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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey Everyone -

I've never posted here before, but I did a lot of research here before buying a replacement for my beloved cast iron Ridgid table saw. It had served me well through a major renovation, but now that the project is complete, I wanted something I could more easily tuck out of the way.

I'd narrowed it down to the Ridgid 2410LS and the Bosch 4100, and was leaning toward the Bosch when I dropped in at my local Home Depot. The Ridgid rep happened to be there on a Saturday (unusual) and asked me to wait a sec while he ran to the storage/receiving area at the back of the store.

A few minutes later, he returned, all smiles, pushing a cart on which sat what looked like a 2410LS box. I didn't get what he was so happy about -- there were a couple 2410s already on the floor.

"Look again," he said. "These just came in."

So I examined the box a bit more closely and saw that this was, indeed, a NEW version of Ridgid's well-reviewed 24XX portable saw. And WOW - it looks like they've addressed just about every issue I had with the saw, and then some.

The R4510 is superficially very similar to the 2410LS - but now has the safety features that made many people give the nod to the Bosch in head-to-head comparisons. There are a few major changes:

Completely redesigned splitter/guard - now has a removable riving knife that can be set to two different heights and a split blade guard for bevel cuts.

Relocated power switch - many people complained about having to "hunt" for the switch - it's now a bit bigger and located so you can bump it with your thigh without taking your hands or eyes off your work.

Tool-less table insert - FINALLY! It wasn't a huge deal, but it sure is nice, not having to hut around for a screwdriver every time I switch blades.

Tool storage is still great and now includes a push stick that stores next to the miter gauge.

Unfortunately, the table I received must have been a "Monday" saw. The fence rails were so far off, the fence was hitting the extendable side table and rubbing across the surface of the table. It took over an hour to get them level-ish -- I say "ish" because it wasn't possible to get a consistent clearance across the table, as it seems there's a slight crown the to table top on the right side. I don't know how flat these cast-aluminum tables are supposed to be -- I may be spoiled by my experiences with the cast iron model -- but I don't think a 24" level should "rock" ANYWHERE on the table. Finally -- and again, I may be spoiled by the smooth, quiet operation of the belt-drive Ridgid -- the soft-start motor didn't sound so great at first. It sounded a little "gravelly" on startup and there's a visible wobble to the arbor.

You'd think that all these flaws would turn me off to the saw completely, but I've owned several Ridgid tools (table saw, thickness planer, drill press, jointer/planer, as well as cordless tools galore) and have always been very pleased with their quality in the past -- I'm hoping this is an aberration, rather than representative of their current quality standards.

I've already spoken with the Ridgid rep and he says that as soon as some more 4510s come in, I can swap out the saw, no problem. So I'm not too worried about it.

In the meantime, he urged me to beat the hell out of this one. I'm building 120' fence with a semi-complicated design requiring a bunch of dadoes -- a lot of cuts, but nothing that requires cabinets saw accuracy or cut quality. I've run a pile of lumber through it and have been pleased so far; I've ripped a couple of 4x8 sheets, done a load of 3/4 dado cuts and ripped a bunch of 2Xs and am very impressed with the motor's power, the accuracy of the fence, and the overall usability of the saw.

I've already made a simple router table attachment that drops into the space created when you extend the table, a bunch of fingerboards, a couple of jigs and table inserts (zero clearance and dado). The slotted table and fence are must-haves for the way I like to work and (fingers crossed) once I get a unit that isn't such a POS, I'm confident that this saw will do just about anything I could ask of it. I haven't put together a good outfeed support or thrown any bevels at it yet -- those tests will decide whether or not I can really consider this a viable alternative to a hybrid or cabinet saw.

But so far, I'm pretty pleased with the saw overall and LOVE how easy it is to move around and store.

Oh - I almost forgot - I got a heckuva deal on this sucker. Turns out Home Depot will honor HARBOR FREIGHT coupons, too! I get an email coupon from HF just about every week, offering 20% off any single item. That brought the price down from $499 to $400. And when I bought this last week, HD was offering a $75 instant rebate for tool purchases of $300-600 or so, so I ended up paying just $325!!

(Actually, they didn't want to "stack" the discounts at first, but I talked to a manager and pointed out that the terms of the rebate didn't say anything about "not valid with any other discount", so he overrode the computer and gave me both deals. Might have had something to do with all the lumber I'd bought that week (with a Lowes 10% coupon!), or maybe he was just being cool.).

Here are some pics of the saw -- I haven't seen anything anywhere on the web about this model, and I thought you might like to see the changes:























Hope this is helpful to someone.
 

