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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just got my new PM-V11 blade for my SB #7, it is a Type 6. I'm going to have to file the mouth open to be able to use this thicker blade.

I was just wondering if this is pretty standard when getting new blades that are thicker?

Does this vary by plane? Or vary by type?

Not a big deal, I was just wondering if I get replacement blades for other planes will I have to file them as well?
 

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I have a PM-V11 blade installed in a Stanley No. 5, not recalling the type, but not as old as your No. 7 type 6.

My No. 5 has the larger adjustment wheel "STANLEY" embossed in the lever cap, but not painted,

The PM-V11 blade was an easy fit for me, perhaps I got lucky.

I have a couple of Veritas new replacement blades in some other vintage Stanleys, I think a No. 4 and No.5. The thicker blades were not a problem.
 

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It is far more often the case that the mouth will have to be filed, in my experience.
I have set many planes up for others and had to do this. Of my couple of hundred hand planes, I have aftermarket blades in only about 10 or 12. All but one needed to be opened up.

The best method I have found in to use a marker or machinists dye (dykem blue) and paint the area in front of the mouth. This would be the area nearest the front knob.
Now, using a square, strike a line in the dye, just ahead of the existing opening.
I like to clamp the plane body in a vise (don't overtighten!) and angle it, so that with the file parallel to the floor, I am filing a slight bevel into the mouth. The newly filed "wall" should open ever so slightly into the interior of the casting.

If you don't have a file with safe edges, either tape the edges of your file or use care to avoid enlarging the width of the mouth.
Keep testing as you work to avoid making the mouth any larger than necessary.

A much more common problem with aftermarket blades is inadequate penetration of yoke lever into chipbreaker, as a result of the greater thickness of the replacement blade.
 

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Tim I don't know where you got you new iron from but further to what John says in his last paragraph.It is a recognized problem that the Y yoke is to small to make contact with the chip breaker (backing iron) and adjust the new thicker plane iron up and down. Many makers sell a new longer Y yoke to over come this problem.
I hope this is not the case with your plane, but if so contact with the manufacturer may solve the problem. Billy
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
I guess I didn't mention, but for those that don't know the designation PM-V11 is the name of the Veritas powdered metal blade.

Dave, it sounds like you are the lucky one in all of this - not having to do any filing on yours.:thumbsup:

When I bought the blade, all I was thinking of was the yoke lever, I didn't even think about the mouth opening.

Happy to say, the yoke is long enough and works fine. Also happy to know that longer ones are available if necessary. Thanks Billy.

Thanks for the filing tips John - esp. the safe edges - wouldn't even have thought of that.
 

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I'm having the same problem with new PM-V11 blades and chip breakers for older Ebay Stanly #3 and #5. I don't think I want to get that involved trying to make these work or just go for LN low angle jack to start learning woodworking. Which way would I be better off starting?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
If I were you, I'd work on the SB planes first, especially since you already have blade upgrades in hand. Not to mention you'll save yourself about $250 in exchange for a few minutes with a file.

I finally got some time to file my #7 yesterday. All told it took about 15 minutes to widen the mouth. I didn't have a file with safe edges, just took my time and was careful with the files I had. I had to start with a thin file as none of the "regular" thickness files would fit. I removed about 3/32" - may have to remove a tiny bit more, will see after I use it for a while.

Just a note. I ended up getting just the blade, I didn't get a new chip breaker. I don't know if you'd have to remove more with new chip breaker or not.
 
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