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New project for a novice

3K views 24 replies 10 participants last post by  cabinetman 
#1 ·
I hope I'm not biting off more than I can chew, but I'm about to attempt a media center for a room off of the kitchen. Here's a link to my inspiration (www.houzz.com/photos/568035/Traditi...l-Crown-Molding-traditional-bedroom-san-diego)

I've got a table saw, mitre saw, a pneumatic brad nailer, oscillating sander, and a bunch of various other hand and power tools. I'm pretty handy, but this will be my first attempt at a "furniture" grade project.

It seems pretty straight forward to my untrained eye, no tricky exposed joints. But what advice would you offer?

Is there a valid excuse to get a new tool that would greatly increase my chance of success? Is there a particular method I should practice before getting started?

Thanks for any input or advice!
 
#2 · (Edited)
new tool?

Unless you have a generous sized outfeed table for your table saw, I would recommend a track saw for breaking down the plywood I assume you will be using.
Grizzly, Dewalt, Makita and last, but most expensive is Festool.
I have used a good straight edge or a ripping guide set up to match mycircular saw for exact cuts without measuring for the saw base offset. Saw horses and a piece of 2" thick styrofoam make a good working platform and you can cut into the foam with no issues.



Clamps and more clamps...... :thumbsup:

A fine tooth blade for any saw you will use.

A router guide for making rabbets for shelves:

 
#7 · (Edited)
depends on the size of the panels

I would not want to make shelf dados in a 18" wide/deep X 7 ft tall/long side support on the table saw..... :thumbdown:

It's easier to move the smaller tool than the larger workpiece in most instances. A router in a gude is the best way for larger panels in my opinion and I've done it both ways. You need a large miter gauge with a extended fence for the table saw,. Not so with the hand held router and a guide.
I have also used a RAS and a dado head for shelves up to 12" wide with good results.
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f27/shelf-spacing-made-simple-using-ras-47095/

on the router table:
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f27/routing-dadoes-shelves-router-table-51237/
 
#8 ·
I'd definitely go with a router for the dado's. Much safer for large panels, a jig can be made to adjust the width of the dado to the stock you have in hand, and IMO anyway, a much cleaner dado unless you have a very hi $$ stack. :smile:
 
#9 · (Edited)
I have a "hi $$ stack" dado blade but when I need a bookcase or built in using dado cuts, I always refer back to my router. I have a spacer block set for 3/4" dado cuts. All I do is place the spacer block on the line of my desired cut, butt and clamp my guide (edge) against it and route it. Unlike the ts, the router doesn't need support and the router will give you a flat bottom like no ts dado blade will offer. The wood with blue tape is my spacer block. I will place it on my next cut.
 

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#10 ·
BernieL said:
I have a "hi $$ stack" dado blade but when I need a bookcase or built in using dado cuts, I always refer back to my router. I have a spacer block set for 3/4" dado cuts. All I do is place the spacer block on the line of my desired cut, butt and clamp my guide (edge) against it and route it. Unlike the ts, the router doesn't need support and the router will give you a flat bottom like no ts dado blade will offer. The wood with blue tape is my spacer block. I will place it on my next cut.
BernieL - this is why I love this forum! I've never done Dadoes with my router. In part, cause I'm intimidated by using a hand held router, plus the math involved in getting the cut in the right spot. However, seeing your incredibly simple spacer block makes me think I can do this in the future.
 
#15 ·
Masterjer - note the block is cut for a 3/4" bit. A 1/2" bit changes the distance from the edge of the bit to the edge of the router so a different block is needed for each size bit. Like everyone else on this site - glad to help when we can.
 
#16 ·
issues with same width bits



When ever I've tried to make a dado using the exact same width bit as my shelf material I have to REALLY concentrate on keeping the router base hard against the guide, or else I get a divot along the way. Sometimes I have to regrip the router or take a step forward and that's usually when it happens. I prefer a smaller bit used in a capture guide for that reason. No matter, that's just me. If it works for you.... it's much more simple than the guide bushing and special guides, go for it!
It's worth mentioning here that plywood these days is NOT 3/4" any longer and you need a special width bit in 23/32" for 3/4" plywood like these:
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=17852
 
#17 ·
Good input Woodnthings... plywood is not 3/4 and it's great that you pointed that out, but my shelving has been solid wood so I forgot to mention the ply thickness. I do know what you are saying about the bit jumping out but since I did up my workbench, this process has been much easier to accomplish because my fence is also my clamp. I can put as much pressure as I can. Pictured above is stacked shelving in solid wood I made to hide a support beam in my remodeled kitchen
 

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#18 ·
Woodnthings has hit a home run on why this forum is so great.

First - he mentions something I know but forgot to mention because of my recent experiences... the ply measurements are off - 3/4 ply is not 3/4! If folks were to follow my above advise, they wou;d have a 32/inch gap.

It's also great he mentioned the router jumping away from the line because it does happen. Besides my unique workbench's capabilities and my working habits, I almost forgot to mention that potential disastrous result of the routers. Woodnthings - you are a true gentleman for saying folks do things differently and are both successfully achieving the same successful results. You made me think of what I do automatically and how I omitted to mention the fact that while routing dado cuts, I gradually achieve my goals. I make multiple passes, the 1st being about a 1/4" deep pass. A 1/4" pass is easier to control and once this is done, the router will follow the path of least resistance. Thanks to you Woodnthings!
 
#19 · (Edited)

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#25 ·
I don't know hat to say after all that....:smile:
Except to post a link to my Radial Arm Router mod :
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/members/woodnthings-7194/albums/ras-router-modification/



I haven't used it yet to make shelf dados, but it should work just fine.
It may work just fine if there is absolutely no play in any of he connecting points...from the bottom of the router base to the bottom of the column. The problem with doing bevel routing is the base of the frame for the router, being in the way. The tilting router bases I have for handheld routers allows the router to rotate, while the baseplate remains flat.
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#20 ·
I prefer to do dadoes with a router. If done on a TS with a stack set, the face of the stock is down. With that, you can't see what you're doing, and the face gets slid on the table saw, which could mark it up. Saw teeth entering the face don't leave a very clean cut, and the stack set doesn't leave a very clean bottom, like a router bit would.

There's also some physics involved. Doing dadoes on the TS requires to hold down the stock flat to the table, and guide it firmly against the fence. With some material and sizes that isn't all that easy to do.

I use a handheld router, and a "T" square type straightedge (shop made), that's a fast quick setup. Much less of a hassle than a TS, and a lot more accurate.







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#23 ·
Chowdah said:
So, I get the part about using a router and guide for the shelves; seems almost unanimous. But the question I'm left with is, what the hell DOES anybody use a dado blade for on a table saw?
Not every dado is 3/4" wide. Special dado jobs are better done on the TS. Small projects would be one example. Odd dado width is another. It just depends on what you are going, your skill level, tools you have, and personal preference. Please don't think there is only one way of doing something. With woodworking, there are normally several ways you can get a job done and all of them are correct. Don't go out and buy a tool for a job if you only plan on using it once. Rent it. Become familiar with a tool before you use it on a big job. It's just that a lot of people are comfortable using a router for shelves. It is easier to control a router on a large piece of wood than it is to control a large piece of wood on a TS.

Sent from my iPhone using Wood Forum
 
#24 ·
rabbets?

It's useful for smaller pieces and hogging out for half laps. Also for making tenons. Long dados and rabbets are easy with a sacrificial fence on the table saw. Router tables have taken the place of rabbetting operations on the table saw to a great extent.:smile:
 
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