparts.htm the sawcenter guys know unisaws inside and out. great service and very informative, but not inexpensive. enjoy your unisaw. add a motor cover if you want to have any chance at even remotely effective dust collection. here's what i added to the one i refurbished and eventually sold (not a fan of right tilts):
Thanks for the link. I was looking at the big hole in the side today and wondered about the dust collection. How did you attach that? I don't really want to make new holes in the saw if I can help it.
 

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Here's a picture of my portable saw. All holes are taped up with blue masking tape. Over the motor, I built a wooden box to hold a 12x12 furnace filter for intake. It all works fine, and almost all dust is sucked up.

Outfeed table, to be light, is 3/4 Birch ply, Formica on top, kept straight with aluminum angles underneath, and legs 2x2 YP with adjustable height feet, and lightweight braces. It clamps onto the back Biesmeyer angle rail with a couple of DeStaco toggle clamps.
 

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BigJoe16 said:
Do you know roughly how much that is? I hate looking things up on my phone. I plan on making a nice out feed table on one side and off
The back. What's the best surface for this? Would like a hardboard from HD work? Or a 1/4" plastic sheet ? It will get used as a work bench too sorta.
The fence system must be around $500-$600. If you know anything about working with metal. They can be shop built for less than $200. I bought one but after I saw how simple it was made. I built the next two.

Welcome to the Unisaw world of woodworking.

Al

Nails only hold themselves.
 

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Tom King said:
Here's a picture of my portable saw. All holes are taped up with blue masking tape. Over the motor, I built a wooden box to hold a 12x12 furnace filter for intake. It all works fine, and almost all dust is sucked up.

Outfeed table, to be light, is 3/4 Birch ply, Formica on top, kept straight with aluminum angles underneath, and legs 2x2 YP with adjustable height feet, and lightweight braces. It clamps onto the back Biesmeyer angle rail with a couple of DeStaco toggle clamps.
Kinda tough tilting the blade with all that blue tape.

Al

Nails only hold themselves.
 

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The blue tape pulls off easy enough, and more goes back on after the few times we ever tilt the blade on that saw. It only needs to come off the curved slot. That's the good thing about the blue masking tape, it releases cleanly for a long time when used inside.

If I leave it off that slot, dust comes out there. Air can only get in through the filter, and down the blade slot.
 

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Thanks for the link. I was looking at the big hole in the side today and wondered about the dust collection. How did you attach that? I don't really want to make new holes in the saw if I can help it.
i NEVER make new holes in any of my machines when attaching accessories or modifications. i made a frame out of 3/4" plywood and used the existing through holes in the saw cabinet to mount the frame to the cabinet. the actual cover was made from 1/2" MDF as a simple box with hinges that attach the MDF box to the plywood frame. the door catch is a double hung window sash lock.
 

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That's a great buy you got! You have the original switch, dust door, lock knobs and all. Good luck with it, it's a great saw!

The RI motors are a subject in themselves. They do have some contacts to be cleaned up occasionally but are reliable old power plants.

Good luck with the saw! You can replace the fence with a Jet Lock type but a newer T2, Unifence or Biesemeyer will be more accurate and easier to use. I put a Unifence on mine to keep things in the family. It's heavy and clunky but accurate.

Bill
 
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