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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hello. I'm wanting to spend between $500-$1000 on a table saw. I would love some suggestions. I've also been looking on craigslist for something used...found a turner walker for $750. In this price range would I be better off getting an older saw used or a new saw? I mostly build simple furniture, tables, bookcases etc.
 

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That sure is a beautifully maintained saw, but $750 seems high for something with no mobile base, no riving knife/splitter, and either no fence or an old fence (I don't see one in the pics). I'll defer to the experts though, who should be along eventually.

Also, if it were me and I had time to wait for a good saw/deal, I'd go used. If you're not pressed for time, you'll get much more tool for your $$.
 

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Sawdust Creator
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Way too much. I'd pay 500 if it had a bisermeyer fence and was in good shape.

For 750...I'd pony up a few hundred more and buy new.
 

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ryan50hrl said:
Way too much. I'd pay 500 if it had a bisermeyer fence and was in good shape. For 750...I'd pony up a few hundred more and buy new.
Any suggestions on a new saw?
 

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Any suggestions on a new saw?

I have this one.....and would buy another in a heartbeat. The granite top never rusts....which is a big plus for me. Its 999.99 right now. has a great bisermeyer clone fence, an included outfeed table...and it comes with a surprisingly good miter gauge

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-prof...p-00922116000P?prdNo=1&blockNo=1&blockType=G1

The saw is built by steel city...who also has a version.....but easier to see and touch is the craftsman pro model.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
ryan50hrl said:
I have this one.....and would buy another in a heartbeat. The granite top never rusts....which is a big plus for me. Its 999.99 right now. has a great bisermeyer clone fence, an included outfeed table...and it comes with a surprisingly good miter gauge http://www.sears.com/craftsman-professional-1-3-4-hp-premium-hybrid-10inch/p-00922116000P?prdNo=1&blockNo=1&blockType=G1 The saw is built by steel city...who also has a version.....but easier to see and touch is the craftsman pro model.
Any reason to buy the steel city version?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Ive been working in a garage with a ryobi portable table saw. I'm about to have a shop and am ready for a cabinet saw with more power and accuracy. 1hp not enough. What is?
 

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Sawdust Creator
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Anyone who thinks a granite top isn't durable hasn't used one. I beat the heck out if it and have had zero problems. I use the top as my main bench, I pound on stuff all the time on it. The top is 1.75 inch thick granite.....if you find a way to break it, your probably doing something that you had no business doing on top of a table saw to begin with.


Oh....and if you think the cast iron in a top is super sturdy....go take a ball pien and swing right in the middle of your cast iron top.....cast iron is pretty brittle too.
 

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Dandan111 said:
Ryan. Tell us about that craftsman top, you like it? Durable? Sure looks nice.
I love it....no rust...flat as can be.....glue peels right off...
 

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michaelpugh said:
Any reason to buy the steel city version?
Unless you find a bargain at a local dealer....and the dealer network isn't huge, the craftsman is probably cheaper.

A few differences.....

The craftsman top is made like most saws....a center section with two wings, the steel city is a solid piece. I like the option of having the wings removed for transport but that's just me.

The craftsman needs a mobile base purchased separately if you want one (90 bucks)....the steel city has one built in.
 

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Scotty D
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Oh....and if you think the cast iron in a top is super sturdy....go take a ball pien and swing right in the middle of your cast iron top.....cast iron is pretty brittle too.
I'll do it.... if you will?!

I've worked with a lot of granite.


How bout we just drop your granite top onto my cast iron top and watch your granite splatter! Or, we could do the reverse and still watch your granite splatter.

Actually, if you would be interested in proving your point we could drop known weights from suspended heights and see who's fails first.

I would be willing to go first and all you would have to do is follow with the same weight.

Care to put your money where your mouth is? :smile:
 

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Easy fella's..no need to ruin at least 1 nice table saw. I think the granite/cast iron debate basically boils down to personal preference. each has there advantages and drawbacks.

Ive had an R4511 with the granite top, and my only complaint with it was that if your using an unheated space than try to heat it, your saw top sweats until it adapts to the temp change. (ok the particular saw was a POS but that's a side deal). Waiting for it to acclimate does beat having to go through the rust removal procedure with the cast iron.
 

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Why would I do that??? I know the abuse that a typical shop exibits isn't going to break the top.......why would I push it to the breaking point??

I'm not saying that you can't break it....i'm saying its not going to break easily.....just like a cast iron top isn't going to break easily but can break.
 

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I have a granite slabe (18x18x3) that I received recently that I am using as a flat reference for glue ups. My latest project required several glue ups and the squeeze out actually stuck to the granite and did not simply peel off. Are you treating it with something first? I used a scratch pad and soapy water to get it off but it definitely did not peel right off.

In the future I am going to use parchment paper to lay down on the granite first.
 

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I waxed the top a few times. And then from there it peels off pretty easy. I rewax every few months.
 
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