where's my table saw?
No, I never use a low blade. The gullets should show when ripping and be at least 1/4" or more above the work. A low blade may work OK on a crosscut, but I set the height so the gullets show there also.I wrote several responses, but let them die. I did understand your previous post, and I did see the part about the workpiece being trapped.
After thinking about it for several days, I believe that the fundamental difference between our points of view are our concepts of the blade forces at that first instant when the workpiece lifts up.
I concede that @woodnthings may be correct, but I'm still not 100% sure about it. (I reserve the right to say in the future, "the jury will disregard this post."
In my view, the direction of force from the back of the blade to the workpiece is mostly vertical at the start of the kickback. There is isn't a lot of horizontal force (yet) to eject the workpiece underneath the angled blade. As the workpiece lifts, it has to "get outa' there" but the workpiece must lift up more to reach the point where the curved blade is introducing sufficient horizontal force to eject the workpiece in a kickback.
With a bevel cut, the blade is raised more than a typical 90 degree rip cut. Whether that's enough to reduce the horizontal force such that there is a compression/pinching issue above the workpiece (at the start of the kickback) is an open question for me.
WOODNTHINGS' VIEW (FROM MY PERSPECTIVE):
I think that woodnthings is thinking about a lower blade, where the forces at the rear of the blade are much more towards the front of the saw, and much less upward than my point of view. Imagine a blade so low that the teeth are barely above the workpiece. Most of those forces want to push the workpiece towards the front of the saw, perhaps enough to eject the board out from under the trapping effect of the angled blade.
-> Woodnthings: Does that match your perspective? Does it help? Am I on track, or still missing something?
A high blade will tend to press the work down in front, but may also tend to lift it up at the rear. It all depends on the set of the teeth and the rake angle.
There is just no way to know what will happen unless a test is done of all the possibilities.
Rick Christopherson claims he has done this and nothing happens. I trust his opinion. but I still wouldn't trust my saw and blade in a "trapped" workpiece situation.
It's just not worth finding out and possibly having a bad result for me.
I would never use the tilted blade into/towards the fence, right tilt or left tilt, it wouldn't matter.