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Welcome to WWT! Looks like a nice portable. Nice in depth review. I'd suggest putting a real blade on it before you do any fine woodworking. Good luck! :thumbsup:
 

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I'd like to look at them but our HD stores have gotten to where they don't stock the larger power tools anymore. Seems to me they are defaulting to Lowes and other tool stores.
 

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Senior Member KE4TQP
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Is Ridgid still giving a lifetime warranty?

Now as far as trading saws goes. How are you going to do that with the rep out of sight.
Did he talk to the manager there?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Lifetime warranty still good, AFAIK.

Julian - strange, I hadn't heard anything about that. It's still on the Ridgid website and there was a lifetime warranty card inside the box, so as far as I can tell, Ridgid is still covering all handheld power tools and *most*, if not all, of the stationary woodworking stuff.

And with regard to the Ridgid rep - maybe this is a special thing in the HD I go to, but the rep is pretty much a permanent fixture there. He reps Milwaukee, Ridgid and Ryobi (all made/distributed by the same parent company, as I understand it) and is there M-F (and is testing out weekends, too). So no prob doing the swap. He said he'd probably just use the saw I bring back as the floor model, since they drill holes in it all over the place to keep the accessories from walking off....
 

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Those are some great pics, thanks for posting them.

I have the Bosch 4100 and I love it. HOWEVER, when I replace it, I think I'm going to go with something with a cast iron top (if there are any still around by then heh) I'd say aluminum is 95% good enough, but like you said, seems like it doesn't get as consistently flat as cast-iron tools. Just my 2cents of course.
 

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Ridgid R4510

Hey Lost, I too purchased a Ridgid R4510 contractors tablesaw and I am very pleased with the one I purchased however, after noticing in the owners manual it had said to use stacked 6 inch dado blades but, I have heard others are using the 8 inch stacked blades with no problem,what do you think? also,can you tell me where I could find a dado throat plate for this saw? I called Ridgid and their tech support gave me the number of their distrubtor who in turn told me that they did not have a throat plate but had some on order but they did not get a ETA form their supplier, I am at a lost here. Would it be possible for you to tell me how you build a dado throat plate or where to buy one for this model of saw? I have looked at several places online and with the measurements of the original throat plate some come close but almost always the thickness is way to thick. Any help would be greatly apprecieated. Thanks, RONAVISH
P.S. If you or other members have any ideas you all can also email me at: [email protected]
Again, Thank you.:blink:
 

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RAM Man
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If the Owners Manual says to only use a 6" dado set then I think that's what you should use. I don't know for sure what the reason is that RIDGID says to only use a 6" set but usually it's a clearance issue. Using an 8" set could lead to a very dangerous situation.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I use an 8" set, no prob.

You know, I never even looked at the manual - I've been using m y Freud 8" stacked dado set with no problems at all.

I think they recommend a 6" set because the lever that locks/releases the splitter would hit the blades in an 8" set when it's in the 'locked' position. I remove the splitter for dadoes anyway and just leave the lever in the 'up' or 'unlocked' position, and it works just fine. The lever turns on a spring-loaded cam thingy that makes it want to be in the up or down position and prevents it from falling on its own (into the blade, which would be ugly if it were to happen, I suppose).

Making a throat plate is pretty easy - there are about a zillion articles out there and even some videos. Rather than searching for 'dado insert', look for 'DIY zero clearance insert' and you'll get plenty of links.

As far as materials go, Rockler and others sell phenolic and other nifty, flat and slippery stocks for making inserts, but you can use just about anything that's the right thickness (or can be planed down). I've used polyethylene cutting boards (a favorite -- very slick, easy to work with, and cheap when purchased at WalMart or the like - NOT Williams-Sonoma!), leftover pre-finished Maple hardwood flooring, 3/8 plywood, depending on what I have laying around and whether I want the insert to be a "permanent" accessory.

There are a lot of ways to copy the plate - a quick n dirty way to go is to trace the plate onto a piece of stock, rip it to width, remove some of the end material with a few rough passes on the saw, then smooth out the curve with a sander - I use a portable porter cable belt sander laid on its side and clamped to the table. I shoot for a snug fit rather than dealing with clips, clamps, whatever to hold the insert in place, sanding and test-fitting until the insert requires a bit of pressure in to the recess in the table.

For a "nicer" (but equally functional) insert, most people seem to recommend using a router with a pattern cutting bit (like a laminate trim bit, but with the bearing near the collet, rather than at the end of the bit).

Personally, I prefer to make a template when I get a new saw (haven't done it yet, though). I take the stock plate and screw it down to a hunk of 1/4" hardboard, then put a 1/4"-1/2" plunge bit in my router, and simply run the router around the plate. Then, whenever I need a new insert, I just use the same bit size and run the router around the inside of the template. (Don't forget to clamp/screw both inside and outside the cut.)

I don't like to mess around with the plate leveling screw on the saw a whole bunch, so I try to make my plates match the thickness of the recess, then drill out a small hole in the back of the plate to accommodate the screw in the table.

To customize the insert for your use, lower your blade/set all the way down, pop in your insert, then lock your rip fence in place over the insert (but NOT over the blade) to hold it down as you power up and slowly raise the blade through the material.

Hope that helps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Update & router table insert info

I swapped out my saw this week - no problems, I didn't even have to wait or do any paperwork - they just took the old saw gave me a new one. This saw is MUCH BETTER. Don't know if I was unlucky last time or lucky this time, but I'm guessing that I just got a bad unit the first time out. I've owned a lot of Ridgid stuff over the years and have always been impressed with their quality and value.

Alignment was pretty darned close right out of the box - the fence needed to be tightened and squared just a little bit and I had to make a slight adjustment to the fence rails, but that's about it. The table top is flat, the motor quiet and happy, and the arbor is well-balanced - I don't have a tool to check actual runout, but it looks good and cuts beautifully.

The first saw must've had something *really* weird with the arbor, because in addition to being quieter and better-balanced, I have more arbor to work with on this saw. Weird. Likewise, the seriously-out-of-whack table/rails on the first saw -- this saw feels much "tighter" -- I actually had to shave a bit off my router insert because it wouldn't fit in this table!

One thing that did bug me, though, is that this saw's top, like the last one, had handprints on it, right out of the box. A little thing, but it's something Ridgid should work on to improve the initial out-of-box experience.

Anyway, I'm happy. A very nice saw that's easy to relocate, transport and store -- and with the right coupons, etc, it's a really excellent value.

As for my router table insert - keep in mind that this really is a quick and dirty design – I had to have *something*, so I threw it together in about an hour with stuff I had laying around. It’s just uncoated MDF right now – not even a laminate top or a coat of poly. I'll likely rebuild it and add some angle iron stiffeners to the bottom - the narrow width in relation to the hole/plate size makes it prone to sagging a bit -- maybe 1/32" in 3 weeks, but that's enough to bug me.

I didn’t have my camera handy so I’ve drawn up the essential details in Sketchup. You can take the measurements off your own table and will likely need to monkey around a litttle to find what works for you as shims/locks, depending on the alignment of your table and rails. I used one L bracket in each corner on the back of the table and stacked two on each side on the front (the pivot-y ones) and got everything perfectly level. Your results will almost certainly vary, but you can see the basic concept.With a little more thought and a visit to the Reid Tool Supply website, I could probably rig up an adjustable leveler of some sort -- I have a couple of ideas that I think would work quite nicely, but aren't really necessary for personal use. Once you have it dialed-in, there's no reason to adjust it.

Hope you can see this image – you’ll probably have to right click and save it or open it in a new window to see and read everything.

 

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hey guys, I am looking to purchase this table saw... do any of you guys have an idea when most Home Depot's will get this saw? I have called most of my local HD's and not one said they have it. Non have even heard of it :laughing:

also, to the op, how do you like the saw now that you have had it for a while now? I am deciding between this saw and the bosch 4100, and am leaning to the bosch simply because I can't find this saw anywhere...
Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
KK - I've been very happy with the saw so far - I wish I had some experience with the Bosch, but I've only seen it in the stores. If $ is no object, I think the DRO-fence is a nice option, if it's accurate. With the improvements Ridgid has made in this model, I don't see a reason to pay the extra $100 for the Bosch, personally. Some say that the motor is quieter on the Bosch, which might be nice -- but the Ridgid isn't as much of a screamer as some direct drive saws I've used. It was a little annoying at first, since my last saw was a 3650, but I've grown accustomed to it.

Good luck!
 

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Lostin, did you get my pm? Are you in Los Angeles or Louisiana? If you are in LA, which store did you get it from? I can't find a single store that has it...

also, the table is obviously larger on the ridgid as well right? That might be a huge advantage... Thanks for the info btw!
 

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Appears to be great saw. I got the Bosch 4000 a few years ago and love it and I'm sure you will like the Rigid too. How is it holding it's calibration?
 
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